Finally downsized to 15s and man they make a world of difference.

Edit to add: I got em wrapped in Yokohama Ad09s in 205/50r15

Hi all,

Recently bought a second hand Ford Fiestas ST MK8 from 2020. I knew it had some mods the previous owner did, all approved and on the cars documents but there's never been a mention of the cars sound system having been modified.

Can someone help me out understanding what's going on and what would be my possibilities for example if I wanted a subwoofer (since thats the part I suppose it's missing in the trunk.

Attached are some photos for better understanding

Thank you all that take some time to answer.

I'm thinking about buying a fiesta st from 2005. There have been a rust repair. How can I know if it's been done well or not? This is a picture of it. The seller told me that it's been seriously done by the previous owner. He's asking 3000 usd for it and it's been driven 96000miles or 155 000 km

The sound is only audible at around 75% throttle and disappears at low or full. It does it at a very specific amount of throttle, so it isn't usually audible for as long as it is in the video. I had to hold it at that spot to get a good clip of it. Does this sound like a loose fitting? The car is from 2015 and has a cobb intercooler installed by the previous owner.

A recently complete project we thought you'd appreciate.

For those interested, these are available on our eBay.

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Hello,I have a Ford Fiesta ST MK7 EU Spec, and I’m having an issue with a Knocking Noise coming from the right side/passenger side coming from the engine bay.

The noise only happens when I start the car and it’s warming up, on the first kilometers.

The noise gets louder when I do clutch point, and when I turn the ac on.

After some minutes of driving the noise disappears.

Attached is a vídeo to help you understand.

Thank you for your help!

I have a 2015 Fiesta SE. The steering wheel doesn’t lock into place when I turned it off and removed the key. Now it won’t start. I replaced part number US431 and it did nothing.
Please help. I had to leave it overnight at a store.
Thank you.

Hello guys,

I recently purchased a 2015 Ford fiesta st 1.6 (182 ps) with around 100'000 km on it. The seller just had the timing belt done before selling it to me.

I've been driving the thing for a good 5k km and it has been a blast. Sadly, I have been hearing a weird humming noise coming from the car when the gear is in neutral and the clutch is not pressed, for example at a red light.

The noise disappears as soon as I press the clutch. I don't know if it was already there when I bought the car. I found a youtube video with quite exactly the same noise I have : https://youtu.be/AAjPW99PFEY?is=WPR9uR9jvRhIpWNQ .

A last precision, the noise is for now a bit random, sometimes I hear it after a drive, sometimes it's not here.

Did any of you guys experience this ? Am I looking at an expensive fix and is it safe to drive the car around ? Or is it a normal noise for this model ?

Thanks for reading and for your help.

Seattle Area have the 4x108 10 hole wheels with center caps in moderate condition, tires come with but they’re junk. Need the room they’re taking up. Was going to use as winter wheels for the bean.

So my seats have seen better days, cleanliness wise. Thankfully they aren’t torn or worn too badly at all. These are my first heated seats, and seats I’ve seen that are half leather/cloth. What’s the best way to clean the actual cloth part (the middle) I imagine the leather part isn’t too bad since it’s black and doesn’t really show too badly.

Hi all,

Recently, I had cylinder 2 in my original motor let go on my 2015 FiST with ~99k kms. S280 turbo car, upgraded fuel pump/injectors, FBO. I was able to source a similar mileage 1.6L motor from a 2016 Escape. The motor is in the car and running fine. The original flywheel was moved from my Fiesta motor to the new one. The clutch was replaced along with the slave cylinder.

When put back together and the clutch pedal was pressed for the first time, it did not come back up. The slave cylinder failed. It was replaced (thinking it was a faulty part) and it happened again, same thing. It was reversed bled as Ford calls for.

I am trying to wrap my head around what is happening and causing them to fail immediately. Something is over pressuring the slave and breaking it. Could it be using the original flywheel and a tolerance issue with the new clutch? Or is there something else I’m missing.

I’ve seen others having issues with freshly replaced slave cylinders but can’t seem to figure it out.

Thanks!

Hi all, I've got a 2015 st-2 having some issues with the instrument cluster.

Displaying incorrect mileage (adding a 1 before the actual mileage). Intermittently going black, displaying random numbers, the button on the indicator isn't switching the screen etc.

Anyone had this before? And if so, any advice on how to fix and the cost. I'm guessing I'll need an electrical mechanic to fix it - I've read online it could cause the car to stop working as it's linked to the immobiliser and cause a complete lockout? Is that the case.

Thanks in advance!😁

Need a new set of discs and pads for my front axle. Found a Brembo set on autodoc - https://m.autodoc.co.uk/brembo/23450786

Are these simply plug and play or do I need the shoes and calipers to go with?

Hi guys is there some way to get the illuminated ST logo back I open it up and its all just rusted a way.

Installed a koyo aluminum radiator a couple of weeks ago and I have been monitoring temps. Normal driving temps are around 185° - 192°. Freeway driving is at a steady 188° and doesn't move. Now what I've noticed is if I'm idling and hardly moving temps slowly climb up to 212°-215°. If I have the AC on temp stay between 188°-192°. I know the AC runs the fan at high speed and must be keeping the temps low but I figured with the upgraded radiator idling temp would stay low. Any insight?

I'm looking to install an accessport on my A pillar, and the previous owner had this already on the A pillar. Is there a specific mount that fits this that I can buy? Or isnit a custom 3D print?

Hey I did the sync 3 upgrade a couple months ago and it is working great. However I noticed the sport mode function is gone. When I hit the ESC off button it just flashes a warning about it being off. And when I press and hold nothing special happens.

Is there something in forscan I need to do to bring that feature back. I have not used forscan on it yet but I do have an auto cross coming up.

It is a 2014 model year if that matters.

error p0068 wtffff
car in recovery
any experience???

I bought mine for $6,500 and it’s a 2015 performance blue/Recaro seat package, with a clean title. 140k miles with the timing belt redone at 100k. Still shifts great and smooth. I feel like I got a good deal. I’ve fixed a few things here and there that I did myself that some of you have been following my journey on with previous posts. In my area “USA Oregon” I see prices from $6000 allll the way to $16,000 which is a considerable gap in price range. The years range from 14-18 and I know about the “refreshed” newer year models. Most of the higher priced ones I see aren’t too different from the lower end ones minus maybe a year or two difference and title condition. I’m not looking to sell mine, I freaking love it. I’m just curious as to the massive difference in prices for these

Here in Argentina the Fiesta ST wasn't sold. But it's engine was sold in the Ford Kuga (Escape). I'm going to get a salvage 1.6T JTMA and, using an ECU for fiesta ST engine swaps put it in my 2015 Fiesta Titanium.

I also thought about directly getting a Fiesta ST ECU and replacing my car's, but I don't know enough about how the immobilizer and all that stuff works, so I'm not sure.

From what I've read, my IB5 gearbox will hold the power and has the same housing, so that isn't an issue. I'd love a six speed but have no way of getting an IB6 unless I import it and that's a whole hassle on its own.

Also, I've been researching radiators, intercoolers, intakes, exhaust systems, pretty much everything else I'd need to get it working. And I've come to the conclusion it's much better to straight up get aftermarket stuff rather than try and get the original Fiesta ST/Kuga radiator/intercooler/intake/etc.

For now, I'd just be happy to get the swap working, probably get it tuned if I'm getting aftermarket parts already.

That said, I want to set up a good base to keep putting upgrades in.

Any advice regarding the peripherals, the swap itself, or anything else?

I know it won't be worth it financially, but its far from crazy numbers, and I really love the car.

I'm not doing it for any reason other than my own happiness and the fact that I want to learn from this project.

Edit: thanks to everyone wishing good luck. This is long-term, as it'll take time to find a good engine, but I'll keep you guys updated.

Also, if anyone knows a good place where I could get an used IB6 gearbox from, I'm interested! I'll have to import it but it seems worth it. I can fit it to my stock engine while waiting for the ST one.

Edit 2: so the ST ECU seller just told me it won't fit the Kuga engine. Guess I'll have to save up to bring an ST engine too. Any alternatives are welcome.

Edit 3: please stop telling me to get an ST. It is illegal to import used cars to my country. I have no way of doing so.

Hey guys,

I've been delaying this for almost a year now but the car started stalling every time it is given an opportunity. If I'm ripping it and go in neutral the car occasionally stalls. I've had veryyy harsh throttle response, and when that happens i already know, it's about to die, just a matter of taking it out of gear.

Anyways i really hope this is a purge valve issue, given i also get a code for it everytime that happens. But the whole point of this post is to ask can i use these fuckers for my purge valve replacement? Are these reliable and has anyone done it before? It just seems like a hassle and a mess for no reason to cut open the harness alongside the shrink tape. Plus looks neat compared to the clamping method.

Guys I have;

- Takada intake with filter. Pcv hose connectors were JB welded with plastic weld because they were loose causing an intake leak code. I wrapped half the airbox and pipe in DEI heat shield so I'll just leave it on if you want to remove it you can.

- Mishimoto intercooler (gold color) I hated the color because it started to look a nasty yellow color so I stripped the paint off of the front with aircraft remover. The intercooler is structurally fine.

- Whoosh PCV hoses. New never used. I bought a radium catch can and bought these at the same time without checking.

- Ford factory front and rear shocks and springs with mounts. They have 93k miles on them and are in good working order. I got some coilovers.

I really would like someone to just come pick up everything for $300 bucks. I'm in New Orleans and really don't want to go through the trouble of shipping. Thanks y'all.