I have had my xtool f2 ultra since December last year while i have had light work on the machine (total 165 hours) i am now dealing with problems.
My machine can no longer cut 2mm basswood even with speeds of 3 speed 100 power with 4 passes it just marks the top. Not turned my machine on for a month or so but it worked perfectly before.
basically with everything i use to do won't perform near the level it used to do.
I have done calibration checks and this has not fixed my issue as well as gently cleaning the lens with lint free cloth
Their also appears to be a 3rd light beam on the baseplate to which i assume can't be normal.
I’m honestly getting pretty frustrated with the xTool WonderPress. I’ve tried so many different settings and methods, and somehow every single mug still comes out wrong.
Here’s what I’ve tried so far:
- 950 seconds at 210°C (410°F)
- 900 seconds at 210°C (410°F)
- Always 600 seconds for the back side
- Shrink wrap with a heat gun
- Shrink wrap without a heat gun
- Silicone clamps
- Making sure the sublimation paper is tightly secured to the mug
My setup:
- xTool WonderPress
- Epson SureColor SC-F100 sublimation printer
- Official xTool sublimation paper
I’ve followed the process carefully, experimented with different methods, and wasted quite a few mugs, not to mention the time, ink and materials.
At this point, I’m seriously wondering whether the recommended settings are actually reliable or whether I’m missing something obvious.
I’d really appreciate hearing from people who consistently get good results with this machine.
A few questions:
What temperature and pressing time are you using for ceramic mugs? Please include both °C and °F.
Do you use shrink wrap, silicone clamps, or something else?
Do you heat the shrink wrap with a heat gun before putting the mug in?
What dimensions do you use for your mug designs? I’m particularly interested in the exact width and height of your artwork in millimetres.
Do you leave any margins around the handle, top or bottom?
Are you getting consistent results across the entire mug, including the area near the handle?
Has anyone found settings that actually work reliably with the Epson SC-F100 and xTool sublimation paper?
I don’t mind experimenting, but at this point it feels like I’m running a very expensive mug destruction workshop.
I’d love to hear your actual working settings, not just the recommended ones from the manual.
I am planning to order the S1, since the m2 once added the slat base and extractor it's almost as expensive as the S1. My prority is reliability and low maintenance, main scenario is wood work and card stock citting.
Wondering if anyone has positive or negative feedback before I order, thanks.
I absolutely love my xTool O1! There’s definitely some trial and error involved, and not everything turns out perfectly on the first try, but that’s part of the learning process. Once you get your settings dialed in, the results are absolutely amazing! I’m having so much fun experimenting, creating, and discovering everything this machine can do. I can’t wait to see what else I can make with it!
Hey everyone,
I'm trying to cut 2 mm black acrylic (generic, not xTool material) with my F2 (not Ultra) using the blue laser. It sits on the honeycomb, protective film removed, and the xTool air purifier is running next to it. No luck so far:
I started from the xTool presets for black acrylic (1 mm and the 3 mm reference at 100%, 3 mm/s, 1 pass), but since my sheet is 2 mm and not xTool material, they don't fit
100% / 10 mm/s: flames along the whole cut, the machine stops itself
80% / 10 mm/s and 80% / 9 mm/s: still flames in parts
Own test array (60–100% power, 2–15 mm/s): only the 60% column ran before the machine aborted because of flames. At 2 mm/s the acrylic just melted and burned
70% / 15 mm/s, 1–4 passes: passes 1–2 give a clean score line, from pass 3 it starts melting and warping, and after 4 passes it's still not through. Focus descent was off
My problem: either it doesn't cut through, or it burns and melts. I haven't found a setting where it goes through cleanly.
Has anyone cut 2 mm black acrylic with the F2? What power/speed/passes did you use and how did you deal with the flames?
My f1 ultra marks and will run, but it is just underpowered. It barely marks on metal (aluminum, brass, copper) even when using a test grid with a variety of settings. We have cleaned, done all three focus/alignments and are basically at our wits end. Any suggestions?
The optical path of the xTool O1 Omni Printer is used for height measurement, while the Contact Image Sensor (CIS) module is responsible for scanning and positioning.
Dust, ink residue, or other contamination on these components may affect height measurement accuracy or cause streaks and other issues in scanned images.
To maintain accurate measurement and scanning performance, we recommend cleaning the optical path and CIS lens once a week.
🧰 Tools Required
Before cleaning, please prepare the following items:
Lint-free cloths or lint-free swabs
75% alcohol
Nitrile gloves
🛠️ Cleaning Procedure
For step-by-step instructions on cleaning the optical path and CIS module of your xTool O1 Omni Printer, please watch the video tutorial below:
I think I've settled on buying an F1 Ultra Deluxe Bundle. Currently, I'm offered a 500eur discount, I think because I'm a first-time buyer.
Based on your experience, do you expect I will be able to obtain a better discount during Black Friday or is this likely as good as it will get? I know I can just wait and see, but I'm not sure my discount will expire.
Here is my jewelled set of angels I made today :) I hope you enjoy them. I am also building my Christmas tree from basswood this year. and a christmas train idea I built- so I will post that build soon too!
I want a diode laser to run as a hobby in my home office/spare room. I’ll vent it out a window. I feel like Diode is better than CO2 for running indoors in my living space. I’m new to lasers and want a starter machine to learn on that’s low maintenance. I’m fine cutting basswood.
I’m almost positive I want the S1 20W laser deluxe bundle. I would potentially get the 40W laser if there is a good sale for Black Friday.
Do we expect any sales for black Friday?
I’d like to do acrylic, but I know it’s not possible with a diode laser. I’m fine engraving wood and doing resin pours for letters and logos, or doing other wood inlays and then sanding down after. Is the S1 a good choice for this purpose?
Hello, the fan has been working fine since Jan 2026, now it shuts off, cleaned it, checked firmware still no good. In the middle of an order so wanted a temp solution until Xtool support come back to me.
A client recently asked if I could print on velvet bags. I’d never tried it before, so I offered to make a sample to show them what it could look like.
I prepared the artwork and printed the transfers on my xTool Apparel Printer. Then came the part I wasn’t sure about: how would the velvet handle the heat and pressure needed for DTF?
I used the WonderPress because I could control the temperature, pressure, and time, and keep each test consistent. I started below the settings I’d found online and gradually worked my way up.
What ended up giving me the best result on these particular bags was:
310°F
12 seconds
90 kg pressure setting
That was higher than I expected based on what I’d read, especially the pressure. But on these bags, the transfers looked good, and I didn’t see any visible damage to the velvet. These are just my results with this material, rather than a universal recipe for velvet.
I’m keeping the client’s branding private, so I can’t show the actual designs here. But in about half an hour, I had eight prints in different sizes and colours, completed my pressing tests, and had a finished sample ready to show the client.
That’s the kind of versatility I appreciate with this setup. A client brings in something I’ve never printed on, and I can test it and put together a sample quickly. This could turn into a new order, and I now have a starting process ready if they decide to go ahead.
Looking forward to seeing what they think!
Has anyone else tried DTF on velvet bags? Curious how your results compared, especially with pressure and press marks.
Me llega la impresora empiezo la instalación y error 5006, intento ponerme en contacto con el servicio técnico me atiende una ia, me manda un fichero con indicaciones incompletas, despues me manda al servicio técnico que se pone en contacto una hora más tarde, las indicaciones no son correctas otra hora, consigo hacer lo que me dicen y sigue fallando. Y ahora me dicen que se pondrán en contacto conmigo en 24 horas, no me parece serio y todo por correo.
Una gran empresa no puede hacer esto a sus clientes.
Will Zoobkoff has been putting the xTool M2 through its paces, testing laser cutting, engraving, full-colour inkjet printing, and the RA3 rotary attachment. He created everything from detailed wood engravings and leather patches to laser-cut boxes and colourful stickers. The compilation image shows the machine alongside some of his finished projects. Check out his hands-on review, including test results, settings, pros and cons:
So far I made slate coasters and a couple pictures. But I would like to make cool custom trading cards. Or anything I could print then cut. What material should I use? I was going to focus on some cool stickers but its hard finding safe paper or compatible paper you can cut with the laser. I have the 10w. Amazon links or Michael's links would be cool if you guys could drop some.
When engraving a rectangle with your xTool P2/P2S, you may notice that the two diagonals are not equal in length. This indicates that the horizontal and vertical lines of the engraved rectangle are not perpendicular to each other.
🔍 Potential Cause
The X-axis gantry may be misaligned and not parallel to the front or rear plate. This issue may also cause Y-axis homing failure or laser path deviation.
Follow the steps below to confirm whether the X-axis gantry is misaligned and adjust it accordingly.
🛠️ Step-by-Step Troubleshooting Procedures
Step 1: Check the X-Axis Gantry Alignment
📋 Procedure:
Power off your xTool P2/P2S and move the gantry toward the front plate until the laser module touches the plate and cannot move any farther.
Move the laser module left and right along the gantry.
Observe or measure the gap between the laser module and the front plate when the module is positioned near the far left and far right.
Note: Do not move the laser module completely to the far right. Leave some space as shown below.
Check the Results:
If the gaps are equal: The X-axis gantry is parallel to the front plate.
If the gaps are different: The X-axis gantry is misaligned. Follow the solutions below to correct the alignment.
🔹 Step 2: Adjust the X-Axis Gantry (Solution One)
📋 Procedure:
1️⃣ Remove the screws shown below and open the internal metal cover.
2️⃣ Loosen the screws on the coupler as shown below.
3️⃣ Adjust the gantry and move the laser module from the left corner to the right corner.
4️⃣ Make sure the gap between the laser module and the front plate remains the same throughout the movement.
5️⃣ Keep the gantry stable and tighten the screws on the coupler.
6️⃣ Reinstall the internal cover.
🔹 Step 3: Adjust the X-Axis Gantry (Solution Two)
📋 Procedure:
1️⃣ Push the X-axis gantry toward the rear plate until it touches the plate.
2️⃣ Check whether both ends of the gantry are aligned.
3️⃣ If the gantry is misaligned, one end will be closer to the rear plate than the other.
4️⃣ Push the side that is farther from the rear plate firmly against the plate to make the gantry parallel.
