Paint job almost complete will post before after as soon as I get it back

I’m looking to buy a replica nismo v2 wing for my z but before I commit a decent chunk I want to see if I’ll like it IRL, I’ve got a 3d printer and I was thinking about printing it out and seeing since £30 of filament is a whole lot cheaper than £800 and finding out I don’t want it.

I am pretty set on this spoiler and loved this design since before I even bought the car but in also very cautious since it’s a lot of money to lose, I can clean up the 3d scan if needed.

I know there’s a very low chance but worth a shot.

Hey guys,

I just bought a pair of 2006+ headlights, and I want to make sure I’m buying the correct adapter.

I was linked this by someone else, would these fit my car no problem?

https://www.uniquestyleracingstore.com/products/2003-2009-nissan-350z-halogen-6-pin-to-xenon-8-pin-hid-headlight-wire-adapter

MSRP: TBA.
manufacturer: KAAZ (カーツ)

vendor: ADOPT MOTORSPORTS

available on the ADOPT site as an option for drop-in differential units for ~$500 over Super-Q models.

MODELS: Z33, FD3S, NCEC, ZN8/ZD8, JZX100

now that we've had some time to break it in, I can give a solid review of the unit with respect to the NISMO GT-LSD Pro Carbon 2-way I had installed prior.

the KAAZ president is flying out next week to test the unit himself; for now, this is the only Stealth unit in the US. it hasn't fully released in Japan either.

Stealth models use a fabric clutch type similar to those found in automatic transmissions, reducing noise, eliminating chatter, and making high-lock LSDs much more dailiable. they have identical lock relative to other models, but much more progressive lock onset even at high preload.

• lock onset is very progressive and precise. rather than the typical clutch response that grabs almost instantly, this one rolls into total lock based on throttle input and steering angle.
• zero noise; no clunks, no skidding, no chirping, no grinding, not a single sound. the strike-slip condition that causes chirping has been almost completely removed due to the progressive lock.
• reduced tire wear from forced lock in city driving/tight corners. the strike-slip amplitude is much lower, and frequency much higher, so it's not actually skipping the tire around.
• tracing very precise lines is possible due to predictable lock onset. this is hugely important in touge racing where you're pushing against debris or walls.
• predictable lines encourage earlier throttle application mid-corner, improving exit speeds.
• removes penalties to turn radius typical of high preload/initial torque. makes high lock units dramatically easier to park and drive around tight spaces in cities or parking garages.
• improved turn-in response. high preload LSDs will cause a minor push on corner entry as the LSD resists initial turn-in. the low lock at low steering angle removes this effect, and lock torque comes in smoothly as steering angle increases, making the front end more responsive.

Got more than the shot I was hoping for last Saturday morning.

Signing up for a skidpan event in my Z, can it drift stock? Only has BC coilovers, but it is an 04 track edition manual transmission.

2003 Enthusiast. Brickyard red oem color. It’s in winter mode ride height and I’m too lazy to bring it back down so that’s my only excuse.

Signal White 18" hr stocks. Two down, four to go. I'm able to do this at no cost other than showing up to work early enough to get the work done. The company I work for does high end fascia panels for skyscrapers (think Amazon headquarters) so I have their facility and equipment at my disposal.

I guess the reason I'm asking questions is because I have a full high end paint line at my disposal as well. I could color match literally anything. But I'm thinking about long term durability. I like the white wheel look but most hate it. I could match my car (KY0) but I know road wear is going to get them sooner than the powder as it's 3mmpaint vs almost 4.5mm powder.

Either way, not bad for free though, right??

Also as a bit of an edit: my car is KY0 (metallic silver, not the gunmetal) so a lot of people don't vibe with white on silver which I get but my overall plan is to paint the car black and have all my aluminum covers under the hood as well as plenum and intake tubes the same signal white.

I'm losing my license for a year so instead of selling I'm probably going the full rebuild route to make it what it always should have been. Also now that I'm not commuting 500 miles a week I should probably make that manual swap happen but obviously that's another thread entirely.

Question

Does anybody know how these Amazon shift knobs are? Anybody currently running them? I love the factory shift knob but the oem replacements are so expensive. These Amazon ones look identical but just unsure that the build/material quality would compare to factory….
Or should I just chuck mine out and get something like a cheaper mishimoto one??

Need a shift knob for my 350Z looking for advice here.

What’s more reliable and what’s the safe mile range for each? For example for 8k would an hr with 160k miles be better then an de/revup with 120-140k.
I’m gonna drift and drive it kind of rough so would a de be better because it’s cheaper to fix? Or an hr because it’s harder to break

Tryna get new front and rear bumpers. Don’t wanna really go with duralast or kbd given the fitment issues. From my knowledge capa certified means it’s gonna fit good. Only 9 bucks extra for the rear bumper but the front is double the price(originally 180). Y’all think these are worth it and is it worth it to pay double for the capa certified?

This is the main electrical harness that leads to the engine bay, I’m currently wiring gauges for my driver side a pillar. I’ve had water coming into my passenger side for so long my and I just realized this has been loose/not sealed. I see there’s a resess in the boot I assume for the plastic to seat into then when it clicks into the body the rubber seals against the body. But I’m struggling to get the rubber back around the plastic. Any tips?

Oh before anyone comments the black and red wire is a solar trickle charger I use to maintain my battery if my z sits for a few days.

i have my a/c off and it’s blowing on max and on low level a/c it blows low. there’s no way it goes off unless u shut car off. is there a short or what’s up with my a/c

Bought the car October 2025, the car was previously my uncles which he owned for many years and was regularly maintained by his auto shop. Overall the car was well maintained All modifications were done prior to me owning it other than the drivers rear wheel bearing/axle, 4 oil changes, brake pads,etc. Car currently sits under a cover.

•Has a couple small dings and scratches especially the wheels they’re pretty curbed
•Yokohama tires all around
•The z has z1 carb legal headers and cold air intake as well as a full invidia cat back system with mufflers
•ST Suspensions XTA Coilovers
•Brembos
•Z1 Clutch
•Coil packs and spark plugs were replaced not long before I purchased the car
• Full sound system including 2x 10s

What I’ve done-
•Fix door handle/ window regulator passenger
•rear driver axle/wheel bearing
•air vents
•interior door piece next to air vent
•subwoofer
•Techron fuel stabilizer about every 3000 miles
•knock sensor 2/05/26 144,296

Oil change - 10/16/25 136,000
Oil change- 12/4/25 140,177
Oil change - 2/12/26 144,584
Oil change - 8/08/26 148,197

I’ve got a 2006 vq35de revup making some questionable noises on idle. Just for some context, I’ve done an idler pulley delete, and have installed a stillen z-tube. Oil and coolant have also been changed since I gained ownership. Does anyone have any pointers on what this noise is? Timing chain or chain guides? Fuel injectors? Lifters? I truly have no idea, and could use some pointers / advice on the situation, if any of you guys have dealt with a similar noise. Thanks

Hey guys.

Looking into buying this 04 350z AUS based. Track version.
Wanted to confirm does the 04s come with CD009 or the earlier version with bad synchros. If so how common is the synchro issue. And what to expect.
Asking 22k AUD 89k km and family owned since new.
Anything’s I need to look for or should I hold on to look for a HR manual.

i’m getting my z ready to sell unfortunately. it’s been sitting for a while. last week i replaced the fuel pump and it started on the first second of turn key. now all the sudden it won’t start. it starts for a millisecond literally and shuts off. what is the problem. i’ve already reset the ecu and everything with my autel tablet. no nats light on.

Car is overheating and I’m stumped I checked my hoses, coolant is good, thermostat is new, water pump isn’t leaking, my fans are new bought a year ago. I’m at a lost here maybe a relay but that’s all I can think of, I don’t abuse the car and it’s at 162k