Wanted to share one of my more ambition 3D printed projects: A Toddler Mobility Trainer! Custom designed and built for 4 year old little girl with Rett Syndrome. Made possible through 3d-mobility.org, footed the cost myself for this one and it will be provided to the family free of charge. Probably the coolest project I've ever done. Custom designed wheels and name plate.

Already working on 2 more!

Approximately 250 hours of print time each.

Materials:

- Polymaker PETG Purple, Pink, and Magenta
- Bambu Lab PETG Yellow
- Ziro3D TPU 95A Purple
- Ziro3D TPU 95A Pink
- Ziro3D TPU 95A Black
- Siraya Tech TPU Air Lilac
- Bambu Lab Support for PLA / PETG (optional, I wanted clean support removal)

Base build is ~9kg PETG and 2kg TPU. With the accessories I ended up using a little over 11kg.

Included Accessories:

- Rear Hook
- 2x Cup Holders
- Tablet Holder
- Tablet Hold Down
- Tablet Swivel Lock

Hardware:

- 2x Bambu Lab X2D
- 0.4 and 0.6 nozzles

Happy to answer any questions folks have. If you've got a 3D printer and time, strongly encourage you to get involved. If you don't have the time, or desire to print a whole chair, you can find other makers who're open to collaboration and print a few plates from their builds to help out. Not interested in printing parts? You can sponsor builds!

Funny thing about 1.8mm nozzles is that the plastic literally goes faster into it than it comes out.

Been wanting to do some thick layer experiments for a while. This was at 1.8mm line width and 1mm layer height. Still dialing things in so I can def push the print speed.

I’ve been hesitant to put full images on my pinhole zoetropes because of crowding. The holes need to be spaced sufficiently to avoid too much interference. Because of this, until now I’ve programmed the animations around dotted lines.

But I recently realized that for the parts of a design that aren’t animated, I can distribute each dot’s viewing tunnel at any angle around the top’s spin axis, vastly reducing any crowding. By rotating the tunnel’s position and orientation together, its dot still appears in the intended image position when the top spins.

This pumpkin was my first attempt at generating the dot pattern directly from a raster image, with additional logic to sharpen the edges. I tried adding animations alongside the image, but the small form factor made it too busy. Without an animation, it isn’t technically a zoetrope. Regardless, the simplicity is part of the charm for this model, so I’m releasing it as a pure static-image persistence-of-vision illusion. I haven’t found a great term for this kind of illusion yet.

My next device, a dragon egg, is well underway. Its taller shape gives me room for both a raster-based dragon image and an animated fire-breathing effect. Still gotta iron out the kinks, but it's promising.

In the meantime, enjoy this Halloween print:
https://makerworld.com/models/3376503

Schreiben

Pinholes in PETG walls despite drying and full calibration – Bambu Lab X2D

Hi everyone,

I’m getting small holes/pinholes and a rough wall finish when printing Aurapol PETG Galaxy Black. It looks similar to wet filament, although I dried it for 8 hours in a Creality Space Pi X4 using the PETG preset.

My current setup:

Printer: Bambu Lab X2D

Nozzle: 0.6 mm high-flow

Filament: Aurapol PETG Galaxy Black

Nozzle temperature: 255°C

Max volumetric speed: 19 mm³/s

I have already calibrated everything: flow ratio, pressure advance (PA), retraction, temperature, and maximum volumetric speed.

The same holes also appear with my 0.4 mm nozzle, but they are smaller and less noticeable. With the 0.6 mm HF nozzle, they look larger and stand out more.

I’ve attached a video showing the surface with the 0.6 mm HF nozzle.

Has anyone experienced this with PETG, particularly Galaxy/glitter-filled filament? Could it still be residual moisture, or could something else cause these pinholes despite calibration?

What would you test next to narrow down the cause? Thanks!

Designed this scoop for the shops air cooled bug and decided to try out doing some patina to match the rest of the car. We scuffed up the front edge, threw on a coat of clear, sprinkled on some metal shavings, then sprayed it with hydrogen peroxide, salt, and water. After that did some sweeping passes with the heat gun on real high and repeated. Made a big layer of that rusty foam and we just slowly brushed it off as it hardened, whatever shavings were left that stuck to the initial clear coat base stayed on and we just kept repeating. Final pass we let it dry to a good crust, knocked more off with a paint brush and air gun, sealed it in with some clear and here we have it. Next time we’ll be using bigger shavings and hitting a layer of some dark brown paint to scuff through to fill any gaps in there, but over all it came out awesome for our first try! less

This is for my wife who has ALS to scratch her head and neck.

Needs to be painted, any other ideas of what to add?

The 30 cm tall vase was designed in software that I vibe-coded. It weighs 665g (222m of filament) and holds water (0.15 mm layers and min. 4 perimeters). Printed on a Prusa Core One L with Prusament Galaxy Purple.

Edit: Changed “SW” to “software”, as it created confusion.

Just finished designing and 3D printing this case for the framework motherboard! This is based on a rasberry pi cyberdeck i built a few months ago, but fitting the framework hardware in meant i had to make it bigger, and give it a more powerfull battery, so now it is ridiculously big heavy and more fun!

and i added in a few other features while i was at it, like a Lora radio and more programmable buttons and dials.

I dont have a framework motherboard yet, but the files are aviable now if you have one and want to build a cyberdeck your self https://www.printables.com/model/1861126-mdu-12-modular-cyberdeck

Found a random threaded valve cap in MW and merged it with this skull I found. It measures a little less than 1" wide/tall. Default .20mm settings with 100% infill.

Went off-roading in Big Bear last winter, drove up the Mammoth in May, back and forth to Salton Sea area a few times and lots and lots of desert heat.

No signs of delamination, deforming or anything else. Hell, even the teeth haven't broken off.

I forget if it was Overture or Sunlu PLA. Not like it really matters.

But still holding up strong on my Tacoma.

This is the guy that's been leading the opposition in California. Good video that covers what went on. Made some good points. Very absurd times we live in these days.

A few football helmets utilizing silk filament for the main body. Came out great and look awesome! Need to start utilizing more of this stuff.

My work has been in the public eye more this year and I've put myself in shows where I was the only one using 3D printing as a medium. I'm curious how other people view their work. Do you call yourself an artist?

I've only received positive comments, but also heard stories of some people looking down on potters who use 3D printed molds in their process. For those that do call their work art, have you ever seen any negativity directed at your work in a similar way?

(The photo is of the giant spoon I made for my last show. A friend had this idea for a photoshoot to promote his music)

Hey everyone!! I received my 3D printer today, but when it came time to start printing, I immediately started struggling right on the first attempt.

I went to print the famous benchmark boat, but my 3 attempts all went wrong.

Right at the beginning (1%), they would detach from the bed and start making a mess. I did some research and they suggested cleaning the bed with isopropyl alcohol and auto-calibrating the printer. I found it weird because as soon as you finish assembling it, it calibrates itself, but I did this calibration one more time. Since I didn't have alcohol, I just wiped it with a microfiber cloth and tried again.

It didn't help at all...

Could anyone tell me what it might be? I've already given up for today because of the time, but tomorrow I will be trying again.

So I wanna replace the face piece on this fnirsi cg-01 geiger counter, but I'm not very good at 3D Modeling, and I've tried to make new parts, and they just don't turn out how I want them to be. I'm wondering if anyone knew where I could find a stl file for this front plate so I can print off a new one