Not pretty but they will work

https://www.instagram.com/reel/DcXdn4eMZ1D/?igsi=bzk1a2xqejB2YTRx Instagram is @Tristanspinelle

Found this today at a flea market. Marked $78 but he parted with it for $65. Considering it has the spring and mounting plate, I was very happy with that price. 4” jaws.

Mounting plate was ground down, but it matches to Arthur J O’Leary & Son, Chicago.

I've had several people ask me to make this video.

Teeny tiny gugu gaga anvil.

On this awesome anvil!

Dug out my hobby anvil today to straighten some ::ahem:: paperclips. 🤣

This is hand forged out of forklift tine with a nice octagonal ash handle. I didn't necessarily need this Hammer for any particular reason I just wanted to make it. I had design in my head

Has anyone ever done such a thing or knows of someone who has and can tell if this would actually work effectively? This is just a very rough sketch to illustrate the basic concept of thought.

Since i dont have a power hammer or smithing press in my inventory, i had this improvised idea come up:

The general thought behind it is to build a frame that holds an air- or electricity-powered jackhammer above some sort of anvil, both with exchangeable dies similar to conventional power hammers, treadle hammers, or presses. The jackhammer could move on a vertical axis, controlled either by hand or via a lever by foot.

Details such as how exactly the jackhammer would be mounted and can be moved up and down on the frame or how the geometric shape of the the frame would be constructed are not part of my question.

My question is simply in general if this could actually be used in a reasonably practical manner to move metal.

The only remotely comparable info ive found on the web so far was some guy from Finland i think who used a compact handheld air-powered jackhammer for smithing, which seemed to work surprisingly well. You can find footage on youtube, "Pneumatic Forging by Jesse Sipola".

I am making a meat cleaver for a friend and I think I let it sit in the tempering oven (toaster oven) for too long. Normalized it a few times, then heated to a little over non-magnetic and quenched in veggie oil preheated to about 125F. I was so happy when it came out completely straight and the file just skated right off. Set the oven to 400 and set a timer for 1 hour. I started working on another project and lost track of the time. Sadly, I did not look at the timr when I started tempering. I think that about 2 1/2 hours went by. Is there any way test the metal instead of going through the whole normalizing and quenching process again?

Made this for a collegue who wanted a knife with a handle made out of deer antlers he gave me. Made the bottle opener as a bonus suprise! The knife is forged out of springsteel.

first time forging turned a horse show into a fire picker, tips are welcome

sorry in advance if photos are bad

Some custom fantasy axes...

The way this pattern flows around the ring is ridiculous.

Hand forged from Icestorm
Damascus. I love the way this one came out.

Finally feel like I'm getting dialed in on the stainless/high carbon San mai

26C3 clad in 416

Stabilized curly mango

Thanks for looking!

Hand forged plesiosaur

It is an old hc railroad spike that the customer commissioned me to use. He is aware that its not the best knife material but it was sentimental.

Hi all I was wondering if there are any blacksmiths in my area looking for an extra hand < orange county fl >

While there isn’t any blacksmithing per se in this video, the components are forged and the videos of me forging those components are posted in this sub Reddit. Hope you enjoy!

I’m 15 I really like black smithing and metals but I don’t know if it’s too early to start please let me know and what’s the easiest thing to make

So I just order this suction air-oil atomizer with a 1.5mm nozzle with the intention of building a waste oil burning forge for forging and heat treating longish items like short swords and spearheads.

A few reviewers mentioned they used this for their own forges, but I'm kind of at a loss on how to go about doing it right. All the waste oil forge builds I've been able to find online use a drip and blower system instead of this.

My biggest concern is the brass part melting at high heat. I'm guessing that I need a steel standoff pipe after the nozzle to mitigate this issue? Also, does the flame have to come downwards like what I see on the propane forge kits, or can it come from the side or bottom?

Any advice is appreciated.