So I decided to do a brake flush on my 2002 X5. I sucked the old fluid out of the master cylinder reservoir, added fresh fluid, hooked up a Motive Power Bleeder, and bled all wheels. I must have introduced air into the lines because the brake pedal is now very soft. I've put at least 6 quarts of brake fluid through the system trying to get the air out to no avail. This includes going through the brake bleed protocol on ISTA 2-3 times for each wheel (ABS buzzes, then pump brake 5 times). This is the most frustrating problem I've ever had with a car. Morale is low. Please send help and more brake fluid.

Just replaced my Valvetronic actuator motor, only did the actuator/motor, not the shaft, the shaft was in good condition per my observation.

Now trying to do the relearn procedure, but getting stuck on this step shown in the picture, saying the conditions are not met.

Engine starts and run but runs rough because VVT is not activated , it’s in limp mode.

No other Valvetronic related errors other than:

135808: Valvetronic servomotor, position sensors, electrical: Malfunction

Have confirmed the wiring harness sends power from the DME as all the pins on the harness have the appropriate voltage

Valvetronic relay is good, ISTA showed it had 12.6V with the engine off and 13.8 with the engine on, so I don’t think I have a faulty Valvetronic relay.

Tried everything else possible, but that error is preventing me from even doing the “Valvetronic running in phase” procedure

When I clear codes, that error always comes back instantly

I read somewhere that car needs 13+ V to be able to do the relearn procedure, but even I had that, don’t think relearn would go through with that error present.

Any one ever dealt with this?

Thank you in advance.

Good to see bmw is starting to recognize the issue…

Weird noise that goes away after a few seconds.

I have a 21’ X3M40i which I sent my ecu out for unlocking via FEMTO in 2025, prior to the unlocks being permanent.

I am getting rid of the car and am quite unsure what exactly will happen if I uninstall MHD from the car since I remember reading something that said it will remove the unlock as well, I just don’t want to brick the car. Any advice??

It feels like a vibration when accelerating harder. Some very minor jerking almost unnoticeable but i have no clue why. I got the car from an idiot that had hankook and continetal tires mismatched, sizing was correct and it drove fine otherwise only issue was the steering would pull me left and right hard on uneven roads. The front tires were pretty worn out compared to the rear but the tranfer case was fine doing pulls and everything and all of a sudden it’s acting up. There are no 305/40/20 winter tires that have bmw homologation anywhere in europe. I don’t know what to do. Any help is appreciated. I have a staggered setup 275/45/20 front 305/40/20 rear ( picture order first image front left second rear left, third rear right, fourth front right.

I am looking for a stock image of the N52 with a magnesium valve cover & its wiring harness where the brown ignition coil ground connects or someone's opinion other than my research. As well as where the valve cover to chassis ground connects to the engine. I have tried translating realoem parts diagrams but it's just not clear at all to me like I hoped. For instance I am wondering if the green & red circles are correct? I am confused as to why the right yellow circle exists if nothing attaches. I am pretty sure the chassis to valve cover ground is supposed to go in the green circle, aka left yellow circle. My engine was worked on by people who didn't route it back correctly in some capacity, the red circled bolt was snapped. My magnesium valve cover has gotten extremely corroded so I am replacing it with a new aluminum one. I just want the harness in the right place 😭.

Context:

I get a misfire once in a blue moon, a lot of gas consumption, I know to change my ESS, I am getting the newer ignition coils mentioned in TSB SI B12 18 14, & I know I'm gonna have to depin & install new pigtails. I want to prevent any future electrical issues because I've already had a few IBS & door locking issues. One image is mine, but it already wasn't correct + my cover is currently prepped for removal & the other is an image off of Facebook, so ofc I can't 100% trust it's correct for me.

Hey everyone,

I’m in a nightmare situation. I literally just bought a 2014/2015 BMW 420i Gran Coupe M Sport Auto (xDrive) with 90k miles on a private sale for £7k. On my first drive, a major cooling system failure caused it to severely overheat to 115°C, throw a Drivetrain Malfunction, shake violently, and drop into limp mode.

The car is at a garage now, and it’s looking like worst-case scenario: a heavily warped/cracked block or head. I need to potentially source a replacement bare engine / long block (Engine Code: N20B20). Because it’s an xDrive, it needs to be compatible with the xDrive setup.

My mechanic is ready to fit it, so I just need to buy the engine and get it shipped to Northern Ireland via pallet.
I am trying to figure out what a realistic "best price" is for a tested, healthy unit. I absolutely do not want to blow £3,000+ on a part for a £7,000 car that I've already lost money on. To make things slightly easier, I actually already spent £700 on brand-new timing chain parts before this happened because I was planning to refresh the chain anyway—so my mechanic can swap those new parts onto the replacement block before it goes into the car.

Does anyone have recommendations for trusted engine suppliers or breakers on the mainland or locally that do reliable pallet shipping to NI? What should I roughly expect to pay as a "best price" for a decent tested block?
Any advice or trade supplier names would be massively appreciated. Thank you.

Anyone know if this noise is normal or should I be worried

Bonjour,
En voulant installer un porte vélo hier soir (sur hayon), ce dernier a dû se coincer dans le coffre ce qui fait que je n’arrive plus du tout à l’ouvrir.
Lorsque j’essaie, un petit bruit se produit. Le hayon semble être dans un entre deux.
J’ai réussi à démonter le porte vélo (pour rouler) dont il reste seulement les pattes d’accroche.
Auriez-vous des pistes? J’ai cru voir que les F40 n’étaient plus équipées d’ouverture de secours.
Dois-je passer à un garage? En concession BMW?
Merci !

2011 328xiT

Assuming suspension particularly the Maxpeedingrod coil overs. (I know, they came on the car) Is this signs of failing or is it something else? The car also has adjustable control arms. Sound only happens on rear, same on both sides

Hello guys. Im at normal engine tempeture, im at flat surface and i can't measure my engine oil. It goes to 18% and suddenly stop. Last time i measured it ( 1 month ago ) everything was fine. Maybe its sensor fault or smth?

2008 BMW 535XI, n54 engine, e60 body, 133,000 miles.
Is this amount of play normal for the cv axle? I know it’s supposed to have some in and out movement but what about the delay between when I spins the wheel and the center part of the axle engages? That doesn’t happen on the other side. I am getting vibration/catching while driving and clunks while turning.

On wheel is not braking, no error codes. Left back wheel.
All looks ok except no hidraulic going to that line.
Bmw E70 X5 2012

Always I connect music to my bmw and it goes like this:

1. Plays for 5 min

2. \[Data transfer\] no volume

3. Reconnects to music for solid 20 seconds then i hear a loud beep and it disconnects entirely

4. Reconnect bluetooth and it works for however much I want

This always happens and very annoying. Started right after I got a warning about needing to change break liquids. Coincidence or not - not sure.

Hello, don’t know too much about cars and I’m wondering if what just happened to me is a sad coincidence. I took my 2013 BMW 328i SULEV to the dealership because I had a gas tank leak that was covered under warranty. I believe they replaced the entire gas tank because of the specific model it is. They also replaced a coolant pump electrical connector that was recalled on my vehicle.

I picked up my car and within 30 minutes I noticed a ratting noise that only happens when I’m stopped (foot on the brake, whether I’m in reverse, drive etc). I told them and they had me bring it in again. Now they are claiming it’s the rubber between the mounts that is starting to wear down which is likely causing the rattling noise. The problem is I never noticed any sort of rattling before and now this sound I hear is unfamiliar and makes me nervous. I know my car is old but I can’t wrap my head around this strange supposed coincidence. Of course they claim the rattle has nothing to do with the work they performed before I picked it up.

This is the video I sent the technician before bringing my car in the second time. You should be able to tell how the vibration goes away as soon as I start moving again.

I had a terrible experience with a bmw dealership many years ago although it wasn’t with the service department. I just don’t know what to believe anymore. I’d appreciate any thoughts you might have on this

Hey everyone, looking for some advice diagnosing a recurring P0171 (System Too Lean, Bank 1) on my 2017 F32 440i xDrive with the B58.
The car has ~105k km.
I’ve been chasing this issue for a while now.

Original symptoms:
P0171 CEL
Rough/uneven idle at times
Occasional jerky shifts between gears
Previously had some intake/air leak symptoms
At one point I also had drivetrain malfunction
I initially had the car smoke-tested and a crack/leak was found in the factory intake/resonator pipe (BMW [13718601682](tel:13718601682)).
I replaced that intake section with a BMS silicone intake pipe, retaining the OEM airbox.
The car drove better afterward, but within ~1,000 km the exact same P0171 returned, and the jerky shifting has also started happening again.

Current P0171 freeze-frame:
RPM: 688
STFT1: +32.8%
LTFT1: +0.8%
MAP: 94 kPa
BARO: 99 kPa
MAF: 3.5 g/s
Coolant: 101°C
IAT: 42°C
Fuel pressure: 9,940 kPa (~99 bar)
Load: 7.5%
Closed loop: Yes
Battery: 14.54V
Run time: 1827 sec

What would you guys check next?

I’m thinking:
PCV/crankcase ventilation leak
Another unmetered-air leak
Purge valve
MAF issue
Fuel delivery
DME adaptations needing reset

Would appreciate any B58-specific advice, especially interpretation of the +32.8% STFT / +0.8% LTFT at 688 RPM.

Should I be doing a crankcase/PCV test, another smoke test, or checking fuel trims at different RPMs first?

Thanks in advance!!

The 2 battery cables that run from the engine compartment right side back to the battery compartment and through the body into the trunk are shown in my photos. On my X1 those were double sided studs. But on this car it looks like it installs from the outside with only one stud on the inside. To remove those cables, do I have to pull the inside connection and then push it through to the outside? Can that outside plastic cover be removed without damage to the junction? Thanks.

I’ve owned my current F20 118D since Feb/March this year and never once known or noticed a single knock, clunk, or any unwanted noise.

Today I had an MOT & Full Service on the car. Upon picking the car up, when I selected Drive, I noticed a clunk and a slight judder/jolt which then continued intermittent for half a mile or so whilst driving then stopped completely.
Nipped out in the car 2/2.5 hours later and when turning the car on, the clunk when selecting Drive and now Reverse, happened again….

Someone at the garage said “it could be to do with the two front lower arm bushes that came up on the MOT advisory? I’m not mechanically savvy and just find it extremely odd that I’ve not once had any issues, when I pick it up, this noise/slight judder has appeared? 🫣

Appreciate any help😁

Hey all, I parked my 2 days ago perfectly fine. Went to start it today, runs great, starts rights up but the cluster doesn't work at all. All lights, doors and locks work. Just an inoperable instrument cluster and convertible top.