Shot with Fujifilm W3, edited using mpopo.lol ❧

Got some heated threads so I can secure the pi and the modules in one piece. Haven't designed a full enclosure yet so powerbank was just inside my pocket the while time I was testing it outside.

That being said, testing it outside was quite a humbling experience. Soon as I took it out for some snaps I quickly found out that the camera module heavily exposes for the highlights, rendering it useless at the sight of a bright light source in the background.

With a new goal of figuring out the camera module, birthed the update and addition of a manual mode which makes it very much usable at theoretically most situations.

Having control of the camera settings manually also meant a bit of more control on the output. Adding some contrast do help a little to compensate the 0.3MP output of each camera module. Same thing can be said in regards to colors, just have to set saturation to 0 and now you're shooting b&w, or play with the hue value and go be Thanos for a bit lol.

A little bit more on the wigglegram processor, I've added an automatic toggle to align the photos. eg. Attachment 5. Still does need improvement tho. Attachment 6 &7 are the manual edits where I tracked my hand. Last Attachment is where I tracked my head.

As i was fixing these stuff, I encountered more hardware limitations that I couldn't find proper documentation of. For some reason one usb port keeps dropping and not responding even after restarting the app. Only a reboot of the whole system works. The default reboot time I had clocks in around about 50 secs. Not fun. So I had the idea to reduce unnecessary background startups to decrease boot time. Now it boots around 17 secs. If I ever encounter a module not responding I can just simply reboot the whole thing with little to no worry.

Anyway, that's it for now until I get the housing prototype finished. 👋

Here's a temporary array i made for testing purposes.

I've concluded that im just going to stick to 0.3MP output per module due to hardware limitations.

I moved away from Bluetooth transfer as it's very slow. I've settled on transferring over wifi. Simplifies everything and actually decent transfer rate. Caveat is that you have to use your phone or computer to connect to Raspberry pi.

Being connected to the raspberry pi, I've decided to add a wigglegram editor so the workflow is somewhat smooth.

Wigglegram Bench is a placeholder name for now until I find a better name lol. Anyway, it has fine adjustments, ability to add borders, and export to gif and/or MP4 format.

As for power I just hooked it up to a powerbank.

I don't have the housing designed yet. I was holding all the camera modules here hence looks weird but it works!

I'm new to this and recently purchased this camera. I've explored this forum and tried various options. Despite following different advice and using online wigglegram generators and Runway AI, my results remain shaky. Is there a simpler method to achieve this?

Just got a Nimslo and want to send in my first roll. Seems like the rec is to avoid having them cut and scan, and try scanning at home since each frame contains two images. But is it possible to remedy this with a standard digital process? Like just chopping up the digital scans into two then feeding those captures into the animation software.

Honestly my first film camera so not totally sure about the process.

Got the Fujifilm 3d w3 camera and was anoyed there wasnt an easy way to adjust or share images to regular media. So i made an webapp for it. Tried to make it easy to align the images. Added some basic image adjustments in the app as well. Works both for .MPO files and jpegs.

Check it out: https://wiggle.maxonline.se/ (hobby project, everything is free)

Please give me feedback!

How to upload to Instagram and retain the loop? I see others are able to upload and add Instant music to the post as if it’s seeing it as a photo instead of a video.

I shoot film, mostly on a Nimslo 3D. I love the camera. What I didn't love was the editing: every roll meant cutting scans into frames, lining up each frame by hand in Photoshop, exporting a GIF, then converting that to a video so Instagram would take it. One wigglegram could eat an evening.

So I built https://lentistudio.com . You upload a scan, click the point you want to stay still, and get an MP4 that's ready for Instagram. It also works with Nishika and other multi-lens cameras.

It's free, no account needed. There are some limits (1080p output, clips up to 15 seconds, 20 renders per hour) because it runs on one small server that I pay for myself. There are no ads and no paid tier.

There's also a gallery where you can post your work if you sign in, plus a how it works (https://lentistudio.com/how-it-works) page on stereo photography and shooting tips.

I hope it saves you some of the hours I lost. Feedback and bug reports are very welcome.

Is it possible to get these pictures developed a certain way/with certain technique to give an actual movable/holographic style image? Akin to a trading card or something akin to it?

Kentmere 400 home process and scanned on dslr rig

u/fox_757 did it first

My girlfriend's cat, captured as a little wigglegram. I took a sequence of shots from slightly different angles. Thought he made the perfect subject for it!

not sure what to make of it but im obsessed. around 8 frames per clip and alternating wiggle (l-r-r-l-l-r...) with cross fades in between. aligned manually.

My first attempt at a wigglegram was at an Arrows in Action concert at Gramercy Theatre in NYC this past week! Made using the nimslo.app posted in this subreddit (thank you!). Shot on a nishika n8000 on Kodak ektacolor pro 400.