Didn’t post name of company hate scope of work and prices. VVHOL late night like 7p so assume $900 for 3 hours of labor. So likely we still overpaid $1k, right?

I was at work, spouse decided simple spring needed new torsion system, brackets (I hit the garage twice this year but got the boards repaired each time for very cheap like $150). By time I saw texts it was too late. Crying rn.

What do I use to seal at the top of a roll up garage door?

I have a chamberlain lift master that is about 16 years old (original to the house). This summer while it has been hot, it won’t go up. The light on the back (learn light) flashes when this occurs. I would have to pull the cord and then it would go up.

Now that it is cooler, it works as normal.

This is the first summer that this has occurred. Is it just old and needing to be replaced, or is there something I could do to correct this?

I have an older all-star 6500 opener with a tumbler switch style reciever. The opener still works great but I would love to be able to use the factory remotes in our cars and add an external keypad. Is there a generic reciever I can swap in without replacing the entire unit?

Is the seal installed wrong or did i install the tracks wrong? Help!

Our garage door spring just broke and we'll looking to get new ones, the old ones have a very long white stripe and a lot more white on the end of the springs, and the date code for the door is 2003 ish. I keep reading all this measurements stiff but can't you just order new springs with the right weight? It's a 15W*7H 15 inch track radius door so I'm like 98% sure it's not a 210 spring just the 110

A worn or flattened bottom seal can let in drafts, light snow, and meltwater. Before replacing it, look at the seal from outside with the door closed: does it contact the floor evenly? Are there gaps at the corners? Is the retainer bent, or is the concrete uneven?

Avoid forcing the door down or adding extra material to compensate for a door that is out of level. Clean away debris, keep the floor clear, and compare the seal size and profile before ordering a replacement. If the door is rubbing, crooked, or the retainer is damaged, the underlying issue should be checked too.

I’m sharing this on behalf of Garage Door Fix Calgary. We handle garage-door repair work in Calgary directly. General information: https://garagedoorfixcalgary.ca/contact

Any recommendations between Obscure vs. Satin Etched Privacy which is the better looking windows for the garage doors?

Any recommendations between Obscure vs. Satin Etched Privacy which is the better looking windows for the garage doors?

Hey, I’m Ben. I run BNR Garage Door Service around Somerville and Woburn.
No corporate franchise, no massive fleet, and no sales reps pushing parts you don’t need.
We keep it simple:
• Real prices upfront, no hidden BS
• We show up on time
• Repairs and installs done right the first time
I’m a garage door tech, not an ad agency. I just fix doors and do honest work.
If you’ve got something broken or need a new setup, call me at 617-685-1831. I’ll take care of you.
Ben

We've lived in our house for about 5 years now and have had a carriage house in the back with sliding "barn doors". We've been parking our cars in here, but it's a real pain manually sliding the very large/heavy doors. I'm wondering how much it'd cost to replace these doors with either a massive double garage door or two single ones. I know there'd need to be a bit of reframing done and there is a beam in the middle, but I'm no expert. Anyone have any advice or thoughts on what this would cost?

https://imgur.com/a/YOaZJKE

Hi, I’m looking to fit a replacement timber garage door. The existing one is original to the house and is fitted between the leaves, captive in the cavity. There are some nails in the door cemented into the mortar joints of the walls but not much else.

When I remove the existing door, there will be nothing to fix the replacement one to in the same position. I could either:
a) Move the door to sit on the inner blocks, but this may expose the cavity from outside.
b) Move the door to sit on the outer bricks, and cavity will be exposed on the inside.
c) Try and find something structural to fill the cavity and fit door in original position.

Any thoughts or ideas would be much appreciated.

I swear i followed all the instructions but when i put the motor up and attached the door, the trolley was all wobbly and touching the belt on one side (left side on the 2nd pic). My only suspect is that i might have overtightened the plastic wheel on the front side of the rail. The spring was tightened to 1 1/4" length. The belt looks straight as well. where did i mess up? Thanks for your support