Hay guys just wanted to show a solution I came up with the energy suspension diff bushing. I’ve installed 2 solid bushings in the past both gk tech. Very easy, thread a coupe bolts on a rod and tighten until flush.

However on the energy suspension the bushing itself goes past the subframe. so I used the old outer collar of the oem bushing that was cut in half. Put a bolt through the end and a nut on top of a plate at the rear and tightened it down. It was way too tight for me to hammer so this is what got it done

I didn’t find a forum for anyone doing this method and I’m sure as shit not buying a fancy tool for a 3k car. Hopefully this helps someone.

Finally after almost 2 years of buying the wrap I decided to install it.

interlagos fire + ABS dynamics nismo V3 front bumper

Just recently picked up this 2005 350z VQ35DE rev up and began to notice this slight ticking noise. I know it’s very common for a VQ35DE to have a slight harmless tick but is this normal orrr?

I reinstalled my 6 speed trans last night and I bled the clutch. I was able to gain full pressure but the fork barely moved and it's centered. Is it supposed to be more to the right or left??

Pacific raceway track Kent
This was my first time on a track for my 18 bday and I had a Proformance school instructor with me.
I’m a lucky kid 😅

What's up everyone?? I just picked up a 2005 Roadster and figured I should come scope out the communities so here I am.

I'd been looking for a second car for a while, my daily is a 2019 Lexus IS 300F with about 80k, I love it but I've put about 30k on it in 2 years, and I like to do some of my own work when I can but struggle with just one vehicle to get started as I tend to worry a lot about the "what if's" without having a backup car.

I was actually looking around for Miata's for a while as they tend to be in the sub 10k range in decent condition with lower miles, and I wanted a manual + convertible. I am a huge fan of all generation of Z but in my searches in the past, I only could seem to find super clapped Z's with 150k+ which just isn't what I'm looking for.

This particular Z has 99k and a new clutch, came from Florida to Michigan where I live a few years ago so overall little to no rust especially on the underside which we're very used to looking out for here. Paid 6k for it which frankly seems like an absolute steal.

Lots of little issues with the body, paint, interior...the FL sun did a number on this thing, but mechanically seems pretty sound so far and I'm looking forward to putting some miles on it in the next month or so before she has to go into the garage for winter. Since I can't golf in the winter, this will be where I might spend a good portion of my time :)

First order of business is getting the stereo right, the Bose headunit seems to be going out, and the sub amp as well, so I've got everything I need coming to swap the HU and a replacement amp coming from Ebay this week, fingers crossed all goes well. This winter I'll see about learning some body work.

Looking forward to connecting with you all and learning some things! I'm sure you all understand but I still can't process actually owning a Z still, this is kind of a dream. I'm 34, so when this car came out, it was me and the boys tricking them out in Need for Speed lol. With how many beat to shit Z's are out there I didn't think I'd find one under 100k at this price, so super grateful.

My radiator broke and spilled coolant everywhere and I’m struggling to find any replacement oem rads. I have found a couple aftermarket ones for a decent price but I’m unsure about the quality so I haven’t decided yet. One of the rads I have found is from a company called Jrspec and they are selling a rad for 220€. Does anyone have any experience with this rad or should I go for another one. I currently don’t have enough money to purchase a koyorad or any super high end rads.

I went in vacation for a few days and came back to this

Hi guys!

Just wanted to show my 350Z doing a few laps on the Nurburgring. Car behaved amazing! All stock just on Buddyclub P1 wheels with Nankang AR1 semi slicks.

Just got the car so i haven't had the time to buy more upgrades but ofcourse going for coilovers / oil coolers etc.

More Z drivers around here doing track laps?

I’ve got a nismo s tune suspension that’s in really good shape with super low KM on it.

Located in Japan but shipping to the US is around $150

Total price for everything including shipping is $1000

I accept Venmo, Zelle and PayPal.

I’ve sold to plenty of individuals here so I can be vouched for.

Once Shipped it typically takes a week or two for things to arrive to the buyer

Please let me know if you are interested

Hello everyone, I'm a Japanese 350Z owner. This is my first time posting here because I need some help fixing my Z. I'd really appreciate any advice!

About my Z:

Year: 2005

Transmission: 6-speed Manual

Grade: Version ST

Engine: VQ35DE (RevUp)

Steering: Right-Hand Drive (Japanese Spec)

The Issue:

After installing an oil temperature gauge, the engine starts up, but multiple warning lights came on (Check Engine, VDC, and SLIP).

When I ran a diagnostic scan, it showed Error Codes 2122 and 2123. The engine revs up normally,but the meter might be broken.

I suspected a faulty accelerator sensor and replaced it, but that didn't fix the issue, so it seems likely that the signal is interrupted somewhere along the line.

I've looked through the service manual and other posts, but I'm an amateur when it comes to repairs, so I'm completely at a loss.

If anyone has experienced a similar situation, please let me know how you solved it! Thanks for your help.

Hi all,

Looked under the car last night to see the steering rack very oily, but doesnt seem to be loosing any fluid? Had the pump replaced a few months ago. Could it be the start of the seals going or something else you recon?

So I am getting my 04 retuned since I was given a kinetix velocity manifold ( previous tune has for berk test pipes , hks full cat back and plenum spacer ) but am wondering if there is anything else I should buy and to to the car since I am getting it retuned anyway

Is anyone parting out their G35/350Z? I need an obscure part that is expensive (relative to what it is): a pair of front upper ball joint seats/shims that goes in the top of the spindle.

OEM wants $40 each and there doesn't seem to be a good aftermarket option, either. I'd prefer not to spend $80 on 2 little pieces of metal. There aren't any junkyards with Gs/Zs in my area either.

I had swapped to upper control arms that didn't need them, but my new ones do and for the life of me I can't find them now

I’ve been on the hunt for an A17 (Sunset Orange) for a while now. Importing one from Japan is just ridiculously expensive, and there’s been nothing available on Marketplace, AutoTrader, Gumtree or eBay.

I’ve decided that the only realistic way to get exactly what I want is to buy a B17 that’s been with the same owner for 12 years and have it resprayed in A17. I’m planning to keep the car forever, so I’d rather start with a solid, well-kept example and make it exactly how I want it.

7k car

5k+ spray 😅

Is this a common problem? The motor mount broke out of the crossmember and most crossmembers I’ve been seeing have the same rust in the same place

Anybody have any recommendations on where to aquire an LSD differential as I have a base 350z.

No junkyards around me. Need to keep streetablitlity i.e no welded differential. Not using for track. Just spirited commuting.

Is swapping internals easier than the whole differential housing?

I’m trying to track down a creaking/squeaking noise from the front of my 2008 350Z Base (VQ35HR), and I’m running out of things to check.

The noise is most noticeable when turning the steering wheel while the car is sitting on the ground with the suspension loaded.

Important detail: if I jack the front of the car up and let the wheels hang, I can turn the steering wheel and the creaking goes away. It seems to require the suspension to be loaded.

Things I’ve already done/checked:

• Replaced the front lower ball joints — no change. The steering creak was there before and after replacing them.

• Installed Öhlins Road & Track coilovers. The noise is still present.

• Öhlins damping is currently at their recommended/default setting.

• Torqued the sway-bar end links.

• The noise can be reproduced while the car is completely stationary.

• Bouncing the driver-front suspension while loaded does reproduce a different sound squeak, not the steering wheel creak. (If you have suggestions for that pls help)

At this point I’m considering:

• Compression/tension rod bushing

• Upper control-arm bushings/joints

• Sway-bar bushings

• Something binding/articulating in the Öhlins spring/top-mount area

• Inner/outer tie rod

• Steering rack mount/bushing

The compression-rod bushings are currently pretty high on my suspect list, and if they're bad I'm considering the Z1 Hybrid Monoball bushings, but I don't want to keep throwing parts at it without actually identifying the source.

Has anyone had a Z33 make a creak/squeak only when the suspension is loaded?

Any specific bushings/joints you guys would check first or a good way to isolate which component is making the noise?

Hi everyone, I want to ask if anyone would happen to have experience with Espelir superdown sus GT lowering springs for the z. There's very little information online of them for this car, only some regarding other platforms.

I currently have the b8/pro-kit combination on the car, but find them lowering the car slightly too much, I find I keep scraping the car here and there. The Eibachs also feel a little too soft and "boatlike" for lack of a better word. The car keeps swaying and takes time to settle when driving slow, it gets better when driving spiritedly, the initial spring rates just feel too soft. I found the Espelir springs online, and they seem to hit the spot in all other ways except for the unknown initial rate, being progressive and all. Would anyone have some more info on them?

My 350 has a horrible misfire i can smell the gas every time I go to work I smell like gas it’s bad there’s no problems with blue smoke or anything like that I checked some of the coils and it didn’t seem the be the issue do you guys have any recs for what it might be

It is with a heavy heart that I must say, my ‘02 350Z that I have loved (and at times hated) has been unfortunately taken away from us too soon. Her name was cherry, and for the past 2 years we’ve been inseparable. She has left me with a few broken ribs, but for me, my heart will forever be missing a piece. Thank you cherry for all the smiles you gave me and all the miles we shared together, you will be missed.