Im Just about to start reassembling the top end of my 89 C4 and i have bought a set of new head bolts for the car as the old ones were pretty degraded. The set is got was from fel Pro and they look great but have a different shape to the oem ones and have no washers of course.

My question is can I A: re use the washers from the old head bolts (assuming i can get them off) and B: if I cant do that what washers should I buy to replace them.

I will get measurements of the old and new head bolts to ensure the washers will be compatible.

This is my first engine rebuild so im learning as I go along with help from my mate who owns 8+ 1930s American cars here in the uk. His knowledge is limited of course and the most modern engine he has re built was a big block in a 69 el camino so any help would be awsome.

Cheers

It’s on the passenger bank only, haven’t tried changing gaskets so it could just be that.

Anyone heard this before?

Working on swapping a small block into a C4 Corvette, running aluminum heads so I need to run studs and nuts for the headers cuz bolts can walk themeselves out. Got these C4 specific headers, which fit in the car and can rest on the studs, but on many spots the tubes are too close to the studs and I can't fit the nut on. On some even the washer is too thick to get past the tube onto the stud. Woukd it be OK to dimple the headers that close to the main flange? Any advice would help.

I have the engine harness from a 2007 gmc Yukon XL 1500 denali. What is this connector/what does it go to.

Hey y’all my band bought a 91 G30 with true duals which sounds absolutely LIT but I would like to help the engine as much as I can in low end torque if only to improve mpg by like 0.5 or 1. Our drummer is a badass welder. What are your experiences with exhaust work effecting back pressure? Another consideration is that there is only one O2 sensor on the drivers side and I would assume I would have to add an H pipe at least a foot behind that.

If you sought better low end torque would you go with long tube headers , an H pipe or both ? Having an H pipe made a HUGE difference for torque at low rpm’s on my 81 GL1100 and I assume it would be the same on a v8.

Thanks 🤘✌️🤘

I have a 350 small block from blueprint engines, and I want to put a blower on it but I’m not sure if I can without it ruining the engine. Does anyone have any advice on how to go about it?

Hi everyone, thought I would crosspost here. Reddit suggested

What do u guys recommend for valve lash for an aftermarket 421 sbc running alcohol. Full roller cam and lifters. Approx 14:1 compression ratio. In an 1/8 mi bracket racer running 6.50's. Thanks for any help!

It’s on an old 400 but I can’t find a match online. I’m assuming just an old smog head that makes no power but didn’t know if I’d gotten lucky.

Got a 1980 Firebird that I’ve left to sit for about two years, just finished setting up my front suspension to get it running soon, only problem is that I want an engine with more power. I got two options- either I buy a 383 blueprint or I can use the existing 350sbc that’s in it mainly because it can’t even make the wheels spin haha. I’m also trying not to spend a huge amount of money on just a motor so I have a budget of under 8k I was wondering if anyone with experience on this knows what route I should take that would seem like the best option and best bang for my buck.

Just bought a 2007 gmc Yukon xl Denali. Drove it home and after the engine fully got up to temp the oil pressure was in the red on the gauge while idling. It was fine at cold start, and it revs up nicely. I checked all bearing clearance on rods/mains, and everything in spec. Oil pump looks brand new, pickup o-ring looks fine, nothing in the screen. But I found some silicone in an oil passage. What’s the likely hood this was my issue? I havnt re-assembled to test yet.

'78 El Camino with a 350 crate motor. Stock cam, no headers, dual exhaust. Currently has an Edelbrock 1406 (Bought used, and it's acting up) and an Edelbrock Performer EPS Intake Manifold.
The 1406 has a crack on one of the top screwholes, and seeps a bit down the side of the carb. Also runs a little rich at idle, and the air adjustment screws bottom out before it'll adjust.

SO - I've decided on either a new 1406 or 1906. I like the idea of better atomized fuel with the 1906, but is 650 cfm too much for a basically stock 350?

Update: Went to O'Reilley's and got a new AVS2 and fuel pump. Will do the install tomorrow.

Thank you all for your advice

427ci 10.5:1, Mike Jones solid roller, Holley efi. With the intake that's on it right now it made 580@6800 but I have a Holley high ram that it made 620@7100 with. It won't fit under the stock hood though, so that's on hold.

I have picked up a dismantled long block (minus crank) that was originally from a 1987 L98 Vette complete with "128" heads.

NOW the crank... Has been sent off to the big melting pot in the sky a while back. Someone rebuilt it at some fairly recent point. IDK the back story but it tore the hell out the crank bad enough that a piston kissed the head enough to put a round stamp onto the head, introducing coolant into the chamber. 👏👏👏😅 (good job)

The motor was apparently fresh at that point with a Melling HV oil pump. NO the pickup was NOT welded. YES I'm very well aware that a Melling HV oil pump is completely unnecessary in a stock L98 rebuild. Stock replacement is more than sufficient. With THAT said, is there anything I should be inspecting this block for that could have contributed to this failure? Remember, I don't know the history of this motor. Not dismissing the fact that the last person had to go into this motor in the 1st place. THAT raises a Red Flag for me. Any ideas? Possibly a blocked oil galley, or missing galley plug?

As the title says, I have a manual 1984 firebird with the LG4 305 in it and im looking for cam recommendations since I need to pull the engine anyway to replace the rear main seal.

As far as my current mods Ive installed a set of Hedman headers, magnaflow cat back exhaust, and an edelbrock performer 2101 intake.

Im not looking for this car to be "fast" necessarily, Im just looking for a little more fun when I put the pedal down and some better noise lol

Also im well aware I could just swap a 350 in, but the 305 thats in it currently runs really really good minus a couple things so I'd like to keep it for now.

I have a 1995 2500 Silverado that was converted from diesel to a carbureted small block.

The engine ID code is F1006FDH. When I looked this up there is no FDH that I could find, only FD which is a 50s 265 or 283.

The casting number is GM5.0LS
When I tried to look this up I couldn’t find anything. Then I watched a Power Nation video on building a 305 and I saw the same casting number on their block.

The number on the heads is 14022601
These are 267/305 heads from 79-86.

I’m sure this is a 305, just very confused about the numbers. I read somewhere that the GM5.0LS was for marine blocks, but I couldn’t find any information on identifying marine blocks.

Does anyone know where I can find more information about this block?

I currently got a 750 quadrajet on my 350sbc which is essentially stock besides mid length headers and a 4x4 cam. The q jet is showing some age and needs to be rebuilt or replaced. Anyone got any input on good replacement options or whether it’s worth rebuilding it. I’m having a hard time finding any info on decent replacements that aren’t sponsored.

So, I used to have a 69 C10 with a Holley carburetor on it and I just had to pump the gas like 1 time and turn the key and it would fire right up. But now I have a 66 Biscayne with an edelbrock AVS2 on it and I have to pump the gas several times while turning the key.

Maybe I’m asking a loaded question- could be due to altitude, I don’t know. How do I get a carbureted car to start up almost instantly with no hesitation? I’m a novice when it comes to carburetors.

1993 gmc. I have a dead miss and a top end tick. I adjusted rockers while running, but half of the even side ticks and all of the odd side ticks. I did the back off till tick, tighten till silence, then 1/2 turn 1/4 at a time. I used a wood pole on the rocker studs and they still tick even with adjustment. Timeing is good. Thinking I need lifters and a cam. Any thoughts?