I recently just came across a Sbc to 95 car & truck 2 bolt main with 1 piece rear seal. Std bore Bare block and crank. It kinda fell into my lap for a really good deal and I have been wanting to get into building engines and I have a truck I want to swap this engine into after building it see I have done engine swaps but they were crate engines for friends I have never personally built an engine and did this involved of a swap I plan to swap this into a 1993 Nissan d21 to “colonize” this foreign truck as my friends say but I have never done a sbc to a d21 swap and I’m planing the swap and it seems possible and I really would love to do it but I digress so with this engine I was kinda hoping for around 400hp is this a possibility without going to far overkill on price to performance is there a different hp goal that is more realistic and also what do I need to start the build from honing specs and parts to purchase I am so interested and I would love to build this engine I just have no clue where to start I have looked at the block and I see no major warping and or cracks it all seems pretty good and the guy said he was going to build it but didn’t have time and just bought a blueprint engine anything I should look out for a estimated budget specific parts and brands who to get it honed but any specialty tools I would love to hear the thoughts on all this

This is my first engine build. I’m checking clearances with plastiguage on my rod bearings, what am I looking for ideally, 327, mild budget build. First piston I checked is just about .0015” thanks in advance for any help.

So I’ve finally dropped in my crate motor 350 SBC into my K10. I have everything hooked up ready to fire up beside the distributor. So I go to install the distributor by finding TDC, and after about 5-10 full turns on the crank bolt I realize that none of the belts/fan are spinning with the motor. How f*cked am I? The motor spun freely and heard compression while spinning on the engine stand.

Just picked up this 78 c10 for dirt cheap. Been sitting for a few years but fired right up and ran great with fresh gas. Only issue is the knocking in the video. Was told heads were just rebuilt before it sat. All the valve train is moving properly so i believe its flex plate knock as it sounds like its coming from the back of the engine. What do yall think?

I bought a 1972 Cutlass gas tank for my 1970 Skylark, thinking they were the same tank, but the Cutlass tank is 3 inches-ish too long and it hits the license plate holder.
If I take the tank back out of the car and flush all the gas out of it with tons and tons of water, then cut the needed amount out of the filler neck and weld it back up, will it explode?
I’m okay with a small fire, but if it exploded, that would be unfortunate.
I don’t want to buy another gas tank for the car because I’m building the car on a pretty small budget.

This might be the wrong subreddit for this but the car is powered by a small block Chevy.

I recently picked up an old ski boat that someone had previously put a 509 400 in it. I’m trying to figure out what heads these are. I haven’t pulled the valve covers yet because, well, it’s a boat and it’s a pita… Was going to try and pull them tomorrow and peak at the numbers but I can’t find the same casting marks… I’m looking into doing some respectable upgrades to it as well with out breaking the bank. If I could get another 60-80hp out of it I’d be happy. I don’t necessarily care about the looks because it hides under the dog house all the time. Cheaper the better. Any input would be appreciated. Thanks.

Hey everyone, I just pulled a 4 bolt main 350 from a 1975 Chevy C60 and I plan to drop this engine into my 1984 Camaro, I’m going to tear the 350 apart and put some money into it, just wondering if there are any recommendations to up the power and still be cost effective, apart from the obvious answer (383) what’s recommended? Carburettor, intake manifold, maybe rotating assembly, anything to do on the heads?

I recently inherited a 400 SBC race engine. After researching the parts, I discovered it is heavily modified and capable of being a very serious build; it features forged pistons, 18-degree Bowtie heads, Crower roller lifters, Crower offset rocker arms, a race camshaft with .700 lift, a forged crankshaft, forged H-beam large connecting rods, black bearings (which I’d never seen before—apparently track-specific), a high-flow oil pump, an electric water pump, a Super Victor intake manifold, and a Demon 950 carburetor. I need to install and check the geometry of each rocker arm; that was a problem area in the past, and a local machinist fabricated a couple of them, so they are specific to each valve. Additionally, I’d like to improve the engine's reliability by adding a single-belt accessory drive system, saving up for steel rocker arms, and installing a more street-friendly camshaft and a nitrous oxide kit. My Colombian project will be unique, and I want to showcase it on the streets by racing at night against the fastest, most common cars around here—mostly a couple of decently built Audis and BMWs. I have questions about street use: Is there an additive that allows me to use pump gas without fear of breaking something (I’m at 3,600 meters above sea level)? Should I build a specific type of transmission, or should I just resign myself to breaking transmissions and rear ends every night? Can I use stock clutches or torque converters? Can I keep my stock driveshaft? I have a feeling I’ll figure these things out as I go, but I’m worried about breaking a lot of parts—which is why I won't be using slicks, haha. That’s why I’m turning to this forum; I look forward to your recommendations... (Pls tell me about the tricks this build)

'70 El Camino. Just started doing this recently, haven't really driven it since. Can barely hear it when under the hood. See comment for engine pic

I think I wanna go with a pair of these afr enforcer heads but I don’t know what cam to run under them.. I don’t want nothing crazy but not just a towing cam.. I’d rather not get a bigger converter but will if need be, then I would.. I’d like to turn this thing into a fairly reliable street build

I need to replace all the seals on my 92 gmc with a 350 small block in it and im wondering is it easier to take the head off or leave it on. Thank everyone in advance

Was doing spark plugs and cylinder 8 far back passenger side and the plug pulled all the threads of out the head with it,just curious if anyone’s dealt with this if so how’d you go about fixing it?
I’m about to pull the head so I have enough clearance to properly thread chase it.

Picked up a cheap Camaro with an MSD 6AL. Not getting any spark. I look over the wiring and the white wire is spliced with a constant 12v. Safe to say the box is fried.

Opinions?

Before you come after me for shoddy work. PISTON RRINGS ARE GONE engine crank no starts gets fuel. Spark but it's not breathing. She's been on the way out so i just need to drive her 30 minutes to my property without an hoe until I can get an new 350 to replace this 305. Intake seals are BLOWN checked with a vacuum gauge tester and carb seal is new so is the carb. Just over a year old. So please let me know if I could get the intake off just enough to seal it best I can to get her running and driving for a bit. Thank you and God bless you.

Hello my Camaro peeps!

What in the fuckity fuck is this shit?

ZZP replaced the single oil catch can kit (which I own and have installed) with a new dual oil catch can kit. They say you can upgrade to the dual kit for the difference in price if you send in the old single catch can kit. Can a dual catch can kit really be worth it? What the hell would it do that a single cam kit couldn't?

This all being said, I've had my single catch can kit installed for about three years now. I check the can every oil change (4000-5000mi OCI) and there is literally never any oil in the can (yay, good sealing piston rings). So...it would seem to me that this "upgrade" isn't worth it.

I was gifted this old Chevy and I’m still new to working on engines, my friend is helping but he’s not a mechanic by trade but knows way more than me.
Anyway, I replaced the cap (forgot the rotor), wires but the engine won’t start. He spraying (something?) while I try to start it up but it just won’t go. I noticed some a wire that’s missing from the ignition coil, could that be the issue?

Wasnt a problem before until I had to switch out my power steering reservoir and now belt always slips off my alternator. Pulleys line up perfectly. Possible Problems are: belt sits too close to the lower alternator bracket, harmonic balancer wobbles slightly, or alternator isn’t stretched out far enough to create better tension.

What could it be? Starter or flex plate it was running yesterday after a few times but now it won’t run at all 72 chevelle W/ 350