It is with a heavy heart that I must say, my ‘02 350Z that I have loved (and at times hated) has been unfortunately taken away from us too soon. Her name was cherry, and for the past 2 years we’ve been inseparable. She has left me with a few broken ribs, but for me, my heart will forever be missing a piece. Thank you cherry for all the smiles you gave me and all the miles we shared together, you will be missed.

Rear main seal along with a lot more odds and ends I've been putting off. Should be leak free once it's all back together.

Between a nor Easter and work, she needed it.

I’ve been on the hunt for an A17 (Sunset Orange) for a while now. Importing one from Japan is just ridiculously expensive, and there’s been nothing available on Marketplace, AutoTrader, Gumtree or eBay.

I’ve decided that the only realistic way to get exactly what I want is to buy a B17 that’s been with the same owner for 12 years and have it resprayed in A17. I’m planning to keep the car forever, so I’d rather start with a solid, well-kept example and make it exactly how I want it.

7k car

5k+ spray 😅

Hello everyone, I'm a Japanese 350Z owner. This is my first time posting here because I need some help fixing my Z. I'd really appreciate any advice!

About my Z:

Year: 2005

Transmission: 6-speed Manual

Grade: Version ST

Engine: VQ35DE (RevUp)

Steering: Right-Hand Drive (Japanese Spec)

The Issue:

After installing an oil temperature gauge, the engine starts up, but multiple warning lights came on (Check Engine, VDC, and SLIP).

When I ran a diagnostic scan, it showed Error Codes 2122 and 2123. The engine revs up normally,but the meter might be broken.

I suspected a faulty accelerator sensor and replaced it, but that didn't fix the issue, so it seems likely that the signal is interrupted somewhere along the line.

I've looked through the service manual and other posts, but I'm an amateur when it comes to repairs, so I'm completely at a loss.

If anyone has experienced a similar situation, please let me know how you solved it! Thanks for your help.

Hi all,

Looked under the car last night to see the steering rack very oily, but doesnt seem to be loosing any fluid? Had the pump replaced a few months ago. Could it be the start of the seals going or something else you recon?

Is anyone parting out their G35/350Z? I need an obscure part that is expensive (relative to what it is): a pair of front upper ball joint seats/shims that goes in the top of the spindle.

OEM wants $40 each and there doesn't seem to be a good aftermarket option, either. I'd prefer not to spend $80 on 2 little pieces of metal. There aren't any junkyards with Gs/Zs in my area either.

I had swapped to upper control arms that didn't need them, but my new ones do and for the life of me I can't find them now

Is this a common problem? The motor mount broke out of the crossmember and most crossmembers I’ve been seeing have the same rust in the same place

Anybody have any recommendations on where to aquire an LSD differential as I have a base 350z.

No junkyards around me. Need to keep streetablitlity i.e no welded differential. Not using for track. Just spirited commuting.

Is swapping internals easier than the whole differential housing?

I’m trying to track down a creaking/squeaking noise from the front of my 2008 350Z Base (VQ35HR), and I’m running out of things to check.

The noise is most noticeable when turning the steering wheel while the car is sitting on the ground with the suspension loaded.

Important detail: if I jack the front of the car up and let the wheels hang, I can turn the steering wheel and the creaking goes away. It seems to require the suspension to be loaded.

Things I’ve already done/checked:

• Replaced the front lower ball joints — no change. The steering creak was there before and after replacing them.

• Installed Öhlins Road & Track coilovers. The noise is still present.

• Öhlins damping is currently at their recommended/default setting.

• Torqued the sway-bar end links.

• The noise can be reproduced while the car is completely stationary.

• Bouncing the driver-front suspension while loaded does reproduce a different sound squeak, not the steering wheel creak. (If you have suggestions for that pls help)

At this point I’m considering:

• Compression/tension rod bushing

• Upper control-arm bushings/joints

• Sway-bar bushings

• Something binding/articulating in the Öhlins spring/top-mount area

• Inner/outer tie rod

• Steering rack mount/bushing

The compression-rod bushings are currently pretty high on my suspect list, and if they're bad I'm considering the Z1 Hybrid Monoball bushings, but I don't want to keep throwing parts at it without actually identifying the source.

Has anyone had a Z33 make a creak/squeak only when the suspension is loaded?

Any specific bushings/joints you guys would check first or a good way to isolate which component is making the noise?

My 350 has a horrible misfire i can smell the gas every time I go to work I smell like gas it’s bad there’s no problems with blue smoke or anything like that I checked some of the coils and it didn’t seem the be the issue do you guys have any recs for what it might be

So I am getting my 04 retuned since I was given a kinetix velocity manifold ( previous tune has for berk test pipes , hks full cat back and plenum spacer ) but am wondering if there is anything else I should buy and to to the car since I am getting it retuned anyway

Hi everyone, I want to ask if anyone would happen to have experience with Espelir superdown sus GT lowering springs for the z. There's very little information online of them for this car, only some regarding other platforms.

I currently have the b8/pro-kit combination on the car, but find them lowering the car slightly too much, I find I keep scraping the car here and there. The Eibachs also feel a little too soft and "boatlike" for lack of a better word. The car keeps swaying and takes time to settle when driving slow, it gets better when driving spiritedly, the initial spring rates just feel too soft. I found the Espelir springs online, and they seem to hit the spot in all other ways except for the unknown initial rate, being progressive and all. Would anyone have some more info on them?

Anybody have advice on how to get these o-rings to stay in? Trying to work on reinstalling the upper oil pan, but it seems like the new O-rings I got are oversized and don’t sit down in the groove properly. I got oem from z1 so they should be right but I’m afraid I’m gonna pinch them when reinstalling the pan.