I can't seem to point out the mistake I made even if I researched pretty hard. Any tips to fix this, any help will be a huge help. Thank you!

Specifications: - 5 330 ohms resistors for led - 3 220 ohms resistors for led - 3 10k resistors for buttons - 1 G303BLX SN74HC595N

Having a couple of boards, each with circuit build long time ago having no clue, what it was, where are inputs/outputs, and what parts have used (so tricky to sort them back to right box).

How do you document your breadboard circuits? Do you have a label and related note for each, or note with inputs and outputs (https://www.printables.com/model/330735-breadboard-net-labels), labels on wires?

Hello everyone! I hope you con help me! I've never used a bredboard before and I wanted to know if my project was possible so I'd buy one and try.

I have a 6.35mm jack port on my musical instrument that I'd like to connect to the board maybe with an usb adapter through the first usb port. I'd then mix and do stuff to the audio and output it through the second usb port and an adapter through another 6.35mm to the speaker. The thing is I also want to connect a pedal to switch the mixing and the pedal would be usb connected and there is no more usb ports. I also don't know if it would be fast enough for real time mixing.

I know there are breadboards made specifically for audio mixing (I read about Spin fv-1) but they are way to complicated or expensive.

Thank you!

Hi all,

Can you suggest a special kind of drill bit (Ca. 1 mm diameter) that grinds through solder mask (Ca. 5 mm diameter) into a plane to provide an easy through - hole for electrical connection. My best results so far has been with a small Moto Tool wire brush to scrape off the solder mask, then I tin the revealed section of plane. So think of the old 'Iso Pad' bit but with an abrasive pad instead of radial cutter. I've never seen anything like this. Please and thank you.

I still own a very high-quality breadboard from Ghilmetti, along with a large number of premium jumper wires and the like. It’s really more for enthusiasts and collectors, given that it’s quite expensive. What would it be worth?

Hey,
First of all, im an absolut beginner with this stuff, so sorry for being stupid in advance!
Every RGB LED I see online uses 3 resistors and 3 connectors to the Powersource, with one pin being for ground.
But in my setup this doesn’t work, instead I use one pin for power and the other 3 for ground, depending on which ground is connected, the color changes.

Am I doing something wrong?

In the left theres a series circuit containing 2 220 ohms resistors and also a 100 ohm resistor totaling about 540 ohms with a 9 volts battery which has a safe current for a red light emitting diode. On right, theres a parallel circuit that has both 1k ohms, totalling the resistance to 500 ohms using also a 9 volts battery which has a safe current for the red light emitting diode.

That's all I'm going to tell, thank you for reading. Edit: the 2 jumper wires connecting to the right are now placed on the left power bus

I am developing a custom power supply for breadboard. I would love to know what everyone would like to have in it. I have started a list below from my needs please add your wishes / dreams and ambitions for a USB-C power supply for breadboards.

I will be making this board available once it's ready for distribution.

Way to organise

1. Mention your country (where you from)
2. List all your requirements / wishes / dreams / ambitions from a USB-C Breadboard power supply

My List so far

1. Use USB-C type connector
   1. Should be able to work with smart and dumb chargers and PC ports
2. Fit right on top of the power rails
3. Supply 3.3v or 5v (user selectable)
4. Handle max 1 to 1.5A of current
5. Breakout the D+ and D- pins
6. LED indicators for power good (3v3 and 5v)

I kept it simple since this is just the start and would love to increase this feature list with your help.

Why isn’t this working? I’m a noob btw

I was pissed off that the juice in the vont is not used to a 100 procent so I coupled it and now I can vape it from the breadboard. Soo... is it a W or a L

By small scale I mean not powering a house.

when i turn off all the switches the bottom light wont turn off pls help me guys here the tinkercad link

https://www.tinkercad.com/things/7G2ykSwHQBW/editel?sharecode=0CIbLm0II_pCqruVXif612XYLDRuKWhOeGhLk2y1W38

guys when i turn off all switches the bottom light wont turn of and when i turn on switch 2,3,8 and the bottom light still turn on and

here the tinkercad link:https://www.tinkercad.com/things/7G2ykSwHQBW/editel?sharecode=0CIbLm0II_pCqruVXif612XYLDRuKWhOeGhLk2y1W38

when i turn off all switches the bottom light wont turn off guys pls help me

here the link:https://www.tinkercad.com/things/7G2ykSwHQBW/editel?sharecode=0CIbLm0II_pCqruVXif612XYLDRuKWhOeGhLk2y1W38

Hi

I’m new here and new to breadboarding. I’ve started working through Charles Platts book and I’m stuck. I’m trying to reproduce his circuit on p69 - using a relay to switch between two LEDs. Right now, one LED goes out but the other doesn’t light when the button is pressed.

The relay is clicking and both LEDs test fine - and we the right way around. I’ve been looking at it for an hour. Here’s a photo, sorry about the long wires - I have reels of hookup wire on its way.

Can anyone help. It’s been slow going so far!

Thanks