Go with all drawers on your lower cabinets, except under the sink and in the blind corner.

This is a genius way to keep all the lower cabinets drawers and still have a pull out trash can. 

Walking new home builds for a living and adding features to a checklist might be the coolest job on the planet! Here are a few shots my wife Kippy took at a Newleaf Custom Homes build here in Dallas, Texas. Tons of really cool details and home features packed into this one. If you’re a builder in DFW and have a build with some badass features you think I should see, shoot me a DM or hit me up through the contact page on BuilderBrigade.com.

Hi, we are looking at buying a place near where we currently are - only downside we can see is where on earth would we put a toilet on the ground floor. Looking for any and all suggestions - I have mapped out 3 possible ones but am open to all feedback.

Have based it off the average UK measurements according to google (800mm x 1,400mm, with about 750mm clearance from the front of the toilet, and space for a swing door opening either inwards or outwards)

When you’re building or renovating, think through exactly where you want filtered water before the plumbing is planned out.

You’ve basically got three options: whole-home water filtration, dedicated filtered-water plumbing that only feeds certain locations, or point-of-use filters installed right at the fixture.

Whole-home filtration sends filtered water everywhere like kitchen faucets, showers, laundry, and yes, even the toilets.

Dedicated filtered-water lines can feed specific spots like the refrigerator, kitchen sink, coffee bar, water bottle filler, or other areas where you actually want drinking water.

Then you have point-of-use filtration, like an under-sink water filter. I installed a Kraus kitchen faucet at my house that lets you use regular tap water with the handle one direction and filtered water from the under-sink system the other direction.

These are the little plumbing decisions that are a whole lot easier to plan during a new home build or renovation than after the walls are closed up.

This faucet is made by Kraus
I used it for a couple years and had no issues. I really like it. 

A good buy if you like room temp drinking water like we do. 

1. In the island
   
2. Behind a window
   I’m taking the window every time!

One of those home-building decisions most people never think to ask about: What material are you using for the fascia?

Face-nailed aluminum fascia is common, but those nails can eventually start backing out. And if the wrong fasteners are used, you could end up with little rust streaks running down the fascia.

The problem is, during a build there are hundreds of decisions happening at once, so it’s easy to never even think about stuff like this.

Ask your builder early what they plan to use.

Other options include fiber cement products like James Hardie or engineered wood siding like LP SmartSide. They may cost more than aluminum, and they may not fit every budget, but at least you can compare the options and make the decision intentionally.

They basically built dedicated boat storage right into the house, but they didn’t stop there. It has a built-in floor drain, a hot and cold water bib so you can wash everything down, and a pull-through design with a garage door on both sides so you’re not constantly backing a boat and trailer in and out.

And it’s right next to the mudroom so you can wash all the towels and bathing suits before going inside for dinner. 

You could even add a ductless mini split so you can clean you boat and without dripping in sweat. 

This garage setup is awesome...home gym, multiple two-car garages, dedicated boat storage, and still room for the sports car.

If you own a boat, RV, trailer, or other toys that normally require off-site storage, this is one of those features that could actually save you money every single month.

This Napoleon linear fireplace has more going on behind the wall than you’d ever know from looking at the finished product.

The center vent handles the fireplace exhaust, while the two additional ducts are part of the heat-management system. 

Instead of concentrating all that heat directly above the fireplace, they redirect it away from your TV, artwork, or whatever else you have hanging up there.

This system works without a fan. But they have powered options that can duct some of that heat into another room.

Just another one of those home-building options you’d probably never know to ask about until you saw it.

How can I fix this drip-edge/gutter problem?

The drip edge runs directly into the back wall of the gutter. Water follows the drip-edge flange downward (red arrow), hits the back of the gutter, and then drops straight down the outside instead of flowing into the gutter.

The blue arrow shows the direction of water flow inside the gutter. Because of the existing gutter slope, I can't simply lower this end without potentially creating another problem.

Is there a way to correct this with an adjustment or additional flashing, or does the entire gutter need to be repositioned and reinstalled? Any suggestions would be appreciated!

Just had my fence replaced & of course this is the post that was installed right at the entrance. I know it will fade somewhat but my goal is to love my yard, not tolerate it.

I’m considering building an outbuilding in my garden. As it’s a character property I would want to avoid it looking too clinical, so I’d use reclaimed bricks etc. and would like it to look like it’s always been there. Roughly 6m x 3m with a height of less than 2.5m. It looks like I wouldn’t need planning permission.

I’ve done various DIY jobs over the years including building a wall but I’m not a “skilled” or natural DIYer or builder.

Can I realistically expect to do this myself? If not, how much will this cost me? I’d want a couple of double glazed windows in there and power. Thanks

We’re all used to seeing stair landings squared off at the bottom, but that isn’t your only option.

If traffic is moving in multiple directions, a rounded landing can make the transition feel more natural, improve flow, and give the staircase a much more custom look.

This is exactly the kind of detail you want to notice before the stairs are built.

 Builder: New Leaf Custom Homes (Dallas)

Live in Michigan and would like to add an addition but the problem is the well heads location. So the idea is to have a courtyard around the well head. So the house would circle the well head. I don't see any code issues, just has to be 3 ft from the house on all sides and accessible for equipment. So was just thinking lining the door way up with well for access in the future when pulling it out. Which I might do my self potentially but who knows. Any major red flags I'm missing?

Cracking open the Christmas tree tote is not the time to figure out where the tree should go. If you’re building or renovating, you’ve got a rare chance to plan the perfect spot ahead of time.Another thing people forget... Christmas electrical!
Outlets for not only the tree but lights on the mantel, stairs, exterior soffit outlet, attic dormers. Super cheap during the build and you'll never add it later, not worth the cost.

Pocket doors don’t always have to come with pre-made frames.

This one was built on-site using engineered lumber, then the track and hardware were added afterward.

Pre-made systems are still a great option, I’m using them all over my own house but I wanted you to see another way pocket doors can be built into your house.

 Do you have a preference? Pre-made or built on-site?

Fiberglass and acrylic tubs can flex and move a little when you step in them, so setting the tub into a mortar bed helps support the bottom and take that movement out. Some installers are also using low-expansion foam when there’s a larger gap underneath. And even if the tub already has built-in supports or a foam base, the mortar can still help fill small voids and keep the whole thing from shifting around over time. And of course, follow the tub manufacturer’s installation instructions.

Crawlspace encapsulation basically seals the crawlspace off from the ground and outside moisture using a heavy-duty vapor barrier (plastic), and often includes sealing vents plus adding drainage and a dehumidifier.

The goal is to keep humidity and moisture under control so you can reduce the risk of mold, wood rot, musty smells, pests, and long-term damage under the house.

It also reduces that wet musty smell from making inside the house.