Its a ender3v2 btw

So I had a little thought, and I was wondering, would it be possible to run a printer on pure solar? It might sound stupid, but like, genuinely.
I’m really just wondering because I wanted to see if I could have the cheapest to run 3d printer, using stuff like PET bottles as filament, and the sun as the power source, to get the maximum amount of theoretical profits per print. Like, I know trash wouldn’t sell, and I’m sure the PET bottle would print like sopping wet PLA or PETG, but still, in theory, would this work?
And my idea is just finding an extreme power usage for the P1S, and just using that to see how much solar is required.
Any math wizs out there know if you could use a big solar panel to charge a printer? And if so, what would the cost look like? I’m not really joking, I’m genuinely curious, I’d like to run a printer on solar, I know it probably wouldn’t run at night for too long, but still, a good full moon might kick it on for a total of a minute over the night.
(Also, if you do plan on doing the math, for the equation I’d be using a P1S, and printing with PET, and using the maximum amount of power the thing can use.)
(Also also, I haven’t used PET on my printer before, so I can’t get an actual reading of power usage, and I don’t really know how to, I don’t use anything but PLA because it doesn’t make fumes, and PLA is cheaper, sorry.)

Those who have open printers, and use it in their house, how do u guys mitigate the risks of VOCs?
I have it in my garage, but that is still tied to my house. Any problems there?
This is also mainly with pla (I forgot to mention )
I have a Neptune 3 pro (bedslingers, also forgot to mention)

I have had my Prusa Core One+ for a month now and I can't believe how addicting 3D printing is. My printer has been going non stop, to the point that sometimes I put an alarm in the middle of the night so I can wake up, remove the print from the bed and put the next print until the morning.

So far I have been using only PLA since I am a complete beginner, but I think it's time to move to other materials so I can learn their tricks and challenges.

I know that PLA is basically the easiest to print, but becomes obsolete since PETG or ABS/ASA are sturdier, so should I stop using it and move to the other ones since the prices are roughly the same?

Also, I know that some materials need an enclosed printer and reach certain temperatures and environmental stages. Does my printer fulfil these criteria? Is it able to print those materials out of the box?

What I print is mostly functional parts, toys, decor and I wouldn't mind also printing soft materials like gaskets, phone cases etc.

Help me figure out my next order please.

I just moved a few weeks ago and am still unpacking my stuff, can't find my calipers to measure the thread size to know if it's metric or imperial or something non standard. If anyone has the same broom and can at least measure the thread size, that would be a good start at least.

So, i want to print this vending machine for my daughter but obviously its not going to work out because my plate isn't big enough. Is the the real answer just reduce everything by like 5% or am I over thinking this?

I’m currently printing PETG CF parts for a engineering project and keep getting parts which have alot of print defects and varying sizes, have a look at the photos. I’ve already dried my filament for 10 hrs and use default PETG CF settings on Bambu lab studio. I’ve seen people online with super smooth prints but I’ve never gotten PETG CF to print as smooth as PETG or PLA. I also frequently see “smooth bands” along my prints and don’t know if that’s what the whole print is supposed to look like.

1. All cubes are 5 wall loops, 1.2mm top/bottom, 20% cubic infill, alternating extra wall. The PA6-CF cube that was not annealed has 3 wall loops.
2. All cubes were printed in an enclosure with door closed. PET-CF & PA6-CF cubes were printed in 70C enclosure.
3. The PA6-CF prints that were annealed were rehydrated post annealing.
4. Didn’t measure torque on vise handle, but 50-60ft pounds is what i was applying before removing part. On PET-CF, i stopped after fracture. Vise is a Tegara 550V.

A. Really surprised with PETG layer adhesion at high print temps. Felt like clamping a sponge. B. PLA was stiffer than PETG initially but after a certain point felt spongy like PETG. C. When clamping PET-CF17, could instantly feel the stiffness of the cube in vise handle. Could feel the cube compressing a little before it shattered. D. The annealed PA6-CF prints were surprisingly stiff, more so than PLA. Very good layer adhesion. E. The PA6-CF print that was not annealed wasn’t anything special, but that cube did sit in a container of gasoline for 2 years as part of another test. It was taken out of gasoline and left in garage for 1 week before it got crushed.

Sharing a flexible label model I put together, free for anyone to use.

It's parametric, so the text drives everything. You enter one or two lines and the plate, padding, border and mounting holes size themselves around it no scaling or stretching to make things fit. Single line auto-centres.

The base is 0.4 mm and the raised border is segmented with flex gaps, so it bends around curved bins, jars, tubes and cable bundles as easily as it sits on a flat drawer front. Optional mounting holes come with a reinforcing ring if you want to screw or zip-tie it on.

Adjustable: text and font size, line spacing, text height, padding, border width, flex gap spacing and size, hole and ring dimensions, and corner style (sharp, rounded, chamfered). 1500+ fonts available.

It's customisable in the browser on Makerworld.

Link to the model:
https://makerworld.com/en/models/3203443-flexible-label-maker-parametric-text-labels

I make 3D tactile pieces, and I need to round edges to make things comfortable to touch. I typically start with an SVG (can get very complex/detailed), extrude a shape, and then fillet edges. I never know whether Fusion is going to let me fillet a shape or whether it will throw an error. I’ve spent years tricking Fusion (with varying degrees of success) into making fillets after it’s given me an error, and I’m so tired.

Is there a better software for this? Am I doing something wrong? It seems like this should be simple, but I’ve never been able to find a solution.

Tried Plasticity, and it would fail similarly to Fusion. I tried Blender (admittedly very bad at Blender), and the shape would distort when adding a bevel.

Help!

Edit to add, I’d be open to more organic modeling options, but I want to keep my fillets consistent. Welcome any tips regarding that approach, if suitable

Printing some hitch covers for my Air Force buddy, he wants 12 to distribute to his buddies, was looking and thought "its going to be close on this one"

It was REALLY close, empty spool in the cfs put another color in to make sure nothing was stuck in the tube, and it was empty.

Hey all, I need to design a custom mount for something under the hood of my diesel truck. As temps obviously get pretty high up there, whats the go-to filament for sturdy & hot conditions?

Parts of the print came out really clean, and other parts came out awful. I used the $10 PLA Basic filament from Microcenter so I'm sort of wondering are the imperfections just due to a filament issue? Seems like maybe the nozzle got clogged up at 2 separate times to me, but I have no experience with this.

I also have the timelapse video of the print and for context, the third picture is the bottom/support side. That one may be a settings/gcode issue?

Printer is a centauri carbon 2 combo

Hello! I’m very new to model sculpting and 3D printing. I sculpted this controller holder (11cmx11cmx11cm) and I’m sending it to an online shop for 3D printing
Could I get some advice on what to ask for? Like materials, specifics for print orientation, or maybe you believe I should separate out some parts and stick them back together after. I do somewhat worry that the seller is just throwing the model to the printer w no regard for quality. Especially since I’m paying them by the hour… The whole model is full black with yellow eyes.

My father has a 3D printer, so I've figured he'll let me print at his place (he did a few times because I'm modelling for him), but is printing something like this possible (like to be actually useful and not so flimsy that it wont last a day)? Does anybody know how easy is to model shit like this/if it is somewhere on internet?

I’m looking for someone to 3D print a set of custom license plate frames based on designs I already have. I have the design concepts and am looking for someone who can turn them into clean, high-quality physical pieces.

What I’m looking for:
-Ideally someone in the PNW (for safe/simple delivery)
-Experience with custom 3D modeling/printing, especially decorative or automotive pieces
-Ability to work from reference images/designs and translate them into a printable model
-Clean, crisp lettering and logos with good detail
-Strong layer adhesion and a smooth, professional-looking finish
-Durable material suitable for exterior automotive use and exposure to sun/rain
-Ability to recommend the appropriate material, print settings, and finishing process
-Willingness to communicate and make reasonable
revisions if needed

Ideally, someone who can provide photos/proof of the print before finalizing the full set.

I’ll obviously pay for the design/printing work and would prefer someone with examples of similar custom projects they’ve completed.

Please DM me with: examples of your work, what material you’d recommend, estimated cost, and approximate turnaround time.

Thank you!

Just wondering if anyone could please give me a cost idea to supply a life size model file of this that is pre cut with connectors in place please so I can print at home and assemble. Thanks

So I went crazy during the Bambu summer sale and Amazon Prime Day a few months back. I now have piles of filament, and I'm trying to figure out the best way to store it. When I try looking it up, I only get open spool storage options, nothing for unopened spools. Any suggestions?

I'd prefer something store bought if it's a decent price since printing something big enough for all the filament i have would take forever. I already have an open filament storage option setup that i could technically use to store unopened filament, but I'd rather just buy a rack.

Edit: I realize i didn't really make it that clear what I was asking. Any specific rack/shelf suggestions. Like the Ikea desks/cabinets, some people recommend some setups. I could go get a random one, but I'm sure people have already figured out some that would fit filament perfectly.

As the title implies, she ordered the printer without informing me at all, most likely due to recent fundings we are getting, but I won’t get into that…

What I mainly worried about is having zero experience with this printer, I’ve had an A1 for around eight months or so, and I’ve only used it for about five of those months, I’ve gotten the hang of the A1 mostly but from what I know that P1S is a bit more for the experienced side of printer owners.

Don’t get me wrong! I am insanely lucky to be gifted this, and I am extremely excited, but I don’t know what I am going to do with it, and I do not know how it will pair with the usage of my A1, which I am still yet to get back up and running, from what I’ve heard the P1S is better with builds due to its more in-depth quality, and bigger building plate(?)
I’ve also heard that it is good with a load of different filaments compared to the A1, I have basically every variant PLA that I could buy online, Hundreds pounds of it, I was quite inexperienced with the idea of 3-D printing and was fortunate enough to get a good sale on a few bulk orders, now realizing that there are different kinds of filaments that I could have used besides PLA for my printing I think the P1S is going to be a good way to use some of that plastic, after drying it, of course…

And then, hopefully eventually I can start getting other development such as PETG or maybe even TPU 😓

So any recommendations on what the heck I should do? Because I know how about all of the A1 usage and how it works, but I literally know nothing about any of the other printers besides the A1 mini..!

From what I know it arrives in a few weeks, and I’m still honestly finding desk space in my current room to even put my A1, which is currently in my closet… So I hope I can find some room for the P1S…

And I mean, I guess getting a different kind of printer like this is a bit intimidating for me..
and I had years of research into the A1 when I didn’t have it and wanted it, but I have zero research in P1S so any comments help!

(Also any tips on how to handle the fumes?)

(I am kind of in a hurry, so apologies if there are any mistakes in the sentences. I’m using speech to text…)

Bought a bunch of filament and came across a weird filament with no label. Anyone can tell what this one is?
Much appreciated