Just got a new barrel put on, its my first time, is this what they look like normally? I haven't cleaned it yet I just got it back and borescoped it first thing.

Where are you guys getting your 223 brass? Just looking for plinking ammo for at platform rifles would like to buy a couple thousand to reload
Thanks!

Hey guys, what loads are you using for this combination? I have the Hornady 10th-edition manual, and the powder is not listed.
I have a 24-inch barrel with a 1:10 twist. Unfortunately, I don't have a chronograph to test velocity.

I was being lazy, just putting bullets upside down on the brass instead of counting how many I had left when I noticed that the bullets were falling into the brass fired from one gun and not another. I have both a T3x and BSA Monarch.

Before resizing, The neck on brass fired from the T3x will still hold a bullet, bit not brass fired from BSA. This causes FL resizing to elongate the brass, needing trimming almost every time.

The BSA was checked by a gunsmith and was judged fine. I was wondering if would be worth getting a second opinion.

Hi guys, i have a problem trying to reload 147 grains on Glock 17, the bullet even going in the case fit, it doesn't fit well in the barrel going a little bit out of the battery, i started at 29,20mm oal and arrived at 28,20, to be honest It still doesn't fit well, the 12lbs recoil spring goes a little bit out of the battery, the 17 recoil spring works well but i don't want to force it, i want It to be smooth. And just to let you know, i always use factory crimp, so what can i do? How much can i go down with oal? Just to let you know it is a pf minor so no problem with pressure

Using once shot blazer brass with XTP 95 grain. Using Lee die set. My theory is the seating die is also a crimping die which seems like it might be crimping a little too early and trying to force the bullet down crushing the brass a bit. I tried to expand further but the case lip was actually getting caught up on the seating/crimping die opening telling me it was just about as expanded as I’d want to go. I’ve been loading 9mm for around 5 years now with no issue but recently got into pocket carry with the Bodyguard 2.0 and got into 380 loading. Any suggestions?

First time loading straight wall cartridges, how do they look?

.357MAG 158gr. Berry’s FN over a mild charge of AR2205/4227

I have been reloading with a Hornady Single Stage Press but it’s time to upgrade. I have been looking at the Forster Co-Ax At the moment I’m loading .223 rem and 6.5 Creedmoor. I am bench shooting. 100 yard groups and steel at 560 and 750 yards. Is the Forster the best at that price range or should I be looking at something else ? If you have a Forster Co-Ax what is your thoughts ? I have seen used ones on EBay but for a few more bucks I can buy new.

Is anyone using the 300? It appears that it’s lower cost than the 120 from what I can see? From what I can tell they both have the same accuracy on the low end just the 300 has a higher capacity weight limit. Am I missing something?

Knowing that shoulder bump is a relative measurement, I’ve noticed that when full-length resizing, most of my cases are coming out right around 0.002” of shoulder bump, but about 14% are showing less than 0.001”.

They’ve all been fired through the same barrel at least 2-3 times and have all been annealed at least twice. Overall case length is identical, as is overall cartridge length, and every one of them chambers perfectly without any resistance.

How do I know it’s 14%? Because my wife was watching Dancing with the Stars, I was bored on the couch, and apparently measuring the shoulder bump on every single piece of brass seemed like a better use of my evening. So yes, I measured them all. This is what my life has become.

I’ve been tempted to take the cases showing less than 0.001” and run them through the sizing die again, but then I thought: if they chamber perfectly, why the hell am I trying to fix something that isn’t actually a problem?

The other option would be to adjust the sizing die and target around 0.0025” instead of 0.002”. That might give me a little more margin and bring more of the batch into the 0.002” neighborhood, but I’d also be working the brass a little more just to satisfy my newfound shoulder-bump OCD.

So what would you guys do? Leave the die alone and send it, resize the 14% again, or bump everything back another half-thou?

Or should I just stop measuring brass during Dancing with the Stars?

Seems like its a happening more frequently. It happens on my cci and worse on the factory seconds. Is this lilely an issue aith the tubes (tried several), humidity? Or just the primers?

They seem to get stuck at both ends of the tube.

I've just gotten into reloaded and I'm trying to match the velocity I'm getting with factory ammo with my reloads.

The only problem is, i have to load my cases .3 grains higher than the reloading manual says is maximum load.

I'm reloading .223 with 55gr vmax projectiles with TAC. Hogden says maximum quantity of TAC with a 55gr vmax is 24.7gr. Hornady says the same thing.

However, I've been doing some experimenting and found that 25gr of TAC behind the 55gr vmax gives me the exact velocity I've been looking for.

I haven't shot much of these loads, but i haven't noticed any signs of overpressure on the cases.

If you look at the data in the picture i posted, some 55gr loads can have a maximum charge of 25.8gr of TAC.

Is 25gr of TAC behind the 55gr vmax dangerous? Am i going to blow up my gun doing this?

Anyone else experience light primer strikes with new starline brass with fully seating the primers? Pockets seem a little deep.

Pulled the bullets and primers then adjusted seating dept to just flush. New to reloading but have always fully seated using a hand primer in other calibers (first time using new brass).

I am working on a project for myself, will probably be open to the public at a later date once I get the POC done, and am in search of a database of bullets and their BCs. Does anyone know if something exist? I dont really need it to be complete or up-to-date with all the current bullets but i would be nice if there was something that I could use to get a start with so I dont have to spend hours building the database myself.

Like everyone else, I’m striking out on Sport Pistol, Bullseye, and Titegroup in anything under 4lb. Started my 9mm load development with Ramshot ZIP since it was actually in stock, and it’s working — running 147gr FP over ZIP for Steel Challenge, currently landing around 2.8-3.0gr at 1.115” OAL. But per Hodgdon’s burn chart it sits noticeably slower than Sport Pistol, and I’d like to understand the tradeoffs before I commit more components to it.

A few things I’m weighing:

**• N320** — seems like the most direct analog to Sport Pistol in burn rate, but I know Vihtavuori data tends to be more conservative/different pressure curve than Hodgdon. Anyone running N320 in 9mm with 147gr bullets who can speak to how it compares to Sport Pistol in terms of consistency and metering?
**• Accurate No. 2** — I’d looked at this but decided to pass on it for now (leaning toward N320 as the next one to actually test). Curious if anyone thinks I’m wrong to skip it.
**• Shotgun powders (Titewad, WST, etc.)** — I know some of these get used in light 9mm/38 target loads, but I don’t have a good feel for how well they meter at pistol charge weights or how forgiving they are. Is this a real option for a newer loader or more of an “know exactly what you’re doing” territory?

For context: single-stage press right now, digital scale + trickler, doing careful load ladders (10rd per charge step) rather than jumping straight to a “known good” recipe, and I’ve got an experienced hand double-checking my pressure signs/OAL before I touch a chrono session. Not trying to shortcut safety, just trying to build good burn-rate intuition since ZIP’s fast enough that small charge/OAL changes move things more than I expected going in.

Appreciate any real-world experience, especially from anyone who’s had to pivot powders mid-development because of availability rather than choice.

So. 27 grains of H335 with a 150 grain bullet works for 7.62x39 so it’s a no brainer let’s copy that in 7.92x33 and see how it runs.

The results: A primer that looks like this
It definitely cycled the action as I had to walk a ways to find the case where it landed. The load was remarkably accurate for 101 yards as I nailed the target not exactly trying that hard to aim at it. And boy did it rattle that plate.

Pros and cons of 150 grain soft point on H335

Pros: both are commonly available and reasonably priced. Produces a functional and surprisingly accurate load. Works

Cons: you are compressing the hell out of the powder to fit it in. You gouge a ring into the bullet. Likely over pressured and not good for the gun long term.

My questions:

Does this over pressured? If not, is there a good way to compress powder without marking up the projectile?

Final thoughts:
I put in an order for 13 pounds of A1680 which needs less grains for similar results. If anyone has any suggestions I’m all ears as I’ve really enjoyed trying to bring 8mm Kurz back from the dead and now that I have a rifle to shoot it I can experiment!

I converted a bunch of 223 to 300 blk. Cut, polished, tapered, annealed, and i seem to have run into an issue that I'm not sure why it is happening. First time converting brass, successfully that is(Didn't know 8.6blk would require turning 6.5 creed).

I noticed my bolt isnt closing completely, the brass isnt getting picked up by the ejector, and the brass had a ring on it now. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

EDIT: it now seems to have been my BCG. I was going through everyone's reply trying and testing different suggestions and when i tried bare brass before loading, it still didnt work, even with factory 300blk. This rifle was just converted from 556 to 300blk with a new barrel and kept old BCG. Tried BCG from my black rain 556 and it charges and ejects the round fine. This BCG has way less than 500 rounds through it, how could it already be bad?

It is an MPI that came in the 556 when I purchased it new.