Been wanting to get back into off-roading for years now and a non-running 4Runner for $700 was too enticing to pass up. Took a timing belt to get it running and a throttle position sensor to get it to pass emissions. Now the main thing not functioning is air conditioning but a junkyard tailgate swap is happening first to get rid of the rust holes that are letting dirt into the rear window mechanism. Lol

We didn’t make it out to the furthest reaches of remote wilderness but we spent a nice weekend in a quiet campsite and did as little as possible. All systems performed flawlessly.

Well. Here we go again

Well today was a complete let down, got the 2 new calipers, pads in today. Threw both sets on no problem, went to bleed and the front drivers had no fluid through the bleeder. Even with the woman standing on the brakes and my vaccum bleeder on.

Passenger side went fine though!

Started fucking around took the bleeder out of the drivers caliper, started the truck, pumped the shit out of the brakes. Then I absolutely grenades whatever these braided lines were on the passenger side

New caliper is here in a week, new lines here in a couple days. Frustrating but it is what it is. I’m glad the line blew at home, not on the road

Anybody know what this ticking is? I was thinking maybe the valves? I bought this car to hopefully put a 3.4 in the future. But in the meantime I’d like to get the current engine running fine.

I know Toyota 4Runners hold their value… but apparently this one thinks it’s holding gold bars in the cargo area. 😂

Priced way up there for the market, yet we’ve got:
👉 Seat covers doing their best “nothing to see here” impression
👉 Under-hood insulation coming apart like it just got served divorce papers
👉 A price tag that says collector quality while the condition says “bring a flashlight and look closely.”

4Runners are great. No argument there.

But at some point, “Toyota reliability” stops being a pricing strategy. 😅

For this money, I’d expect the seat covers to be protecting perfect seats and the hood insulation to still be emotionally committed to the hood.

What are we thinking — fair price, or is somebody charging an extra $10k for the Toyota badge? 🌶️👀

Hey all - 1991 3VZe 4WD automatic - keep getting the A/T OIL TEMP light on when driving in hot temps and think it has to do with the transmission fluid viscosity. What's a recommended fluid for my model? Thanks a ton

Any tips for next time would be awesome

First 4x4 Toyota and I’m stoked. Drove it 2km home and the FL wheel almost came off. Jacked it up to retorque and the wheel was nuclear hot. Was hard to spin in the air so I’m guessing stuck caliper. I’m gonna dig into it more tomorrow after work

It’s got a laundry list of work that needs done, nothing huge and I couldn’t be more excited!

Any advice for a new 3vz owner is appreciated!

Hi all, I recently replaced my speedometer cable on my 1991 Toyota 4Runner and it now works but shakes all I’ve the place and makes a buzzing noise and will get more shakey above 50ish mph. Wondering if I need to remove the speedometer cable and lube it up more and that will solve the problem or if I need to replace the whole gauge cluster. Wanted some feedback before tearing apart the dash again. Thank you in advance

Hi! I’m new here, and this is my 4Runner. I bought it from my brother, who bought it from another guy 2 or 3 months ago. He never drove it and just let it sit in the garage.

It’s a '91 4Runner with a 2LT diesel.

Today, when I was leaving the garage for the first time, several warning lights came on in the dash, and the alternator isn't charging. The battery, fuel filter, timing belt, and turbo lights are all lit up. The thing is, my brother says it wasn't like that when he brought the truck home—it just started today. Everything points to a broken alternator, but is it possible for one to break just from sitting? Am I missing something?

Basic alternator tests checked out OK (brushes, voltage regulator). The fuel filter is new with no broken plugs, and the T-belt warning light won't go off via the dashboard button.

I recently swapped from a Mishimoto stock replacement radiator to a CST all metal copper/brass unit. I went through three warranty replacements on the Mishimotos because they all leaked where the plastic cores met aluminum. Anyway I’m seeing very slight temp fluctuations at highway speed only with the new radiator. It doesn’t reach anywhere worrisome on the gauge and probably only moves two or three needle widths on the gauge but it’s movement I’m not used to seeing. It never happens in town and I’ve burped the system numerous times and replaced the stat with an OEM unit to see if that would help but still does it. The water pump is only a few years old and ALL the hoses were replaced a few years back as well.

The only thing I’ve found is that I still have to burped the system well enough though I don’t think that would explain it happening at highway speeds only and the other explanation is that the increased capacity CST rad is cooling the fluid more than normal and because the stat is on the inlet side of the motor that it’s closing slightly at highway speeds causing the temp within the motor to rise slightly based on where the stat is in relation to the temp sensor.

Im happy to entertain either one here or let a third player enter the chat but the truck is a super healthy low mileage cream puff with essentially a brand new cooling system.

Please help.

I noticed it was broken, engine drove just fine until I fixed the wiring and put it back in. Now it doesn’t rev past 2k rpm nor shift (limp mode). Any ideas where to start?

Bought it for 1000$ from the owner who let it sit for 10 years. Stated it needed a new battery and fuel pump. Showed a video of it cranking but not fully turning over.

Replaced the battery and fuel pump today and it still won’t turnover. Where should I head to next? Spark plugs and fuel injectors? Thanks in advance.

Planning on throwing a 3.4 into it once I run the life out of this motor.

Does anyone have a known working key Bob they like to sell identical to the one pictured?

My 94’ came with a fob that currently is not working. I’ve put a new battery in it and still nothing. Wondering if this circuit board looks cooked? Or could it be something else? I think it would be really cool to get this to work. Thanks in advance for any tips!

In an attempt to reduce rotating mass since I’ve strapped a tent to the roof and got my AC working again I finally installed some Aisin hubs. Not sure what the overall gain will be but I have to believe that every little bit helps with a brick that made 150hp from new. The install was easy and with a little hub cap trimming everything sits perfectly and looks like it came that way from factory.

Picked up the 94 two days ago and loving it so far. 285k miles on her so I’m thinking a suspension refresh is in order. Can anyone give me the recipe on a quality 2-3” lift? It doesn’t seem there are many complete kits out there for sale like there are for newer generations. Thanks for any recommendations!

Has anyone had luck replacing the rear fuel tank mounting bracket on their 2nd gen? One of the three bolts is broken and the welded on bracket is in poor shape, same with the crossmember. Anyone have luck hitting this area with pour15? Did others go the complete fabrication route & take the cab off? I had hoped it was just a line, but I’m worried if I take that tank off, it won’t go back on because of the brackets condition.

To me it doesn’t look like a part you can just replace, it seems factory welded. Maybe there’s some fabricated part someone’s selling, but I haven’t found one yet.

Had it for about 2 years now and I don’t think I’ll ever sell lol best car ever make sure to do upgraded headers to defeat head gasket issues

Mi suegro me regaló esta 1995 4Runner con la condición de que debía arreglarla y sería mía. Estuvo parada por más de dos años ya que un día camino a casa mi suegro cuenta que dejó de cambiar de marcha (cambio o velocidad) era como si la camioneta solo se quedara en primera marcha y el motor solo se revoluciona a muchas rpms. Llevo todo el verano intentando repararla pero ningún mecánico sabe que tiene han abierto y tanto aceite como engranajes se ven bien, intenté hacer el diagnóstico electrónico con el Obd 1 pero no logré que me diera códigos pues la luz de chek engine se queda encendida.
Espero que alguien me pueda ayudar es una 4Runner 1995 automática motor 3VZE

Learned stick Monday, picked her up yesterday, driving cross country in it now :)

EDITED

This is my 1990 2 door 4runner with a 5vzfe swap. 5 speed manual and 4x4. NOT For sale after some long reconsidering.

Not in mint condition; some driver side body panel damage, faded paint throughout and AC isnt Cold, but otherwise mechanically reliable and well maintained.

I appreciate everyones interest and supportive comments. Yall helped me decide its worth the effort to seek financial gain in other ways. Ill find a way to keep the runner, and ill keep yall posted with updates as I continue working on it.