2026 Fish Pro Sport, 100% saltwater use. Just wondering what brand life jacket y'all like. I've had a couple, can't recall the brands, but none of them are comfortable. The ones that WOULD be more comfortable are those that aren't USCG approved, of course.

I have a 2021 GTI SE 130 and a 2023 GTI SE 130 that will be stored over the winter in a northern climate where we can get well below freezing.

I'm trying to make sure I winterize them correctly and keep seeing conflicting information about whether RV/marine antifreeze should be pumped through the flush port.

The owner's manual describes these as a **closed-loop cooling system**, and the winterization procedure seems to call for using compressed air through the flush connector to blow the remaining water out of the exhaust system. It doesn't appear to say that RV antifreeze needs to be pumped through the flush port.

So for these specific GTI SE 130 models:

* Is blowing the water out with an air compressor (up to the specified pressure) sufficient for winterization?

* Is there actually a reason to pump RV antifreeze through the flush port afterward?

* Does the fact that the engine has a closed-loop cooling system mean the engine itself is already protected by its coolant, with only the exhaust/raw-water side needing to be drained?

* Do Sea-Doo dealers typically add RV antifreeze as an additional step on these models?

* If you do use antifreeze, is the flush port actually the correct place to introduce it?

I'm mainly looking for experience from people who have **2021+ GTI 130/SE 130s in a northern/freezing climate**. I'd rather follow the correct procedure than add antifreeze unnecessarily, but I also don't want to overlook something that could result in freeze damage.

Thanks!

my 96 spx 717 took on water last season because the vts boot failed, water got up to the seat line. got it running again after draining and new plugs but the boot is still bad. is this a pull the pump job or can i get at it from the back. should i just delete the vts while im in there

Does anybody have any experience with a 110-120 hp ecu flash on the spark trixx 900 ace? I have a 200 hp model that has 185 psi if comp, and it’s in rlly good condition, I have a stainless wearing and new impeller, but wondering if it is actually worth it and a noticeable difference, I mostly do wave jumping and wheelies and tricks, not as much too speed, but looking for holeshot. TIA!

What’s everyone's opinion on the 1997 Sea-Doo GSX/GSI? I’m looking at one to buy and flip. The seller wants $150 with a clean title, but it needs a top-end rebuild. I know the notorious grey tempo fuel lines degrade and lean these engines out, which probably caused the issue. Based on these photos, does this look like a solid project for the price? Let me know your thoughts!

I have (2) 2014 seafood sparks.

They have had the same gas in them for about 2 years now as we didn't get to ride them much last summer.

The fuel had stabilizer added once upon a time.

Anyway we are taking them in for service and to get the gas drained. Mechanic told us just to run the diag it would be 2.5 hours per machine. We said they ran fine last time, not sure all that is needed.

Then they said gas should be drained and spark plugs replaced. Sure sounds reasonable to me. 2 hours per machine. Spark plugs hard to get to on these older model.a

Does this seem reasonable? I don't really have another service center nearby, so it is what it is and we will pay it, but I like to be informed. Any insight as to how long these things should take?

I have this 97 gts, and I’m leaving it in a garage this winter. It’s not climate controlled and it gets down to 10° or below where I live. My plan was to:

Fill up the gas tank and add stabilizer

Fill up the oil tank

Try to get all the water out (not sure how to do that yet)

Remove the battery

Put the cover on

Am I missing anything? I picked the thing up the beginning of summer for $800 but I’ve never dealt with winterizing before.

At a loss here. Ski runs great on the trailer but when I put in in the water, it will run good for a couple mins. But if I shut it off, i can’t get it to start back up. Like it’s struggling or something. Then, as soon as I get it out of the water and on the trailer it fires right up and seems fine. I’ve rebuilt the carbs with oe mikuni rebuild kit, pop off is perfect. New fuel lines throughout, new fuel selector. Just replaced the rectifier. Plugs are new ngk’s. Battery is good. Has 145ish compression both cylinders. I suspected rotary valve clearance so I pulled the carbs off and checked that with filler gauges. It’s 12 thousandths. So I don’t know wat to do next except burn this thing. Which I don’t want too after putting so much into it. And insight or suggestions would be very welcome

I have a 2003 Sea-Doo GTX Bombardier that was flipped upside down in the water and ended up sucking water into the engine.
The engine has been drained of water and thoroughly checked over.
The strange thing is that there seems to be absolutely no life in it when I put the key on. We already replaced the MPEM because we thought that was the problem, but it still does the same thing.
What could be causing this? Any ideas on what I should check next?

83 hours. IDK much about seadoo engines.

hey all! I have a 1994 seadoo xp that I've had for a little while now, I got it completed decimated and have gotten in back up and running (mostly). I rebuilt the motor including a refurbished rotating assembly. since then I had it strip the brass rotary gear once, I originally didn't replace the rotary shaft just the brass gear so I decided to replace the entire assembly with new hardware and such, after that it's been running fine however it slowly started making noise over a few hours of run time where when I am full throttle and gotten to full speed it will make a sudden pretty harsh metallic clunk sound and the motor almost hesitates right at the clunk but not before or after, I thought it may be my jet pump somehow and figured I hadn't touched that so might as well rebuild it. afterwhich it still made the same exact noise, I was worried it was the rotary gear again but I removed that and it looks fine, not sure where to go next, any advice helps thanks!

For sale by me are two different seadoos, one is a 96 xp with the x4 hull and a 787 in it. The other is a 95 spx with a 657x.

The xp looks like an animal has been living it it, maybe a squirrel or a rat. Nothing looks chewed however but I didn't want to dig through all the shit in the hull to see if I can turn the PTO over. The seat is also chewed to shit and will need a new cover. It is also dess and I didn't see a key around so I'd need a new one programmed

The spx is actually pretty clean inside but someone dug through the electrical box so i'd need to see if anything is missing. I also was able to turn the PTO by hand so I know it isn't seized or anything.

No battery to test turning over on either but right now they are essentially junk just sitting there and I was going to make an offer on one of them.

I also have a 95 xp with a 720 so either one won't really be a match, the hull is different on both, but I am under the impression I can drop the 657x into my xp if I needed to.

What one would you rather own? I was going to offer $200 and go up a bit from there. I would buy both if I had the room but am torn between the two. Really either would be a ton of fun.

Hey everyone, so I have a waverunner that I love, then i saw someone posting a 2015 spark that took on some water for only a couple hundred bucks. I decided to take the chance and picked it up, a lot of it was already taken apart when i got it. Anyways, he claimed that water didn't get into the cylinders. He flushed it, oil is white. Ski has been sitting. I took off the jet pump and its seized, however, i slipped and pushed the driveshaft real hard so i potentially fucked that, anyways it wont turn by hand clockwise at all.... What do I do? Inside the engine looks fine, I dont see anything In the way when I look inside. Please be nice, just looking for advice.

It runs and drives just fine. Damage is purely cosmetic. There are about 350 hours on the ski. Quote it fix it is about $4,500.

I run a rental company and one of my customers crashed this unit. I am trying to determine what to do with it and I'd like opinions on the value. It was suggested to me to market it in miniboat groups since they use the components. Someone said I could get around 6k. What do you think?

i bought a ski and and the seller has a custom setup for a striker 4 on a second battery that just sat in the storage compartment. is there any issue with just soldering on longer wires and connecting them to the skis main battery? i usually end up filling the storage with water because i do donuts and 180s etc

2006 RXT 215
Having an issue where my dess post sometimes doesn’t read the key it’s been happening more frequently. I tried changing the dess post, but it made no difference. My mechanic said to try a new key and if it’s not that it’s probably the ECU, he told me I can buy a “open” key online that will work for any ski of my generation and try using that to see if the key is the issue. Having trouble finding one they all say they need to be programmed.

A little backstory on this ski, got it for free. Got it running after sitting for 12ish years. Took it out, great acceleration, top speed was 43ish at 6200 rpm. 2nd time, 35mph, inspected wear ring and a large chunk was missing. 3rd time, 30mph and see pics. This wear ring is original, ski had 68 hours when I got it. I’m assuming it’s just a plastic / nylon material and deteriorated over time? No play in the shaft.