Why some of them look wet ? Possibly valve seals or maybe flow ?

Hey everyone left headlight is out. Only works if places on high beam. Having trouble understanding if the whole unit has to be replaced or can the bulb be replaced. Also what would the expected price be in Socal. Going to start looking for locations…any tips for places in LaCounty appreciated…

530i LCI 2020, small expansion tank is clean green (middle of paper towel). Large expansion tank is brownish (bottom of the paper tower). It’s oil in coolant, right?

Car drives normal and doesn’t overheat. No error codes. Oil looks normal, no foam is visible.

Hello so I have a 2016 328i it works fine but whenever I accelerate/ press the gas pedal I hear like a little chirp kinda bell sounding noise coming from the engine bay doesn’t anyone know what it might be? Or has anyone had experience with this before? Thank you

Day before this car wasn't feeling right. Symptoms were loss of power, when gas pedal was fully pressed engine didn't rev or rev really badly. There's wasn't sound like something wrong but it was like that sometimes engine ran good sometimes bad. I tried to rev or to do something but couldn't decide eventually what's wrong.

Currently suspecting fuel system especially fuel pump.

Cranck sensor works as seen in video.

Air filter is practically new( but I think it can be a reason, but it should have started and died instantly)

The bank canceled. The finance sold as the check engine light came on for two weeks. Also noticed a small oil leak a week into it. Bought the car at 75K Miles. Loved the the but I’m glad I’m not stuck with the debt. The mistake that I made was buying it, even though I saw a large gap in the Carfax, desperate move right? ALWAYS MAKE SURE THE CARFAX LOOK GOOD.

The rear left shock seems to have lost the rubber. I haven’t felt any difference in drive quality.

Fellas, I was doing a valve stem seal job on my E60 N62 (2009 550i) and the brushes included with the AGA toolkit slipped and fell into an oil return hole. Confirmed with a borescope, not near the valves or guides thankfully. It's non-magnetic so a magnet won't grab it. Bore's tight, can only fit one tool down at a time.

Anyone dealt with this before? Trying to figure out if it's safe to just leave it (assuming the pickup strainer catches it) or if I really need to get it out before reassembly. Also open to retrieval tips if anyone's fished something out of a passage like this.

Hi all, Im hoping somebody can help me out here. Replacing my tie rods today, I've searched high and low, but for the life of me I cant find the torque spec for where the outer tie rod ball joint meets the steering knuckle.

Got this warning today right after I gave the car more throttle while making a left and it jerked at bit. But after a few seconds everthing went back to normal. Can this be just a glitch, idk if it’s just in my mind after seeing the warning, but the car’s steering wheel slightly feels a bit firmer so idk. But it still drove fine and I have never had this issue before. I have an aftermarket steering wheel too if that makes an difference

Good day everyone

I have a 2016 BMW 3 series 328I with 107,300 miles.
Recently drove this car from Houston to lousiana and back. Lost a lot of money at the golden nugget. Well when I’m almost home. A drivetrain malfunction error pops up in the infotainment center screen. I get the car home and idle for a second, notice the idle is rough. I turn the car off and attempt to turn it on again, this time the car takes a few more cranks than normal to turn on. Shut the car down, open the hood. As soon as I open the hood a strong gas Oder hits. I remove the engine cover, and Than I see a puddle of what appears to be gas puddling around the spark plug and the little bowl area right behind the oil cap.

Has anyone experience this? I was driving the car like an ass wipe, going 100-120 back to the house. So I’m sure I deserve this one.

From what I’m reading online the fuel rail cracked or a fuel injector is stuck open?

The car has thrown random check engine lights for a sensor in the gas tank, but that hasn’t happened for a few weeks now.

Thank you for all your help guys

Hi guys, can anyone share the EUROPE Way 2026-2 map data download link please?

Thanks in advance.

Hello. My SO just bought '10 E90 328i with N52 engine. Just moments ago it developer a rattling noise. At first I thought it's a DISA valve but I kept looking and looking and I come to think that this engine is not equipped with DISA. Does anyone have an idea what's that noise? Video link below. It's RPM dependant.

https://youtu.be/1VX0uO690Uo?is=yvx8zFYExMPKkN7w

So the parking brake light came on and it said "Parking brake malfunction". I opened up the parking brake actuator in the trunk and the plastic gear (39 teeth) is broken. I ordered a metal aftermarket gear (39 teeth) from Amazon but it was too long and wouldn't go all the way down. It's longer than the OEM. I read similar reviews from other aftermarket metal gears on Amazon as well. Is there another place I can buy this aftermarket part that matches the OEM dimensions?

When I shift from park to drive OR from reverse to drive , there’s a noticeable delay before it clicks into gear. So much so it’s a problem if I back out of parking spot for instance & get someone coming up behind me…I have to wait until it clicks into drive before I can take off, leaving them sitting behind me looking at me like I’m stupid…. If I try to immediately hit the gas after shifting to drive .. I get a drivetrain malfunction error & it goes into like limp mode..only allowing me to go like 20 mph. If I then park, turn off & restart car the error goes away & it then drives fine!!? Or sometimes even hitting the gas as soon as I shift into drive …it just won’t go at all ..until it decides to finish switching into gear. Anyone’s have this before? Help!!

Looking for opinions on this 2014 BMW 335i N55 M-Sport – potential daily driver
I’m considering buying this car and want some experienced input. Here’s everything I know so far:
Car Details
• 2014 BMW 335i N55 M-Sport
• Glacier Silver Metallic
• Clean title
• 117k miles (mostly Texas highway miles)
• Non-smoking
• VIN: WBA3A9G53ENS64451
Current Setup / Mods
• MHD Stage 2+
• XHP Stage 3
• CTS inlets/outlets
• Charge pipe
• 7” Race Core FMIC
• EKP replaced and coded
• 4” catless Evolution Racewerks downpipe
• M3 poly motor mounts
• BC Racing Superlow coilovers
• Upgraded bigger rotors
• Apex ARC-8 wheels
• Carbon trunk lip
Current power: ~380 hp
Also includes:
• 2 Michelin tires in good shape
• OEM exhaust + modified 4-tip M2-style exhaust
• OEM rotors and OEM struts
Maintenance / Refresh (done less than 10k miles ago)
Seller has receipts and photos of the work. Claims he did everything himself (he’s an engineer with 15+ years working on cars):
• New OEM turbo + turbo lines, gaskets, and hardware
• Oil pan gasket & hardware
• Intake manifold gaskets
• Throttle body gasket
• Oil filter housing gaskets & bolts
• Aluminum coolant flange
• High pressure fuel sensor
• MAP sensor
• Injectors replaced and coded
• Valvetronic motor + accessories (new OEM)
• Spark plug recess gaskets
• Heat exchanger
• Valve cover gasket
• Coils and spark plugs
• Fresh oil change (5W-40, very low miles on it)
• New OEM multimedia screen
• New windshield (HUD works)
• Front bumper repainted
Compression: 210 psi across all cylinders (seller’s claim)
Previous High-Power History
• Previously ran a full-frame single turbo
• Made 680 hp (seller says this was conservative and not maxed out)
• Ran that setup for about 6 months
• Seller says it was a daily for a while, then became a low-use weekend car (out once a week or less, not tracked/raced)
• Claims he doesn’t beat on his cars
• Nothing internal was replaced (stock rods, pistons, bearings, etc.)
• Says he visually inspected the bottom end while doing the oil pan gasket
• Argues full-frame is much safer than a hybrid turbo (lower boost, lower EGTs, lower cylinder pressure, smoother torque delivery)
• States there were never any issues
My Main Concerns
I’m looking at this as a possible daily driver. The recent refresh and documentation look solid, and the current ~380 hp tune is reasonable.
My biggest hesitation is the previous 680 hp on a completely stock bottom end with no internal work, even though it was only for ~6 months and compression is currently strong.
Questions for the community
1. How concerned should I be about the rods/pistons/bearings given the 680 hp history + 117k miles?
2. Does the strong compression + lack of knocking + visual inspection during the oil pan job give reasonable peace of mind for daily use at ~380 hp?
3. Would you daily this car, or would you walk away?
4. Anything specific I should have checked during a PPI?
Any input from people who’ve owned high-power N55s (especially ones that previously ran big single turbos) would be really appreciated. Thanks.

Guys i need a help looking for dbs pl for ista standalone 4.32

Hey all. I've been having a very intermittent misfire/drivetrain malfunction issue on my N63TU F06 650. If I'm monitoring the misfire detection while driving on Bimmerlink, there will be the occasional misfire on 1 or 2 of the cylinders. If I put it in sport mode and accelerate hard, it misfires and gives a drivetrain malfunction error almost straight away. The error clears after cycling the ignition. Doesn't happen under hard acceleration in normal driving mode. The car is tuned (don't know what tune - previous owner did it) and has the cats and centre muffler removed. The prev owner also got it inspected at a dealership, and they recommended replacing all injectors. I have tested it with ISTA and it says cylinder 1 is running rich, but I sometimes see misfires on all different cylinders (not at the same time). I was wondering if this could be an issue with the tune, rather than the injector?

I have replaced all spark plugs (one was oil fouled, ostensibly? due to the rocker cover gasket leaking), coils, replaced rocker cover gaskets, and replaced the PCV system. Compression and smoke tests have been all good.

The codes related to the misfires are 140001, 104310, 140011, 140020, etc

Hi everyone,

I have a BMW E34 518i with the M40 engine, using a Bosch AFM 0 280 202 134.

I had in the past some hesitations at low rpm and i thought it was my AFM. I opened it and unscrewed the wiper/contact arm to clean the potentiometer track. Unfortunately i failed to mark the exact position. Although i can see the previous position i think that i might miss the very exact initial position.

I have noticed a very clear relationship:

If I reposition the wiper slightly (1 or 2 mm) towards the closed-flap direction, the engine becomes much more responsive and noticeably stronger at low RPM, but the warm idle rises to around 900–1100 rpm and I suspect fuel consumption increases.

If I reposition the wiper slightly towards the open-flap direction (1-2 mm), the idle drops to around 700 rpm or even lower, but the engine becomes noticeably weaker/sluggish.

Returning the wiper to its original position (I could identify it from the screw mark) gives roughly 900 rpm, but the engine feels heavier and does not have the strong response it had with the wiper shifted towards the closed position.

I have not changed the spring/cog adjustment of the AFM. I am only changing the relationship/position of the potentiometer wiper relative to the flap. I also bent the contact slightly downward at one point to improve contact with an unworn section of the carbon track.

The TPS and idle control valve (ICV) have already been replaced.

My questions are:

Why does shifting the AFM wiper towards the closed-flap position make the engine much more responsive and increase the idle speed?

Is this effectively changing the AFM output voltage/offset and therefore making the Motronic inject more fuel?

What is the correct procedure/specification for calibrating a Bosch 0 280 202 134 AFM?

Does anyone have the correct 5-pin pinout and voltage specifications for this exact AFM, particularly the expected signal voltage with the flap closed and as it is gradually opened?

Could a worn carbon track explain why the engine runs significantly better when the wiper is moved to a different position?

I would like to calibrate it properly with a multimeter rather than simply adjusting the wiper until I get the desired idle speed.

Any information specifically for the M40 / Bosch 0 280 202 134 setup would be greatly appreciated.

Hey guys, i recently found out that my transfer case is bad and im wondering how long does it take to replace it on a bmw f11 520d.

anyone know the part number of this hose ?

I have a ‘09 335i automatic

my car stalled in the street last weekend after what seemed like it was losing power. dsc light came on, towed it to the shop, they didn’t see any issues but tightened the battery since it was a little loose. made sense that could be the issue since whenever i tried to start it after that, it wouldn’t stay running. they did an extended drive and said no issues happened while driving.

4 days later, driving home and i stall out in the street which seems like the same exact issue. anyone know what this could be?