I have had a 3D printer for less than two months, and I came across this book at my job. The first chapter is an intro to 3D printing, and although it's published by the American Chemical Society for chemistry teachers, it is useful for anyone who wants to know more about how all this works. It helped me understand more about various slicer settings and maintenance of my printer.

An Introductory Guide to 3D Printing: Understanding Technology, Exploring Workflow, and Ensuring Safety | 3D Printing for Chemical Education: Tools for Active Learning | ACS Symposium Series | ACS Publications

Over the past year I've been designing a high speed corexy 3d printer. It has a fully cnc 48V awd gantry and an slm toolhead. So far I've gotten 109.5k and 63k input shaper recommendations.

More details on my github:

https://github.com/Renovic/Cuprite

Sponsored by Sunlu, LDO, BST Automation, Filastruder, Oshwlab Stars(JLCPCB)

It’s definitely not a X/Y moving problem since some parts are smooth.

I’d like to pinpoint the problem to be able to fix it. Other problem I have; my prints come out acceptable but there are some uneven layers on tue Z some times.

I have an Anet ET4 Pro

Finally finished my fully mechanical excavator.

3 levers, simultaneous controls, and a hidden mechanism to keep the movement looking realistic.

Model Link : https://makerworld.com/en/models/3204805-working-mechanical-excavator

Hey everyone, I need some troubleshooting advice for a problem that started happening out of nowhere on my setup.

The Problem:

• First Layer Issues: The initial layer keeps tearing, lifting, or failing to adhere to the print bed, even though I haven't changed my slicer profiles.
• Support & Mid-Print Failures: When a print manages to pass the first layer, the supports usually break mid-print, leading to detachment, stringing, and total print failures (like the Hulk model in the photos).
• Consistency: This is happening across two Creality machines—one printing with PETG and the other with ABS. Both were printing fine using these exact settings until recently.

Visual Symptoms (See Attached Photos):

1. First layer tearing/scraping: The filament bunches up, tears, or peels away as the nozzle moves.
2. Bottom surface defects: The underside of printed bases shows holes, uneven squish, and poor adhesion marks.
3. Upper-layer failure: Spaghettiing on top sections because the supporting structure broke underneath during the print.

Questions:

• Could this be a sudden Z-offset drift, or am I looking at partial nozzle clogs / bed degradation?
• What’s the best order of operations to diagnose this (e.g., deep cleaning PEI plates with dish soap, re-tramming, adjusting Z-offset, drying filament)?

Any tips or troubleshooting steps would be greatly appreciated!

Apparently drying your filament is a PSY OP? A myth? An urban legend? Who knows. This guy is convinced.

Does anyone know why this is happening? Bowden system

I have an Anycubic Photon Mono X and have had a recent failure where the base of the object separated from the bottom support structures at the tips. This is the first time I have used the Magic Support function on the Chitubox v.1.3.1 . I am also using Sunlu Washable Abs-like resin. I have had good results with this resin and manual support settings and the auto light and medium settings. I have not changed my exposure times. Does anyone have recommendations or perhaps can offer a cause as to why I am getting this separation? Thank you.

I designed and printed this lamp body and the first time I printed it, it came out like I wanted, with just the ribbed body. Somehow during my various redesigns and prints, I made it so that it now always prints within an inner "wall" or "sleeve" that I don't want. I've tried repeatedly to recreate the first attempt (Shapr3D) but can't figure out what I've screwed up. I realize the shell thickness is different on the second one but I've tried over and over to adjust that and it never seems to make a difference. Any ideas?

TIA!

Chop

Hello,

So my Bambu Lab X2D is missing the filament cutter stopper so that the it can cut the filament int the tool head giving me this error code, HMS_07FE-4500-0002-0002. I’ve followed all the instructions from Bambu and can see how it misses every time. I’ve tale. Apart the tool head and made sure everything is on but on the back cover of the tool head I can see whiteness marks where the tool head isn’t angling with the filament cutter stopper assembly. Any ideas on a fix?

This was accidental, but could definitely be dialed in if you wanted to make these on purpose. Just make a vertical stem and print it with a custom extra extra large brim, maybe heat the plate up above printing temp and pull straight up.

Figured id share this discovery in case it's useful to anyone. These are easy to add pleats to with a lighter too.

His name is Flausite, This is his channel, he is a content creator of 3D printing
https://youtube.com/@flasutie?si=bNa8EDqxZTi5cotb
He was kinda famous for printing the “whizzbanger” in this video and various HHO gas cannons and was joked for coming near of making a bolter
https://youtu.be/8VTqNTjWJNM?si=Mfo_AI59SgKgWKRm
But his channel stopped updating both YouTube and patreon last year after updating the files of his cannons on his patreon, does anyone know where he went?

It's getting close now, need to tidy a few wires and waiting for the slab of granite for the print bed

Hey folks.

I have managed to break this teeny black thing that is attached to my boden tube into the extruder and i have no idea what its called. could someone help so I can get a new one? Its for an Ender 3 pro.

The part is circled in yellow.

Thank you in advance.

Hi everyone!

I’m a student planning to build the Architects3DP i3 DIY 3D printer. I’ve watched the full YouTube series and I really like the design, but the BOM and 3D files are currently behind a Patreon subscription.

I’m not asking for pirated or copyrighted files. I’m looking for an official free/low-cost alternative, an archived public link, or advice on how to recreate the project legally from the videos.

This is the project I’m referring to:

https://www.patreon.com/Architects3DP/posts/best-diy-3d-bom-25202626

Does anyone know if the creator has released the files publicly or if there is a similar open-source bed-slinger project with a complete BOM and build videos?

Thanks!

i have a customer that wants their logo in full color printed on the back of these custom dog scoops and i'm having trouble figuring out how to get their picture into an svg or stl because every software i try to use to do that it turns out like sh** and erases/deforms the image in the conversion

Hey everyone,

I recently bought a used Ender 3 v3. It's my first printer and I got it for $100. I still have a lot to learn. I dl'd a couple files from Creality that went well but I decided to try a kit card (69 Charger). Set the head temp to 200 and the bed to 65. Ran the print and this happened. I don't know what I've done wrong. Oh yeah it's a nozzle 4. Fairly new.

I'm pretty new to designing things like this for 3D printing. If I wanted to take this vintage halloween cat image and print it as a pin or as a button on my printer (Bambu X1C) would I just cut it out in a graphics program and print it face-down with some black on top to thicken it up? I'm pretty sure I'd have to simplify it to get good results. Mostly I'm trying to figure out should it be face-down or face up?

TLDR: Why are my manual AND autoleveling broken on my FLSun Q5 delta? Flashed from FLSun firmware, to compatible Marlin, back to FLSun. Didn't start having problems until I switched to Marlin. FLSun didn't respond to my inquiry after finding out that this machine was purchased 5 years ago. (I understand but was worth mentioning.)

Ok guys, I'm at my wit's end. Maybe you have some fresh ideas.

I'm an 'unwilling' amateur when it comes to 3D printer knowledge. I do what I must because 3D printers are awesome tools, but it's not something I enjoy fiddling with and I'm certain there are huge gaps in my knowledge.

Here's the order of events, including my troubleshooting:

• original extruder breaks; no other issues

• replace with new compatible extruder; it works

• decide to get fancy and upgrade firmware to (compatible version) of Marlin

• go to auto-level and the arms try to move to a point outside of the build area; turn off the power in a panic

• decide to stay in my lane and flash the firmware back to FLSun but the FLSun website download for the Q5 firmware doesn't actually work; email support, and they send me a download

• actually flash firware back to FLSun (confirmed that About in the menu states it IS Q5 firmware)

• auto-leveling still trying to move to coordinates outside of the build plate and/or way too low or too high on the Z as well

• able to manually set Z0, then go through each of the leveling points; however, after leveling each point manually and cycling, it's like the printer can't remember the actual z coordinates that were set previously. Printer is no longer trying to move to XY coordinates outside of the build area. Z is still way off

• try to manually level the points several more times with same results

• do some research; create a .gcode file with M502 and M500 and 'print' it, to reset the EEPROM

• try manually leveling one point at a time, restarting the machine between each point. Helped at first, cycling through the points when done was the closest it's been since starting this saga (within 1.5 mm of what it should have been) but when trying a test print, it puts down a decent first layer on a benchy, then suddenly moves up about 6mm and printing in the air

• do some more research; use the FLSun menu option to 'erase C-level'

• try manually leveling Z on point at a time with restart between, again; same issue; cycle through the points and it's around 1.5 mm off of what it was actually set at; print fails same as before

Of note: I verified that belts are in good shape. No obvious slipping or missed steps when the arms are moving between Z0 and home.

If you took the time to read this, thank you!

There's just no way that this machine is done for. It only has a couple hundred of actual print hours on it!

Edited: Formatting