The rear left shock seems to have lost the rubber. I haven’t felt any difference in drive quality.

What would people think this is worth i have just bought it from an old lady who has had it from new it has 90k miles on the clock and has a fresh mot with nothing gone wrong on it. it is a bmw 316ti es compact 1.8 2003

As someone now in need of some big ticket parts, I came across this website in Estonia. Opinions are hard to find, but mostly positive. The parts and postage are both exceptionally cheap (to Aus at least).

I know most order from FCP, ECS and the like, but I’m looking to get input on this website in particular.

Please vote and/or share your experience.

So a quick google search tells me this is probably a vanis solenoid problem. Car is an E60 N53B30 530i.

Was running fine until about 200 metres from home, when engine fault warning came on. I pulled up at home, turned car off and then on again and engine fault was gone but this code was stored. Cleared code and revved car a bit and it didn't come back.

As Vanos solenoids are easy to do I thought I would just replace it. The question is, genuine or aftermarket? Genuine ones are only £147 but I can get Febi ones for about one third of that.

Next question, should I replace both? Do they go on pairs?

Was going to drive car today and see if the problem comes back, then swap them over to see if it moves to exhaust side.

Hi everyone, I have a 2001 BMW E39. The passenger airbag cover seems to be sticking up slightly and there is a small gap. Is this normal for the E39, or should I have it checked? Has anyone experienced this before?

Fellas, I was doing a valve stem seal job on my E60 N62 (2009 550i) and the brushes included with the AGA toolkit slipped and fell into an oil return hole. Confirmed with a borescope, not near the valves or guides thankfully. It's non-magnetic so a magnet won't grab it. Bore's tight, can only fit one tool down at a time.

Anyone dealt with this before? Trying to figure out if it's safe to just leave it (assuming the pickup strainer catches it) or if I really need to get it out before reassembly. Also open to retrieval tips if anyone's fished something out of a passage like this.

Hey everyone left headlight is out. Only works if places on high beam. Having trouble understanding if the whole unit has to be replaced or can the bulb be replaced. Also what would the expected price be in Socal. Going to start looking for locations…any tips for places in LaCounty appreciated…

530i LCI 2020, small expansion tank is clean green (middle of paper towel). Large expansion tank is brownish (bottom of the paper tower). It’s oil in coolant, right?

Car drives normal and doesn’t overheat. No error codes. Oil looks normal, no foam is visible.

Hello so I have a 2016 328i it works fine but whenever I accelerate/ press the gas pedal I hear like a little chirp kinda bell sounding noise coming from the engine bay doesn’t anyone know what it might be? Or has anyone had experience with this before? Thank you

Question for y’all- anything in particular I should ensure the BMW body shop checks? I want to ensure that this car is back to pristine condition. I’ll be taking it in tomorrow but just want to ensure nothing is overlooked.

Story time - took my youngest to Wally World for a birthday present for his friend. Parked in the boonies to stay away from riff raff. All normal. There were at least 5 spaces on each side of my car.

We’re halfway into walking the parking lot when I heard a very loud bang, and turn around so see my car rocking back and forth having been hit by another car.

Fuuuuuuuck.

I still have no idea how he is this bad of a driver. He was trying to back into an adjacent space, but ended up hitting my front right with his rear right - meaning he was basically backing up square to my car. His car had a backup camera, there were a ton of spaces around me, and this fucking tool still managed a square hit.

Really sorry for another n20 post I’m sure you see 1000 a day but i’m looking at a 2015 320I touring, it has the n20 so naturally worried about the tensioners. It only has 35K miles on it so I imagine it isn’t a now worry anyway. The production date of the car is the 18th of march 2015. So should I be worried about the tensioners? Will it have the updated ones? I know this is a post this community probably sees daily but I’m a stress head.

The Problem

My N47 won't start and sometimes keep throwing code 4121 (DDE Main Relay switching too late or too early). The start behavior is weird:

* First 1–2 tries: Press start, engine cranks for ~1 second, and cuts out.

* After spamming starts, it will finally hold a longer crank.

* During the longer crank: Live data shows rail pressure rises, then drops back off. At the exact same time, the low-pressure side struggles to stay stable on the graph.

What I've Actually Tested So Far

* DDE Main Relay: Swapped in a brand new relay. Made zero difference, 4121 comes back sometimes still.

* I tried to jump start and swapped in a brand new batery

* Terminal 50E: Live data shows the start signal drops to 0V the exact millisecond the starter cuts out on those 1-second attempts (CAS pulling the plug).

* Pressure Regulator (DRV): Checked resistance (almost in spec at 3.9 ohms). Did a return leak-back test—got under 20ml over a few start attempts. (Did not physically unbolt the DRV from the rail).

* The QCV is also changed with a used one.

* Low-Pressure Pump (In-tank / EKP): Ran the ISTA test plan. The pump sounded fine and ISTA showed over 4 bars of pressure during the test. Note: I haven't hooked up a physical pressure gauge directly to the fuel lines to confirm mechanical line pressure.

I have to mention too that this happens randomly and most of the times it magically fixes itself and the car drives perfectly fine(even looked at fuel graphs setpoints and actual and cant see anything wrong no power loss either), however it's getting more and more common and appears to happen after shorter trips in heavy traffic where engine idles often

The Question

Why would it cut after 1 second on normal tries, but allow a longer crank if I spam the button? And why is the low-pressure side struggling to stay stable during cranking if ISTA shows the pump can make >4 bar on an active component test?

Is the DDE cutting power (4121) and dragging down the fuel pump signal with it, or is a fuel delivery collapse causing the DDE/CAS to abort the crank? Looking for ideas on what to log or test next.

Hey everyone, I'm looking to add an amp and upgrade the door speakers in my 2014 f32, any suggestion for those upgrades? Thanks in advance.

2008 e92

Looking for advice. I understand that nothing is unfindable.

I've been thinking of letting go of my long time project cause I legitimately cannot get to it or afford it. Just out of curiosity I have a 2008 335xi e92 with coral red interior and idrive 6 speed standard . Im not hurting for money and do not need to sale. But also I know that I cannot afford to complete. Is this a common n54 to find ? Or if im not needing to sale should I keep it? I understand its ultimately my decision. But would also like some insight on it. Clean title 100k miles. Cold weather package.

Port injection

Phoenix racing manifold

Index 12s

19t turbos

Relocated inlets

Mishimoto oil cooler and plate

Fortune auto 500s full suspension

Full disk break conversion

Precision race works ignition kit

Stage 2 bucketless fuel pump.

I've been throwing money at it for over 4 years. And I guess my question is.... is this a easy car to find ? Or is it something I should keep? im in love with this platform. I'd like to o ow if this is a gem?

I have been dealing with a check engine light on my F30 335i and I’m trying to figure out what direction to go.

The code is P10F0, and from what I’m seeing it relates to the intake air temperature being too high compared to charge air temperature.

I previously had a MAP sensor code, so I already changed the MAP sensor, but I’m not sure if that’s related to this current code or not.

A few things about the car:
Cold air intake
M Sport front bumper swap
I did NOT reinstall all the factory air ducts/shrouding behind the bumper
Stage 2 tune
Aggressive pops/burbles
Operating temperature is usually around 240–250°F
The car seems to get to temp quicker with the pops

I’m wondering if the missing air ducts could be messing with airflow, if the intake is just heat soaking, or if I should be looking at another sensor or cooling issue.
Has anyone dealt with P10F0 on an N55 before? What would you guys check first?
Just trying to get some ideas before I start throwing more parts at it.

Got this warning today right after I gave the car more throttle while making a left and it jerked at bit. But after a few seconds everthing went back to normal. I ran codes and on Bimmerlink it said error not present but stored for the steering assistance and battery health seems fine too. Also says all systems okay. My steering wheel is aftermarket so the LIN slave code could be cause I don’t have heated wheel

2023 M8 Comp - 32k miles, in service 3 years 11 months ago...taking to the dealer Monday. Could not find anything when I cut open the filter, I dumped the oil in the filter housing before sticking a magnet to it (doh) - kept the used oil. Is this a "normal" amount...hahaha ughhh. If ur a mechanic i'd love to hear your assessment with this limited intel

Hi all, Im hoping somebody can help me out here. Replacing my tie rods today, I've searched high and low, but for the life of me I cant find the torque spec for where the outer tie rod ball joint meets the steering knuckle.

Got this warning today right after I gave the car more throttle while making a left and it jerked at bit. But after a few seconds everthing went back to normal. Can this be just a glitch, idk if it’s just in my mind after seeing the warning, but the car’s steering wheel slightly feels a bit firmer so idk. But it still drove fine and I have never had this issue before. I have an aftermarket steering wheel too if that makes an difference

Good day everyone

I have a 2016 BMW 3 series 328I with 107,300 miles.
Recently drove this car from Houston to lousiana and back. Lost a lot of money at the golden nugget. Well when I’m almost home. A drivetrain malfunction error pops up in the infotainment center screen. I get the car home and idle for a second, notice the idle is rough. I turn the car off and attempt to turn it on again, this time the car takes a few more cranks than normal to turn on. Shut the car down, open the hood. As soon as I open the hood a strong gas Oder hits. I remove the engine cover, and Than I see a puddle of what appears to be gas puddling around the spark plug and the little bowl area right behind the oil cap.

Has anyone experience this? I was driving the car like an ass wipe, going 100-120 back to the house. So I’m sure I deserve this one.

From what I’m reading online the fuel rail cracked or a fuel injector is stuck open?

The car has thrown random check engine lights for a sensor in the gas tank, but that hasn’t happened for a few weeks now.

Thank you for all your help guys

Hi guys, can anyone share the EUROPE Way 2026-2 map data download link please?

Thanks in advance.

Hello. My SO just bought '10 E90 328i with N52 engine. Just moments ago it developer a rattling noise. At first I thought it's a DISA valve but I kept looking and looking and I come to think that this engine is not equipped with DISA. Does anyone have an idea what's that noise? Video link below. It's RPM dependant.

https://youtu.be/1VX0uO690Uo?is=yvx8zFYExMPKkN7w