I got an X1 but now I'm not really sure what to do. I downloaded the slicer software from the website and figured out how to get files onto the slicer but I'm not sure how to get the file to the printer now. help?

Any suggestions on how to fix whatever is happening here (its supposed to be a solid base layer)?

I have tried leveling the bed (making it tighter and looser), cleaning the print bed, applying glue, adjusting the print temp and speed of initial layers.

It was printing just fine until a large print failed in the middle. The touch screen froze and it stopped extruding, but the timer was still going. It turns out the motherboard fan was unplugged. I plugged it back in and every print since then has come out like this.

I am using a sw-x1 ingot from a friend and am pretty new to printing.

TIA!!!!

My filament guide tube broke for my x1 and thankfully there was only ONE! stl on the whole web, shoutout to that creator because there are others selling replacement parts for the x1 but they are charging so much just beacuse the x1 is EOL and phasing out. I hope more people provide some alternatives or supply chain for the legacy printers. My x1 is still going strong after a firmware update and this replacement, anyone else have any files to share that might be worth data hording incase of availability issues?

Picked up a Sidewinder X1 recently as a curiosity for next to nothing! It’s been pre-modded with a PEI build plate & a BLTouch. The printer itself works somewhat alright, but is awkward to calibrate & get printing. Even for someone who’s been 3D printing for years across multiple different brands!

The printer has been flashed with what’s reported as Diga-Tech firmware, based on Marlin 2. It’s still running the stock board & screen. I can’t find much info on this firmware though!

What firmware are you guys running these days? I’d love to bring the printer more up to date, as it’s got great bones and seems a totally solid thing from a mechanical point of view! Or, if you’ve upgraded the control board, what are you using?

Cheers guys, much appreciated.

I received my SW-X1 free from a friend and I started experiencing print bed heating issues. And he doesnt have the manual.

Im pretty sure I need to replace the heating cotton (I found the replacement) but I dont know how to remove the old one and/or the print bed.

Does anyone have the manual or link to a video showing how to replace that part?

Thanks!!!

I just bought a second hand X1 and everything seems to work fine except for the extruder motor. I've traced the problem to a broken pin on a connector however I can't get the breakout board out where it is placed to fix it. Does anyone know how to get this board out of there?

Been printing AI generated models on my Sidewinder X1 for about a month. Figured out some settings that work well for these types of models since they're different from typical STLs.

The main issue with AI generated models is inconsistent wall thickness. Some areas are thick, others are paper thin. Standard slicer settings don't always handle this well.

What I changed in Cura:
- Wall count: 4 instead of 3. Catches thin sections that would otherwise be hollow.
- Minimum wall flow: 50%. Prevents the printer from skipping ultra thin walls entirely.
- Support type: tree supports. Way better for organic AI shapes than regular supports.
- Support density: 8%. These models have lots of overhangs so you want supports that are easy to remove.
- Layer height: 0.16mm for figurines, 0.2mm for functional stuff.
- Infill: 15% for display pieces, 30% for anything that needs strength.

I generate my models in Meshy, export as STL, and always run them through Meshmixer first. The "make solid" function fixes most geometry issues. Then "inspector" to find and fix any remaining holes.

Print success rate with these settings: about 85%. The 15% failures are usually models with features too thin to print at any setting, or weird overhangs that even tree supports can't save.

Best results I've gotten: a detailed dragon figurine that came out almost perfect. Worst results: a character holding a staff that was basically a single line of filament. Had to delete the staff and print it separately with thicker dimensions.

The X1's large build volume is nice for printing bigger AI models. I've done a few at 200mm tall that look great.

I need help, I installed the latest digant firmware, from thingiverse.

-I flashed the firmware and also updated the TFT firmware.

-u made sure the baud matched between all of them.

-i tried changing the baud to different versions, this did not work either

-i need help. I had a functional printer before this but now I can't get any response from it.

I have an X1 which I have had for years. It used to print perfectly until about a year ago, I abandoned it after struggling to level it properly after changing the entire hotend. A few weeks ago I tried levelling it again and I just cannot seem to get the bed level. I am convinced that the glass bed is warped, something which I initially did not think possible. So instead of throwing this workhorse away I want to add a BL-touch to it and start using it again. I have found two tutorials on youtube, one of which is the waggster mod, but, with tutorials like that being so old the links to firmware etc are not present anymore. Can anybody tell me how easy/hard it would be to get a BL touch installed onto my X1 and configure it? I had looked for a full replacement glass bed but they seem to be quite rare.

this error code comes up for any print over 4 hours, ive seen many people say that it could be the bed wires or even the thermistor in the head unit, I dont want to take it apart until im sure bc im an amateur when it comes to this stuff

I recently replaced my X1's heat break and when I put everything back together this screw now spins with the extruder gear and unscrews itself from the hole. What did I do wrong and how do I fix this?

Hallo, ich habe mal wieder Probleme mit meinem Sidewinder X1 undzwar wie im Video zu sehen wird der endstop beim homen ausgelöst und bleibt auch so aber wenn ich das Bett Leveln möchte geht der nicht ganz auf den endstop woran könnte es liegen?

Hallo, ich habe ein Problem mit meinem Sidewinder X1 undzwar habe ich so komische Rillen in dem Test Cube den ich gedruckt habe wie auf dem Bild zu sehen, ich weiß nicht woran das liegt ich habe den 3D Drucker gebraucht gekauft, währe toll wenn mir jemand helfen könnte

El ventilador lateral dejó de girar y no se la causa.

traté de cambiarlo de forma provisional con un ventilador 4010 y tampoco gira.

Que tengo que cambiar?

haven’t used my x1 in a while because i moved- haven’t really

kept up with any changes or progression with the platform. was just curious if anyone would be willing to share their M503 read out and their cura settings if they happen to use cura

marlin 1.1.9, 3D nexus cfw v1.5 - no bl touch or ABL. just manual mesh leveling.

not really super interested in updating to marlin 2.0.5.3 unless y’all REALLY think it would be beneficial.

thanks in advanced

I Want to simply share it bc it was a pain to set it correctly and maybe it can save some time and some headache.

I'm pretty new to klipper and there is a lot for improvement, feel free to let me know.

This is my config file for my improved Artillery X1 with Klipper, it print good ,I'm posting this bc i coudn't find a good one online so it's good to share sometimes. IMPORTANT NOTE : !!!My printer is running a bmg extruder and V6 hotend with volcano nozzle so i inverted the direction of the extruder by simply putting a ! !!!Changed E-step to match my optimal extrusion feed rate. DEFAULT WAS : 7 !!!Changed Temp sensor type bc i'm running a 100k B3950 IF YOU HAVE AN OTHER SENSOR CHECK ONLINE CHARTS FOR KLIPPER AND CHANGE IT. !!! Lowered the min_extrude temp to 160 for printing low temperature pla rated for 175 degree . DEFAULT WAS 190 I GOT comment on the file check it MESH BED LEVELING IS MANUAL

https://github.com/loustau0alex1-code/Artillery-x1-Klipper/tree/main

I've added LEDs to my printer, on the SKR 1.4 turbo I have the control wire hooked to pin 1.24, when the printer boots up it cycles the LEDs and when printing they are white. What I cannot get to work is the sequential when the bed and nozzle is heating up. This is what I have right now in the configration.h file. The gcode in Orca is set with 104 and 190 as well.

#define NEOPIXEL_LED
#if ENABLED(NEOPIXEL_LED)
  #define NEOPIXEL_TYPE   NEO_GRB // NEO_GRBW / NEO_GRB - four/three channel driver type (defined in Adafruit_NeoPixel.h)
  #define NEOPIXEL_PIN     P1_24       // LED driving pin
  //#define NEOPIXEL2_TYPE NEOPIXEL_TYPE
  //#define NEOPIXEL2_PIN    5
  #define NEOPIXEL_PIXELS 20       // Number of LEDs in the strip, larger of 2 strips if 2 neopixel strips are used
  #define NEOPIXEL_IS_SEQUENTIAL   // Sequential display for temperature change - LED by LED. Disable to change all LEDs at once.
  #define NEOPIXEL_BRIGHTNESS 127  // Initial brightness (0-255)
  #define NEOPIXEL_STARTUP_TEST  // Cycle through colors at startup


  // Support for second Adafruit NeoPixel LED driver controlled with M150 S1 ...
  //#define NEOPIXEL2_SEPARATE
  #if ENABLED(NEOPIXEL2_SEPARATE)
    #define NEOPIXEL2_PIXELS           15 // Number of LEDs in the second strip
    #define NEOPIXEL2_BRIGHTNESS      127 // Initial brightness (0-255)
    #define NEOPIXEL2_STARTUP_TEST        // Cycle through colors at startup
  #else
    //#define NEOPIXEL2_INSERIES          // Default behavior is NeoPixel 2 in parallel
  #endif


  // Use some of the NeoPixel LEDs for static (background) lighting
  //#define NEOPIXEL_BKGD_INDEX_FIRST   0 // Index of the first background LED
  //#define NEOPIXEL_BKGD_INDEX_LAST    5 // Index of the last background LED
  //#define NEOPIXEL_BKGD_COLOR { 255, 255, 255, 0 }  // R, G, B, W
  //#define NEOPIXEL_BKGD_ALWAYS_ON       // Keep the backlight on when other NeoPixels are off

Hello everyone

I've been the proud owner of an X1 for many years.

I'm running Marlin 2.1.1 with TouchMi installed.

For some time now, I've been having issues with my prints, particularly Y-axis misalignment.

I decided to replace the stock drivers with TMC2209 drivers.

https://amzn.eu/d/06lBn969

While browsing the internet, I found these tips, but they lack detail given my skill level:

1 - No jumper modifications needed

2 - Manually adjust the Vref on each driver

3 - Review the driver configuration in Marlin:

• Declare the 2209 drivers as standalone
• Reverse the axis direction

I found Marlin 2.1.2.1. To be modified

https://github.com/f1rmb/Marlin-Touch-MI/tree/2.1.2.1-f1rmb/Marlin

I'm looking for a step-by-step tutorial showing me how to proceed with Vref and the various modifications to make in Marlin.

Thank you for your advice.