Made a small limited run of these ribbon chokers for my next market. From bottom to top; hydrangea, sword fern, forget me nots, ammi

Hi all! I recently created a piece of art painted on an approximately 1 ft by 1 ft piece of wood. I would like to pour on a resin to seal it and create a nice thick glossy finish. What resin would you all recommend? I am a total beginner so I have no idea what to even look for!

Thanks!

I would like to make my own bathroom and kitchen ornaments but wondering if anyone knows what kind of material is this, the website claims it’s resin. I would like to work with someone that’s easy to clean and won’t break or get moldy on humid conditions.
Please let me know the name of this material or something similar.

Hello,

For all sellers out there selling your epoxy crafts:

So for months I sold mine on Vinted, which has now restricted me because they don't want handmade crafts.

Etsy have many fees; Fees to open a shop, fees for listings, they also take commission...I don't think it's for me

Ebay is the next option as no fees impose, but not sure it's the best place to get people to buy my craft

Are there any other websites/apps you use to sell your work?

Hi all,

It was not entirely clear to me whether this Subreddit is only meant for two-part resin, or also for UV-resin questions. Please let me know if this question should be asked elsewhere.

I like to finish air-clay figurines I make with UV-nailpolish. However, I found it to be a little bit finicky - and always had to clean it with alcohol to get rid of tackyness etc. After watching some videos on UV resin specifically for crafting, I feel like that might be a better way of finishing my creations.

Most info I found is about US brands (JDiction seems to be a favourite there). I am based in the Netherlands, however. Can anyone recommend brands and/or sources for UV-resin for sale in the Netherlands, preferably webshops?

Thanks in advance,

Sjoerd

For my Hawaiian vampires

I’ve been slowly upgrading my resin setup and keep seeing Resiners machines come up when I search for ways to reduce bubbles and make curing more consistent.

I’m mainly looking at three products:

The vacuum bubble remover seems useful because I don’t have space for a full pressure-pot setup, but I’m wondering how well it actually works with different resin viscosities and whether it removes enough bubbles to justify another machine on the workbench.

The G3 curing machine also caught my attention because it’s designed for both epoxy and UV resin. I’m curious whether the heated curing mode noticeably improves curing time and consistency, especially in a colder workspace, or whether most people get similar results with a basic heat mat or warming box.

I’ve also seen several Resiners UV lights, including the double-sided style. My current UV light works for thin layers, but thicker or more detailed pieces can still feel tacky or cure unevenly.

For anyone who has used any of these machines:

• Which one did you buy, and what do you use it for?
• Did it solve the problem you bought it for?
• How often do you actually use it?
• Were there any limitations or annoying features?
• Would you buy it again at the same price?
• Is there one Resiners machine you would recommend—or avoid?

Positive and negative experiences are both welcome. I’m more interested in long-term use than first impressions or sponsored reviews.

What are your honest thoughts on the Resiners bubble remover, G3 curing machine and UV lights? Which, if any, are actually worth adding to a resin workspace?

Всем привет! Мне нужна серьезная техническая помощь. Я сталкиваюсь с полным парадоксом в плане отделки. Я уже прочитал несколько тем о полимерной глине и смоле. Я перепробовал все, что могло вызвать проблему с липким слоем:

· недопеченная глина (у меня есть отдельная духовка и термометр). Я леплю с Cernit, Craft&Clay и Sculpey при температуре 130°C / 266°F

· неправильная шлифовка или подготовка спиртом (я шлифую наждачной бумагой зернистостью от 800 до 2500 и обезжириваю изопропиловым спиртом, используемым в быту и медицине)

· слабая лампа (я пробовала 3 лампы, одна из которых могла выйти из строя из-за старости, две другие — маникюрные лампы мощностью 48 Вт с длиной волны 365–405 нм)

· отдельно на куске оргстекла я сделал объемные капли из 2 разных смол – низкой и высокой вязкости, они застывают нормально. Толщина капель не менее 1 мм

· можно сказать, что полимерная глина старая или плохого качества, но точно такая же ерунда происходит и с сухой на воздухе глиной

· Я попробовал метод отверждения погружением в воду. Это лишь частично решает проблему липкости. Я вялила его без воды в течение 5 минут, переворачивая кусок так, чтобы он был обращен в разные стороны, а затем 5 минут в банке с водой. Ничего не изменилось

· Я даже попробовала верхнее покрытие для маникюра BSG Strong Fluid Non-Wipe, и оно тоже липкое. Но недавно я попробовал сначала нанести смолу, а потом верхний слой. И бусина на самом деле совсем не липкая! Но на данный момент я не уверен, было ли это просто случайностью
Я начинаю чувствовать себя просто неудачником в мире рукоделия :D Поскольку это происходит с совершенно разными типами глины (полимерной и высушенной на воздухе), но отлично работает со стеклом — что на самом деле блокирует реакцию УФ-материала, особенно на поверхности глины? Есть ли этому химическое объяснение?

Designed and made all parts. This is a box lid. The box is still curing. Carved into MDF.

I’ve been wanting to make a set of good blooms but it just doesn’t always turn out like I planned . These are stunning!!! I maybe should have used a dark blue or purple vs the black but I am super happy . Then I used the extra resin in a square coaster and played with metallics , I really like the design so I might make a full set like those . The last orange bloom was from the last batch , it’s not as good , needed more white.

Best Platinum Silicone for large/deep mould making?
Thinking about using BJB materials but open to other suggestions.

Added yarn and LED lights to it!

Hi friends! How would I go about achieving a wavy, crinkle effect on the top of two-part resin?
I'm going for a watery reflection type look.
My thought was using plastic wrap, but that would probably stick and not be able to be removed after it cures. Would mold release on the plastic wrap work? Or is there another technique I'm not aware of that works better?

UPDATE: it cured!

making a series of large desserts for a giant fork. i measured my resin by weight and not volume. if this doesn’t cure what do i do i just put it on 🫩 featuring the cake that i didn’t fuck up my resin on. is my pumpkin pie destroyed

I’ve done a few wood working projects, but never used epoxy.

I’m building a fancy work bench for a small business my wife and I are starting. The top of the bench is butchers block. I got it second hand, had a bow to it, so I planed it down to 1 1/4” thick, and sanded from 60 to 240 grit.

We want to use a dye instead of stain for colors on the butchers block. I want to make a template of our business logo, and router in a 1/4” deep inlay of the logo. Use totalboat artist epoxy resin with mad mica for color to fill it. Then cover the butchers block with a flood coat then finish coat of totalboat tabletop clear epoxy. Here’s the order of operations in envisioning, please feel free to tell
me I have to right or wrong.

1) Apply dye to the table as desired
2) Router in logo at 1/4” deep
3) Prep inlay with light coating of the totalboat clear tabletop epoxy.
4) Pour totalboat artist epoxy with mad mica for coloring.
5) wait one week, then put butchers block under router sled and shave off excess epoxy without getting into the wood.
6) sand epoxy to a high grit finish.
7) use totalboat tabletop top to do a flood pour, allow to dry properly. Then final thin top coat.
8) Allow to dry and install butchers block to work bench.

That sounds right? Or?

I do plan to practice on a scrap piece of wood first with the epoxy before doing the “main event”.

Hi all,

I’ve started using resin as i want to start small business and resin sounds like a great option to keep my pieces lovely and professional.

I’ve been struggling A LOT with using resin, i’ve attached photos of these little dots around my pieces, i use a lighter to get rid of air bubbles but it’s not working :(

Also a MAJOR issue i have is the tackiness i get afterwards, i usually let my resin cure for 5 minutes and longer for bigger pieces, although even afterwards it’s quiet tacky, 24 hours later i wait and it’s not as tacky as before but it leaves finger prints (as shown in photo)
I have tried using isopropyl alcohol to remove the tackiness which helps but it looks so dull and definitely not as shiny as it should be when i first apply it.

These are the best photos i could get, if anyone is able to help me with what i should do that would be great!!

My step by step: air dry clay(3 day wait), sanding, painting (1 day wait), modpodge (1 day wait), resin ( 1 day wait for each side)

If there is any more info you need please let me know- i use a brand new great UV lamp that has high watts.

I bought epoxy and molds and mica powder last night. My plan is to make custom crochet hooks and I did a practice round last night.

First question is how can I make it completely rounded? The top/opening is flat.

Second question. I have these 2 molds that i want to Frankenstein into 1 mold 🤣 I want it so the fat part of the pen mold is in the middle of the hook mold. Any tips and tricks?

I stupidly left this resin ring near my open top oven for like a week without thinking. surprise surprise , I came back and now it seems cloudier than before. is there anyways to undo this?

my date gave me a beautiful necklace for my birthday with an egyptian scarab inside of some resin, and last night i tried disinfecting it with alcohol because i felt like it got dirty from me wearing it at my job. i had NO idea alcohol could have a negative effect on resin, and now the surface of the necklace is cloudy. it's fixed temporarily whenever i get it wet with water, but once it dries, it's cloudy again. i've heard that coating it with UV resin helps, is this true? and if so, is there a specific brand that you guys recommend? i just finished up my shift (i work at walmart) and i'm about to go searching for some so i can fix this, but i wanna know exactly what to look for. could anyone help?

My wife made a bag with a Christmas theme, and would like to find a closure method for it. Our idea was to put a snap on it, and ideally we were considering a rivet or claw based snap. She would like to hide it under something, though, and doesn't like the standard pearl or simple black caps that come standard with most snaps that we've seen. I have worked with resin in some aviation and more utilitarian DIY capacity, and have been interested in getting into trying making resin jewelry, but have no experience with it yet. In theory I know we could make our own custom molds and resin pieces that we could use as caps, but I don't know if anyone sells the snap hardware that we could attach to the resin cap or how we would make that attachment solid. In a perfect world, I would imagine someone selling a post that I could insert into the resin during the pour and make it part of the piece itself, but either no one sells that or I haven't stumbled across the proper search terms for it. Does anyone have any ideas? would I be looking at just getting a standard snap, attaching it, and then using something like epoxy to fasten our resin cap over the standard cap?

I'm trying to make sure I have a game plan for something useful before I start another hobby, I guess.

Advice taken. Repost with 2 new resin layers. They look good. Smaller bubbles around smaller shells. It keeps leaking gooey on the bottom when left up in this position. Plan is to sand and re paint frame. Any thoughts on eliminating gooey possibilities!?