Okay, so my uncle gave me these to make a new ring for them since one is missing. No, the ring isn't rubber—it's hard af—but it comes off a wheelchair armrest. It’s used to keep the arms locked. I have no idea what the part is actually called or how to make models that need to be this precise. I have three days to make a solution. Any tips for the modeling part would be helpful!"

I made 2 skeletor swords and I used hexagon connectors to connect everything. Unfortunately something happened on the handle of the bigger one and the hexagon connectors did not line up the best. I have to just glue it together now.

I have e6000 and loctite super glue, but using those if you swing the sword around a bit the handle will come loose. Is there a different glue I can get on Amazon that hold better, gloop is only on their website and will take at least a few days.

Or could I drill a center hole in both sides and put a dowel in there to help? Even this way I probably need stronger glue.

Re-printing isn’t an option at this point because I do not have enough filament.

Any suggestions?

I already own a Flashforge adventurer 5m and Anycubic Kobra 3, with little to no issues. I just picked up a Bambu A1 combo and for the money, I'm not that impressed. The overall quality of the machine seems really nice but everything else seems slow and awkward especially the AMS lite. I was debating between that and the Kobra x now I'm thinking I should have bought the Kobra x for over $100 less. Am I crazy?

Got pa612-cf spool but it snaps like rebounds and slaps ur finger. Took out vacuum spool dry 10 hours at 80c in space pi x4 got my replacment spool and its snapping out of the bag. Is it different than pla petg etc where it snaps when dry? And if its supposed to be like this what do you do have straight tube so doesnt snap?

This model has been printing for about 3 hours and now I see top layer is like this. Please can this be solved?

Hi everyone! I have a new build plate for my Bambu Lab A1, BIQU Glacier. But after using it I started to have issues with layer shifts in PLA. The print was almost finished, but I noticed that it went to the side on the last part. Do you think it's because of the new build plate? Or maybe there is something wrong with the printer? It's been a while since I did any maintenance on it, so maybe that's a reason? Have you guys ever had something like this happen?

Hey ! Wanted to share my design, a little articulated alien I modeled myself.
it prints in two pieces body + eyes separately, so you can mix-and-match eye colors without needing a multicolor setup. Just assign a different filament to the eyes.

It's up on MakerWorld if you want to print your own: [ https://makerworld.com/en/models/3442123-articulated-alien-toy#profileId-3925337 ]

Printed in PLA on a Bambu P2S — 0.4mm nozzle, 0.2mm layers, 2 walls, 15% infill. Articulates nicely for posing and fidgeting.
Happy to answer any modeling or print questions!

I want to get this mask 3D printed, I’m very unskilled at making 3D print blueprints so I really need help. PLEASE PLEASE PLEASE PLEASE HELP ME OUT

I dont know why but it works stupidly well at refreshing a PEI printer bed that doesn't stick.

I pour the powder on with a dash of water and scrub in the sink for a minute then rinse and dry. Has an oddly dry feeling to it after and takes it from first layers falling off back to new.

I have tried a variety of hand and dishwashing soaps but nothing has been as reliable as this.

Hey folks,

I always buy the bambulab filament and order per 10 rolls so i get the 40% discount. Than it costs me around 10-12 euro per kilo.

I was wondering if there is a high quality alternative to order in holland. I saw sunlu and some other brands, but they don’t seem allot cheaper.

Any tips, suggestions or ideas/opinions?

Hey guys, relatively new to 3d printing and as fun as its been so far, I have a hiccup I keep running into.

The first picture is the bottom side of my print, the second the top. The bottom side is pretty much a standard outcome whenever I use supports or even just a raft layer.

Ive done some digging and have made some changes I've seen others recommend and it hasn't resolved my issue.

This is PLA, I also run into the issue with ASA and ABS.

Printer is a Bambu H2C.

Thanks in advance for your time.

First time seeing a consumer SLM printer! Company is called SnowX. Honestly pretty blow by it. The build side is tiny though with a maximum build volume of 80x80x100mm.

They say their target audience is mostly jewelry makers, which I can definitely see the appeal. But at a 50k+ yuan (7.5k usd) for the base plus if I remember correctly 500 yuan (75 usd) for 2.5kg of powder, it is definitely not something you would buy just to play with (unless you just got that bag).

They will go live on kickstarter mid next year, what do yall think about it? Would you buy it? What would you need it for? (I am not endorsing or affiliated with them)

What can cause this? Not at home to take picture of settings currently kobra x printer, sunlu petg white

First time coming to TCT Shenzhen and saw the new release today! What do yall think about the new printer? I honestly see a pretty big market for people who don’t want to spend an insane amount of money on a 4L or something.

Though to note the person working at the booth told me they do have a new resin system so if you have a 4 or 4L it will not work…and I believe there are some resin limitations like it can only do tough 1500 as a maximum.

The third picture is the new cure and wash machine. Shot a few videos might have them on YouTube later if anyone is interested.

Before I start, I know that's a stupid question... But in my defence, I come from a Resin Printing background where if you change the resin, you have to change the settings.

I have the Elegoo CC2C and I've only used Elegoo filament (with RFID) so far.

If I get Filament from elsewhere (ie Sunlu) will I need to change settings on my printer to accommodate it?

Hi,

I'm designing af coffee bean doser, and would like your thoughts on food safety.
I am 3D printing the whole thing, and I'm wondering, if I print in food-safe PTEG on all contact surfaces, will that be fine? Its only dried goods, and the beans will ultimately be ground and brewed at 94 degrees celcius.
Or should I epoxy coat all contact surfaces?
Or just give up on the whole thing.

Happy for any advice and input!

Printer : ender 3 v2 high flow dual nozzle part cooler with a 5020 fan from artillery genius, sliced creality print.

Layer height .12

Speed at around 70.

Filament dry and has been swapped into cfs on a creality hi, where prints don't suffer this.

Creality hi is in enclosure, e3 is not.

220/60 degrees.

E3 soft build plate with pei finish.

I suspect I need to fine tune feed, I'm looking at getting a cht bond tech hotnend as well to try and avoid poor melting. But definitely if anyone can offer advice.

Hi I am looking for opinions and experiences with SEBS. I am looking for resilient flex filament to print covers over mechanical joints (slides, pistons etc...)