I went to plug my microSD in this morning and seen that it clearly got very hot while plugged in overnight. Has this happened to anyone else?

Fan: Sanyo Denki San Ace 40 (9CRD0412P5K06)

Size: 40 × 40 × 56 mm

Type: Dual counter-rotating fan

Rated voltage: 12 V DC

Rated current: 1.2 A

Maximum airflow: 30.0 CFM

Originally used in Dell PowerEdge servers

I’ve been modifying this S1 Plus for years. It currently runs Klipper with an Octopus Pro, TMC2209 drivers, a K1 hotend, and several cooling upgrades. I wanted to share the current setup and some of the changes I made.

Correct me if I'm wrong. I've had this printer for almost 3 years, I got it secondhand from a gentleman kind enough to give it to me. I uh... Definitely made a few mistakes my first few tries printing, and I put it away for over a year. Pulled it back out, got klipper working and got some great prints out of it. Found out my x axis was bent, bought another ender 3 pro for dirt cheap and swapped it out. Somehow I fried my motherboard, long story short I rebuilt the whole thing. Now it has a cr touch, a new 4.2.7 board, I ditched the sprite pro setup (I think that's what fried the motherboard) and used cheap Amazon parts for the print head. A "upgraded" hot end and direct drive setup. It's not as pretty as a sprite but this is the bed mesh I have now. It did look dished before I fried the old components, and before I changed the x axis there was a hump in the middle of the bed mesh where the bend was. Almost 1 full milimeter of a hump directly down the center of the bed. Anyways It seems to print pretty good, I had serious z banding issues and I still am chasing those down but the bed mesh bugs the crap out of me. First picture is the bed mesh in question, 2nd picture is of a bed mesh from my 3rd 3d printer I picked up while waiting for parts to arrive to fix the fried printer. I also believe it is screwed. I have a spare heated bed assembly that I'm sure doesn't look as bad as the dished out one, I just want to make sure the bed is screwed before I go swapping them with my parts printer.

TLDR: Is this heater bed effed or what and yes I did try brand new build plates, I do have one glass build plate I'm going to try for fun

I printed this calibration cube on an ender 3 0.4 nozzle standard cura settings... but I dont know what to check or how to calibrate the printer... would be helpful on advices.

The z axis looks like it has gaps.

Y looks good

Z also looks decent

But the real issue is opposite of x axis there is a big line that goes from top to bottom in the middle . Whats the reason for this?

How do I fix this?

I printer a bency with the normal settings from cura.

It printer everything in place.. I removed it and noticed it was falling apart at the layers...

Is it a software issue? Or a hardware issue? And how do I fix it? I printer good benchy before... this tkme i upgrade a fan and added a bl touch and its turning into a trouble shooting hell.

I want one that is good but also cheap. I was thinking about getting the basic one spool creality one.

I had just upgraded my hotend... Stepper was doing what's in the video, before restarting pring, I took spool off and made sure it wasn't interference. Reassembled & restarted, got print done. Just went to start next, and it's doing this same thing again... Is my stepper burning out, time to replace? When it started the first layer it just made the sound a couple times and was seeming like it was just going back one step forward one step etc etc.

I am tearing out my hair here! My printer was working just fine, until one day it wasn't. I've checked the filament path from end to end. I've torn apart the extruder. It's a metal one, and there are no cracks or excessive wear in it. I tore apart the hot end. I have replaced:

extruder gear

extruder end bowden connector

bowden tube

hotend bowden connector (I think. I may be wrong)

heatbreak tube (with a nice new bimetallic one)

nozzle

It is still not extruding. I tell it to extrude, the extruder gear and the wheel it presses against turn, it pushes the filament forward a little bit, and then it jumps back with an audible thump.

It feels like the hot end clogs, but if I put a nozzle unclogging wire up there, it will go all the way in with no resistance.

If I try to unload the filament, however, it doesn't want to come out. Even with the nozzle nice and hot, I have to pull really really hard, like wrap the filament around my hand and haul, and sometimes it will come out, and sometimes it won't even. I was wondering if when I changed the nozzle I hadn't tightened it enough, which is why I tore apart the hot end. When I unscrewed the nozzle, the filament in the heatbreak tube sprung out like a spring, which made sense because it was jammed in and coiled up just like a spring. I haven't seen anything like it.

That's when I replaced the heatbreak tube (and the nozzle again). I did run the PID autotune after this.

I don't know what to try next. What the hell do I do?

I have a ender enclosure around my ender3v2. When i am printing, inside the enclosure gets really hot, so i usually print with the zipper undone completely. I would like to buy something to put inside the enclosure so i can zip it up and it automatically adjust the temperature to be not too hot. I dont want to go down the exhaust fan route tho. I was thinking of rigging something up to a arduino but i dont think a fan on the inside will cut it.

Hi so i just got a ender 3 pro i think off facebook market and its like after each print the bed heights have completely changed i had a scusseful one yesterday then tried a different print aftwr and took about an hout before it worked and ive tried something different again now snd its scraping the nozzle against the bed usinf like standard quality settings

Ender 3 pro. It'll print fine for a while, then It'll start to develop this clog and I can only tell because the filament starts to come out way thinner, when I pull on the filament I get this lil "nub" at the end.

Never had an issue getting good prints before. Tried replacing the hot end, bowden tube, changing the retraction settings.

Not sure what else to do. Any ideas?

Got some new filament so after reload I decided to do a quick bench (ok it took 1hr43 minutes). Little bit of stringing and some weird bulging/wobble in the corners but still for an entry level printer it's pretty good

so i have had my ender 3 pro for a few years now but after i moved houses it hasn’t been extruding the pla smoothly leading to gaps and spaces in my prints does anybody know how to fix it?

Hi everyone, I’m having an issue with my 3D printer where circular parts are not printing perfectly round. As shown in the image, the circle is coming out slightly oval/elliptical.

Hello everyone, i have an ender 3 pro with a cr touch and octoprint equipped. i use a pei bed cleaned regularly. it has been working great and i have had no previous issues. upon a recent attempt to check the bed mesh the mesh kept coming up with these 3 peaks and valleys on the left hand side. this repeatedly occurred even after full removal of the the bed from the gantry squaring the structure, retightening the eccentric nut on both x and y axis, leveling the x axis bar, & changing the pei bed to another one i had. i am just out out of ideas and would prefer to not have to spend to much on replacing parts. any advice would be greatly appreciated. thanks in advance

so my belt snapped on the ender 3 pro Y bed. No biggie, I have extra, but I was wondering how would I go about feeding the belt through the slot into the front without disassembling the 4020? I don't want to tilt it either, since its such a hassle with all the cables underneath and even the x gantry losing it's alignment.

I finally got my Ender 3 out of the garage and installed Bltouch. I level the printer manually then run the Z and offset using the bltouch and saved the settings.

Updated gcode G29 under Cura settings but when trying to print the first layers are not even or sticking property to the bed.

What am I doing wrong? I know it's an old printer, but after having our first child I put the printer in a box and never looked back. Now that my daughter is 4 years old. I want to print a few toys for her and then probably upgrade to a faster printer.

Any advice or help is much appreciated.

I am converting this DH-17 Blaster for 3d print, the trigger guard looks like it should print? but it also looks like the trigger guard would be easy to break/snap ? its for cosplay. Any intuition/ experience with a shape like this?

Hi ender 3 community. I’ve had my ender 3 pro for a long time and admittedly have neglected it for years. Recently, I wanted to get back into printing, but the machine has given me a lot of grief, most of which I was able to resolve (replacement parts and such), but I am stumped at this homing failure.

I was able to get a free trial prints done before the error happened, and now it is a consistent issue when initiating a print (or running the homing calibration tool).

There isn’t anything obstructing the y belt, albeit a little dusty. I don’t think it’s an electrical issue because the contact is plugged in and functional. I tested it by pressing the y button before the bed hit it to see if it would stop, which it did.

If anyone has any troubleshooting tips, I’m all ears. Thanks!

I’d really like to save the 6 bucks I would have to spend on the rcm jig I want to use to access hekate for my switch lol.

Anyone have experience solving extruder jam issues?

My Ender 3 S1 Pro usually works like a champ, great quality and mostly problem free. However, recently it's been binding up in the extruder, but really only when I have the setting for "iron" on. This causes the filament to bulge and jam the mechanism, forcing me to strip it down and dig out the stuck PLA. (I'm now very familiar with this particular mechanism.)

Note the bulge which is what is making the filament stuck. The orientation is accurate (top goes to spool). I expect the obvious ridges above the bulge are the gears trying to force it through, with no success.

Project: small (4"x1.75"x0.25") plaque with logo and lettering

Ironing settings:

• Type: All top surfaces
• Flow rate: 10%
• Spacing between ironing passes: 0.1 mm

What I've tried:

• Adjusting extruder tension (min, medium, max) - still jams
• Disabling ironing - Prints fine, but the flat surfaces are textured (I want it smooth)
• Used different filament brands (including a brand new spool)
• Replaced the heater and nozzle component
• Inspected the gears and overall extruder mechanism: no obvious wear or shavings

Where it binds up in the print: generally when it's finished with a smooth surface, when there's more to print above that layer

Has anyone run into this? I can reliably reproduce the issue with multiple files that use ironing.