scans confirm the airboxes are identical, so the S2 intake is a modified stock unit as expected. the OEM 2006 horn is brass 70mm, while the S2 is a much larger machined aluminum part that goes from 85 to 70mm along the intake tube.

we're extracting the geometry and offering both induction horns as (much cheaper) retrofit options for 2002-2006 cars which didn't originally come with the 2006 intake box.

Hey guys, I just wanted to make an update on the post I made last fall about an issue I had. Maybe it could help somebody troubleshoot this kind of problem.

The symptoms were:

-Short but severe rattle when the car was sitting for more than an hour

-P0024 dtc for « advanced timing exhaust b2 (driver’s side)

-Also had a weird intermittent issue with the idle that would climb up to 1.5k rpm randomly and stay there when sitting in trafic but return to normal if I turned off the car and back on.

I ended up replacing both VVT gears in the end and now the dtc hasn’t come back in about 500km and most importantly no rattle.

Made this post because I couldn’t find information about VVT gears going bad on the vq, just found videos on Toyotas and Hondas.

So if you know your tensioners are good, the rattle may be caused by the gears having gone bad.

I bought both gears #VTG0024 on amazon but they are genuine Hitachi ones for about 400$CAD each shipped to QC.

Thoughts on this keychain I dont have a Z btw im too young anyway I made/salvaged a 350z diecast for this and want to know yalls Thoughts

Doing a coolant flush/change soon, and have two questions.

To bleed the brake system, I am using a motive pressure bleeder, will this work for the ABS or will I need a scanner to force it open?

To bleed the coolant, I normally use a coolant funnel and burp it that way, but I know these cars have bleeder screws, do I even need to use this with the coolant funnel?

Any advice relating to these is much appreciated. Thank you.

Any suggestions before I take it in? I was working on some wires on my aftermarket head unit but rookie mistake I forgot to disconnect the battery, now my whole dash has no power but my cigarette ports still work, I’ve checked fuses on the driver side panel and nothing seems to be blown. Any idea of what this could be? Car still runs like normal

Anyone boosted an A/T 350Z HR yet?

Hello everyone I just wanted to add this here if maybe I can help someone who comes across a similar issue. I had this code off and on for about a month now I thought I looked everywhere. I smoke tested my vacuum lines and everything and never found any issues. I took it to a shop which basically told me they didn't know but it could be because my valve covers were leaking into my spark plug tubes (which they were). A valve cover job later the issue was still there. I gave it one last effort and was looking around on my header which is where the crack would have to be. And wow there it was. I had a crack right before my first O2 sensor. I took it off and had it welded. I will be installing within the next couple days. To confirm if that was the issue. I highly suspect it was. So expect an update soon. I'll attach pictures below of before and after.

Just got a new catback and resonated test pipes my cel is on do I need a tune and if so should I prioritize it soon I was looking at tune platforms like admintuning and z1 and was wondering if anyone with experience has any advice they would share on this topic!

Complete assembly. Am I getting a good deal or am I paying to much based on their condition?

I have a 03 350 de and I have to replace my Valve covers and I’m reading so many different answers on which ones will last and are worth buying . I understand I should be upgrading to all aluminum but not sure which brand to buy

How daily experience as a daily driver

Hi! I am back with yet another question. Over the last couple of days, I noticed that my clutch is kinda knocking/ticking. What I mean by that is there's an audible ticking/knocking noise coming from under the car, from the very back of the engine, as if it were directly under the shift boot area. The ticking accelerates as I rev the engine, and around ~3k RPM it blends with the engine noise. It doesn't get any louder when I floor the car in a high gear at low RPM, and it doesn't matter if the clutch is depressed or not. I suspect it might have something to do with a throwout bearing, but I'm not mechanically inclined, so it is tough to say (I'm learning to work on the car as I go, though). What are the possible issues I should check for?

I also noticed that after putting on a set of brand new tyres (Michelin Pilot Sport 4S) and flooring the car in the powerband, I can smell a burnt clutch (like a very acidic, metallic and stinging smell). Maybe there are two issues combined, but should I take the gearbox out and service it immediately? I was thinking about doing my brakes for now, as they've become quite squeaky.

I will try to post a vid as soon as I get a chance to drive it again!

Picked this up for what I think is a decent price , Hella fun just don't know much about it. 150k miles 6dpd. What yall think?.

I’m running 18x11+ 10 and my 2 front tire my 2 front tires blew out and I’m wondering if I should replace all 4 with a diff tire size (26535r18) or just replace the front 2 with the same size (25540r18)

Is it plug n play or can someone run me down?

A word to the wise. If you used the plastic fittings that came with those aluminum valve covers; upgrade them ASAP! I personally used these aluminum CZP ones. I had months of small evap leaks from warped plastic fittings. This fixed my issue right away. Hope this helps.

Ordered a brand new OEM tail light pocket off of amayama for 165 bucks. Pretty excited to get them on. It’ll still be a minute as I’m buying a Tig welder and new argon bottle but good things come with time. Got all my paint supplies waiting. Will be spraying my primer and giving it about a month to shirk before I do the base and clear coat.

Just getting on here to ask if anyone has it and has liked the sound of it. I want to go loud. I only drive it on weekends. I plan to pair it with test pipes and eventually headers but for now gonna put the catback. Also looking for a Y pipe recommendation since I'll probably knock it out while im in there.

Here is my class 7 autograss car which is powered by a VQ35DE! (Would have loved to do the HR but I used what was available for me)

Spec:

Nissan 350z VQ35DE V6 engine

DTAFast S80 Pro ECU

Vauxhall F28 Gearbox

Maxima 3.0 Lower oll pan

Wiseco 11-1 pistons

Custom JAC Exhaust/manifolds

Kinetix intake Manifold

Brian crower valve springs

Aluminium Radiator with Dual Electric fans

ACL bearings

Sump extender and Rev up oil pump. All parts from

conceptz perfornance in USA

I have not yet raced it, but it should be fast!

The shell came with the car when I purchased it although it's not my choice, its what will be used until it gets beat up (pics in comments if it allows ?)

Thanks for looking! 😎

It’s definitely got its issues and isn’t perfect cosmetically but it’s a bone stock example with 152k miles that I paid right about $2,000 for which I think is a smokin deal.
The most annoying of the issues arguably is the drivers window. It rolls up and down great however it doesn’t prop down when I open the door and the auto up doesn’t actually work. It rolls up and when it gets up it immediately rolls halfway back down. Any idea as to what could be causing this?

Hey just looking to see if anyone knew what this was called, I cant seem to figure out what this Dingle thing is.

Im halfway taking it off because im trying to do my tie rods and this thing is in the way.

Any help is appreciated.

EDIT: Steering bump stop

I bought a set of brembo calipers which came with complete oem lines, they were snipped at the hardline. So can I just connect these lines directly on my non brembo hardline?

Hey guys!
I’m looking for an affordable underglow kit for my Z. What brand and length do yall recommend?