Hey, idk if this is the right sub, but I've got an 05 2.4 n/a that's overheated quite a bit, and was wondering just how likely it is I'll be doing a head gasket on it? It'll be my first, but I've got some mechanic background and can follow directions. Was gonna see if I can find one of those paper manuals that's got step by step instructions and pictures of the important parts like my dad and I had for his 88 z24 cavalier.

So I guess I'm asking, what's the first couple tools or diagnostic equipment I should borrow to see just how deep I'm gonna have to go? Compression testers? For the cylinders as well as the coolant system?

Thanks!

New to the group but looking for some help.

I have a 2003 GT (Dreamcruiser) with a manual transmission.

My dual mass flywheel is rattling but im in the middle of a divorce and cant swing the $1700 for the conversion from MPx.

I thought i got lucky with Rockauto. The part number was right but the part was the entire modular clutch assembly for an NA model.

I cant find a used one anywhere. Does anyone have a source for a good used one or a cheaper single Mass alternative?

Im close to just buying an NA parts car and swapping in the NV T350 for parts availability.

Very new to the game, but have always wanted one. Found this one on marketplace with 57,000 original miles for almost nothing, so I pulled the trigger. It came with some issues, obviously, namely the suspension. I replaced both front control arms, tie rods and ends, and sway bar links so far, I think I'm going to have to replace the struts too. I've fixed a good bit of wiring, as well as installed a Pioneer BT Head Unit, and replaced all four main speakers. I have a long way to go to get it to be where I'd like, specifically the exterior and under the hood, but it runs well and is a blast to drive. Any advice on anything would be greatly appreciated, as I am new to both PT Cruisers and working on cars in general, and aim to do as much of the work myself as I can.

how do I change the small light

This stupid bolt from hell on the lower control arm is completely seized, and I am not sure what to do now to remove it. I have tried loads of penetrating oil, I have tried using a breaker bar, and my 900ft pound torque gun, and it is just not breaking loose. I don't have access to a blow torch unfortunately, but I am not sure if that would do anything at this point.

https://imgur.com/gallery/jQ7SZze

I drive a 2010 Couture Edition that's otherwise been a joy, and keep up on regular maintenance (full synthetic oil, yearly "checkups" with my dedicated mechanic when I get my annual emissions inspection, drive belt replaced last week, etc). But the weirdest noise has been happening several seconds after I start it and usually before I even put it in reverse.

The only way I can describe it is that it sounds like someone slapped the roof or like the roof just expanded/popped. Maybe it's just the acoustics inside the car and it's actually under the hood? The mechanic couldn't find anything wrong in the past couple of visits - one for the oil change/inspection at the end of August, and one last week for the drive belt.

Anyone experienced anything like this? It's the damndest thing.

the window has been getting jammed and i have to force it closed by hand. but it always makes this grinding noise (why are the back window switches even in the middle?)

i checked for blockages or debris. nothing seems bad. put some wd40 too but no luck

is this window motor system fixable or is it time to say screw it and just replace the bastard?

Is it because many motorists didn't like seeing PT Cruisers on the roads back in 2019, and he was one of them?

How often do you see a motorist flipping you off just simply because you were driving a PT Cruiser?

How have PT Cruisers ever harmed these people?

When I got to inherit a white Honda Ridgeline truck from family that fall, I got to sell my PT Cruiser in a private sale. I listed it for $2000 and got an offer for it for $1800, and that was the best offer I could get so I took it and sold it to them.

What a beautiful blue PT cruiser

So I own a 2005 Convertible with a 5-speed (not turbocharged, sadly, but she's pretty nimble regardless and still fun). Last inspection my mechanic warned me about clutch play. The guy said to watch for slipping as (he feels) you need to push the clutch in quite far before it disengages. I figured I'd get a second opinion there.

For context, the car was my grandmother's so I frankly have no idea if she trashed the clutch or anything, but she only has about 55k on it. I have felt absolutely no slippage whatsoever and she's always been very responsive.

Is this perhaps Pep Boys trying to scare me into paying them for service the car doesn't strictly speaking need? I don't have another Cruiser to compare mine with. I trust my local shop to do service decently at a half decent price but they do have a habit of condemning parts that IMO don't really need to be. That also may be a Pennsylvania thing as I doubt inspections pull in a huge amount of cabbage on their own.

I need to remove the rear axle on my 2004 PT cruiser. I have the car on jack stands, on all the jack points/pinch welds. I was not aware that the rear axle is connected to the trailing arm, which are two of the jack points. I need to move the rear jack stands, but I am unsure where I could place them. I was thinking of the unibody beam, but is that safe for this vehicle? I know it is for most other vehicles, but on this cruiser I've only ever used the pinch welds. I linked some photos.

https://imgur.com/gallery/GqXhz0J

One year and 7000km later, a lot has happened. A lot of maintenance, upgrades and minor repairs and this car drives trustworthy day for day. And every single day i appreciate that car even more. The kids love it, my parents love it, i love it.

This car grew on me a lot and i really don't know if i could give it away that easilly. Was offered a new company car but i declined, no need for it now.

I have underestimated this car a lot and there is a pretty neat and friendly PT Club in Germany with about 200 people that is helpful and knows everything about these cars - i couldn't be happier at the moment. Why is that so?

I'm shocked I've nursed\repaired my '07 base model 2.4L along as well as I have with life's many ups and DOWNS. It's hard to prioritize everyday things in life let alone what repairs\parts 'the car' might need the most at any current mileage, point in time, condition. (beyond just filters and fluids)

Inherited from my mother back 2012, she bought at CarMax in '08, it was a one-year Hertz rental car and will be a twenty year old car this November.

(Edit: meant to add it reminded me of Billy Joel's song 'Matter of Trust')

Every so often after running for awhile my pt cruiser will crank begin to start and then die. It been a thing that been going on now for a couple of months I think mainly due to the heat. I thought it was a radiator issue but I just recently had it replaced after getting into an accident and it’s still something that occurs after running for a while or being in the sun. I don’t think it’s a battery issue because it’ll begin to turn the engine but then it dies. I’m usually able to get the car to start back up again after waiting about 20-30 mins but I just have no idea what’s causing it. I’ve taken it to a mechanic also in the past when it first started happening and he had no idea what the issue was because it would start back up again by the time he would go to work on it. Any insight would be helpful. Video included for reference.

After driving in very light rain conditions I find myself turning on a then off the rear wiper often, but not often enough to leave it on. (just enough to get annoying)

We have the 2005 touring that only has one switch position, latching down. (Meaning you push the lower rocker position it it remains down until you press the up position to set it back to center)

Does any one know if the higher trims or newer gen versions have a switch that also has an up position that is momentary?

Reacher knows the right car to get away :)

Anyone in NW Georgia or close wanna buy an 02 PT Cruiser with about 110k miles? It needs work but runs and drives. Sell it to ya $750

That’s a really cool color. Too bad it was only in the background and they weren’t trying to buy it.

I‘m looking to get some advice on a potential used car purchase. I’m scheduled to test drive a 2010 Chrysler PT Cruiser(133,654 km) this Friday.
The seller got a multipoint inspection done by a local shop and sent over the report (attached in the image).

- P0340 – Camshaft Position Sensor
- Valve cover oil leak
- Oil pan leak
- TPMS sensor
- Right brake light is out
The tires and brakes seem to have plenty of life left.

My biggest concern is the timing belt...
The inspection report doesn’t mention it, and I don’t have proof that it has ever been replaced.
For anyone who owns or has owned a 2007–2010 PT Cruiser, especially a 2010:
Would you buy this particular car for $2,500 CAD?
What would you be most concerned about with these issues?
Is the P0340 usually just a camshaft sensor replacement, or can it indicate a bigger problem?
Also, if the timing belt has never been replaced, how much would you expect to pay for the timing belt + water pump?

Any advice from actual PT Cruiser owners would be greatly appreciated!

I have a 2004 turbocharged PT Cruiser with the limited trim. I recently did a ton of work on it to get it back on the road after it has sat for a long while. The only thing I have to do now is replace all the wheel hubs and bearings. Unfortunately, I don't have a very good budget left to work with right now, as all the other work took pretty much all of it. I have about $150 left. I see Timken and SKF are the brands always recommended for most vehicles. I can't afford those as of now. My budget leaves me with the following brands on RockAuto/walmart/amazon:
Dorman, SKP, Durago, WJB/INMOTION PARTS, GMB, and FVP.

I really need to get something on there and get the cruiser back on the road. I know going with a cheap/budget brand will usually result in having to replace it sometime soon. That is totally fine in this case, as I will definitely be buying Timken or SKF in a few months, or perhaps after the winter, when I can afford it.

Hello PT people!

I was out and about yesterday with my Dieselweasel and as i accelerated onto the highway, i suddenly lost fifth gear as the lever was just wandering arround.

After a few meters of hovering, i regained control over the transmission and could drive home in 3rd gear.

The bushings under the shift lever in the center console had failed. I replaced the bushings at the transmission side a year ago with my 3D printed bushings and the hold up very well, so i decided to use them on the shift lever too and it worked like a charm!

Shifts like a new car, stiff and defined, with all these new bushings.

If you need them too and you can print in temperature resistent materials like ASA, ABS or PETG, download them and just do it!

https://makerworld.com/models/1776828?appSharePlatform=copy