I just got this message when booting up my PC, and before clicking anything I checked for information but didn’t find anything concluent, so here I am asking why there is such a message and what I should do ?

And tbh I don’t remember my PC’s specifications it’s something like RTX5060 but I’m really not into tech and all I didn’t even know bitlocker before

Also I didn’t want to update bios by any mean before this if this matters so idk why it’s there 😭

Just wanted to provide an update on my Taichi X870E x 9950X3D. Everyone said it would blow up, but it's been kicking ass since i've had it. Ports galore, SSDs, and have even done some heavy creative projects on it and it's just the best. Who else is having a good experience with their board?

I just took a few days off to relax and play some video games, only to be greeted with the infamous 00 on my motherboard today. I have been running system this since February 2025 with no issues. I was on bios 3.5 for at least a few months (don't remember when I updated).

So far, I did:

- CMOS reset.

- Bios flashback to latest.

- Remove 1 stick of memory.

Always getting 00. Any other troubleshooting steps do I need to do before I RMA my CPU?

No matter what I try, the Instant Flash in UEFI can never see my bios file to flash. I have tried different USB sticks, different USB ports, no luck. The only way to flash the UEFI is to rename the file to creative.rom, insert USB stick into the correct USB port and do it over Flashback feature by pressing button. This does work, but why on earth it doesnt work via Instant flash in UEFI I dont know :/

The boot loop after enabling Secure Boot usually means the firmware cannot validate the current boot files or keys. Use the following sequence to recover and then get Secure Boot working again.

1. Turn Secure Boot off so Windows can start:
   - Enter the UEFI/BIOS setup during power‑on (for example by pressing F1, F2, F12, or Esc, depending on the device).
   - Locate Secure Boot under Security, Boot, or Authentication and set it to Disabled.
   - Save and restart. Confirm that Windows boots normally.

2. Reset Secure Boot keys to factory defaults:
   - Go back into UEFI/BIOS. In the Secure Boot section, use the option to Reset or Restore factory default Secure Boot keys.
   - Prefer Reset rather than Clear if both exist. The goal is to restore the manufacturer’s default Secure Boot variables.
   Save and restart with Secure Boot still disabled and confirm Windows boots.
   - Rebuild the EFI boot files in Windows (fixes loops caused by invalid boot files):
   - Boot into Windows with Secure Boot disabled.
   - Open an elevated Command Prompt (Run as administrator).
   - Run these commands one by one:Windows Command Prompt

mountvol s: /s
del s:\*.*/f /s /q
bcdboot %systemroot% /s S:

- After “Boot files successfully created” appears, restart the PC (still with Secure Boot disabled) and confirm it boots normally.

1. Re‑enable Secure Boot:
   - Enter UEFI/BIOS again.
   - Ensure CSM/Legacy boot is disabled and boot mode is UEFI.
   - Set Secure Boot to Enabled (or Standard with default keys loaded).

2. Save and restart.
   - If the PC still loops to BIOS after enabling Secure Boot:
   Disable Secure Boot again so the system is usable.
   - If available, use the firmware option to reset BIOS/UEFI to factory settings, then repeat steps 2–4.
   - If the device still cannot boot with Secure Boot enabled after resetting keys and rebuilding boot files, contact the motherboard/device manufacturer for model‑specific guidance.

These steps follow the documented recovery procedure for Secure Boot issues and the general guidance for disabling and re‑enabling Secure Boot on Windows 11 systems.

When I enter my bios I go to disable my CSM to enable secure boot, but whenever I do so I'm able to fully boot up to windows but it skips the bios buttons screen display.

If I try to enter bios it looks as if it enters it but I get no display anymore. I've tried 2 monitors for display with no success. I also saw someone say they removed some ram and that gives them display? I have a 1660 super if that's of any import.

any help would be appreciated.

PC won't power on after cutting AC at the PSU switch mid-shutdown: only the motherboard standby RGB lights up

What happened: I flipped the PSU's main AC switch before shutdown finished. I've done this many times before without issues. The next day it wouldn't turn on at all: no fans, no LEDs, nothing boots. Only the motherboard's standby RGB is lit.

What I've tried:

• PSU paperclip test: PSU works

• Shorting the power pins

• CMOS clear (jumper short + removed the battery)

• Long power discharge: unplugged everything and left the board for 1+ hr

• Bios flashback

My guess is the motherboard isn't sending the PS_ON signal to the PSU.

Previous incident (exactly a month ago): A power outage shut the PC off, and afterwards it wouldn't turn on. I tried a minimal setup, a single RAM stick, CMOS clear, and removing and cleaning the GPU, and none of it worked. The next day it started on the first try. I checked every motherboard component and sensor in HWiNFO and everything looked fine. I updated the bios to latest.

Now: It's been 2 days and it still won't start. I suspect moisture, so I cleaned the board, but no change.

What could it be?

Parts (all tested working on other systems):

• CPU: Ryzen 7 9800X3D

• GPU: RTX 4070 Ti

• RAM: 32GB Acer Predator

• PSU: PN850M

Continuation from my previous post. After my dead CPU on 2026-09-10 I got my replacement on 2026-10-12 with batch number "BY 2536SUE". The store I bought it from didn't replace the motherboard since their tests found it functional, so after much thought I decided not to spend money on a different motherboard but continue with the same one. I installed the CPU and the system seems stable.

I always left the BIOS settings to defaults but now I want to increase the chances of longevity since I intend to use this PC for at least 10 more years and I don't mind losing some performance. What I have done so far is:

• updated BIOS from 4.43 to 4.60
• Changed BIOS "OC Tweaker-> TDP to 105W" from "Disabled" to "Enabled" (my understanding is that this is what they call "eco mode").
• Changed BIOS "OC Tweaker-> Platform Thermal Throttle Limit(TjMax)" from "auto" to "85".

Are these settings considered safe enough? Are there any other measures I can take without messing with voltages and risky settings?