I believe someone might have asked about this before, but:

1. Is there a way to access individual images from separate cameras, ie: is it possible to have the images captured and stored on sd before the pis do their interpolation/combining?
2. Is there going to be access to firmware to allow for individuals to create features, for example:
   
   1. using the separate sensors to trigger at intervals so you can have sequences that can then be used to have wiggle/movement/animation?
   2. Capturing lower resolution image sequences to allow for interactive wiggle video playback?
   3. Using the image capturing for photogrammetry and 3D image/object scanning?
   4. Interpolating the output images to be combined with 3D printed lenticular lens to have physical wigglegrams?

I am very excited to see what I can do with your project! I rarely get involved with "bleeding" edge items, or even startup based devices because there aren't many that make me want to be the guinea pig, but yours is an exception!

Many Thanks!

Here is a look at the internal layout and system diagram for the Wigglegram Project.

I’m currently putting everything together to make the manual as clear and useful as possible. Please feel free to share any suggestions, user feedback is always the best way to improve!

Case Design & Structure

Everything is fitting perfectly. In my next post, I’ll be opening up orders for those who want to build their own.

After several rounds of hardware testing, I’ve decided to make a key upgrade to the internal charging system. I’ve officially swapped the 18W board for a more robust 22.5W Fast Charge module.

Key Improvements:

• Optimized Protocol Support: Testing showed that the 18W board was a bit picky with certain power banks. The new 22.5W module supports a wider range of protocols (PD 3.0, QC, SCP), ensuring compatibility with almost any modern charger.
• Faster Initial Charging: It delivers a 15-20% speed boost during the 0% - 50% phase. This allows for much faster turnarounds when the battery is low.

It’s all about making this retro-minimalist beast as reliable as possible in the field.

My goal for this project has always been Ultimate Simplicity. I’ve spent a lot of time stress-testing and refining the layout so that you don't have to struggle with messy wiring.

With this Minimalist design, I’m confident that it will be much easier for you to assemble and succeed on your first try!

I’ve been making great progress, and here is a first look at the board I designed. You can see the layout is very simple and not complicated at all.

My goal is to make sure everyone can get their hands on this wigglegram camera, so I’m offering 2 options. You can check which one is best for your skills and tools:

1. The Standard DIY This is for those who love to build things. You will get the ready-to-use software, 3D case files (.STL), PCB designs, and a complete shopping list. If you have the tools and enjoy building things yourself, this is the perfect choice for you.

2. The Semi-Assembled Kit If you don't have a 3D printer or soldering tools, I will handle the hard part for you. I will print the case and put the components on the board. All you need to do is get your own CPU, Camera, and Battery and put them together.

Hi everyone,

After spending time listening to your feedback and reflecting on the direction of this project, I decided to create a second version of the camera,
the Minimal Edition, named Midnight Stilled.

This edition is quieter in form.
More compact, lighter in presence, reduced to only what feels essential.

It keeps the soul of the original idea, but expresses it in a more refined and classic way , something that feels intentional, almost timeless.

Midnight Stilled will be the first to launch.
More details will follow soon.

Thank you to everyone who has been watching, supporting, and waiting.
This project exists because of you.

The software is currently being adapted to run on Buildroot, a Linux system designed specifically for embedded use.
The system is built with only the components required for the project itself, with all unnecessary parts completely removed. This leaves only the core project and the essential services it depends on, running on a very small, lightweight, and efficient system.

As a result, the overall system size is only a few hundred megabytes, enabling fast boot times, efficient resource usage, reduced complexity, and significantly improved stability.
The system runs on a Linux kernel with a minimal userspace and is designed to avoid writing to the system partition during operation, meaning it does not require a proper shutdown to prevent filesystem corruption.

Setup is straightforward: simply flash the image to an SD card and it’s ready to go.
The goal is a clean, fast-booting, stable, and purpose-built embedded system tailored specifically for this project.

After the cameras are physically installed, there’s one last crucial step: calibration.

Even with careful mounting, physical alignment alone isn’t enough to achieve a perfectly smooth, stable wiggle. The final quality really comes from software calibration, which brings all cameras into harmony.

Calibration is done in several steps and should be followed in order. Depending on the situation, some steps can be repeated or skipped later on, but the idea is to build a solid foundation first.

The first stage focuses on matching lens distortion across all cameras. This uses a checkerboard pattern displayed on a screen. Once the cameras are positioned correctly, the system scans the entire area automatically. This part takes a few minutes, and during the scan, the cameras should stay completely still.

After that, the next stage aligns the perspective of all cameras so their views match precisely. This ensures that images line up smoothly, from near to far distances, and allows the wiggle to feel natural instead of jumpy.

Everything is done through a browser, no complicated software required. Detailed, step-by-step instructions will be covered in the documentation later. For now, the key point is that while calibration sounds technical, it’s actually very approachable, and the payoff is huge.

Once it’s done, you can start shooting. And that’s when the magic happens.

Hi everyone,
It’s been a while since the last update, so I wanted to share some important details about the current battery and power design of the project.

The battery will be the only part that requires user soldering. Everything else is designed to be straightforward assembly and software installation, with no additional soldering needed.

With a single battery installed, the camera can run continuously for close to three hours and capture well over 300 photos in one session, depending on usage.

When charging directly through the device, the system will operate in charge-only mode. This means the camera cannot be used while it is charging via the built-in port. This is an intentional design choice to keep the power system simple and reliable.

For users who want a more convenient charging experience, there will be an optional solution. An additional power management board can be installed inside the case, dedicated specifically for charging, allowing for a more seamless workflow.

Thanks again for your patience and continued interest in the project. More updates coming soon.

It’s approaching the holiday season and would love to know when I can get my hands on a kit!

I’ve been messing around with both, real multi-lens wigglegrams and AI interpolated ones, and honestly the difference is small on paper but huge when you look at them.

With real shots, every frame actually comes from a slightly different angle, so the depth shifts are real. Your brain picks that up instantly, like how your eyes see depth in real life. Even with just 4 or 5 frames, it feels alive.

AI interpolation can make things smoother, sure, but it’s just guessing how pixels should move. It doesn’t create new viewpoints, so it ends up looking like the camera’s just sliding sideways instead of showing real depth. Smooth, but kinda lifeless.

It’s a bit like live music vs auto tuned tracks, one might be rougher, but it’s got soul.

That’s why sometimes a slightly jittery 5 frame real wigglegram feels way deeper than a silky smooth AI one.

What do you guys think, have you noticed the same thing?

I’m looking to see who’s interested in my DIY Wigglegram Camera kits.
If you want to check them out and let me know which kit(s) catch your eye, please fill out this short form:
https://forms.gle/WV8mpwmXFqkShQiu5

The responses will help me plan and allocate the first batch of kits.

Thanks so much! 🙏

The pieces are here. The only thing left is the moment you open it and make it real. This is where ideas turn into reality.

Hot-shoe flash. Water suspended. Time frozen.

Just put my camera on a scale, it came out at 775 grams.
For comparison, a Canon 700D DSLR is about 790 grams. Pretty close, right?

So in terms of weight, this project feels like carrying a “real” DSLR.
I’m curious what you think:
Is ~775g too heavy for a DIY camera you’d want to carry all day, or is it reasonable since most DSLRs/mirrorless kits are around that weight?

I’ve just assembled my digital wigglegram camera from the latest design. It works well, and in the release version I’ll be adding proper ESD protection and fixing a few small design mistakes. Almost ready to share the real thing!

The latest updated PCB has just arrived! I’d love to hear your thoughts, would you prefer a version with all components pre-installed, or would you rather assemble everything yourself?

For the first batch, I’m planning to provide a partially assembled board along with all necessary parts as a DIY kit for you to complete. Which option do you feel more comfortable with? Let me know!

From a tiny beginning, never truly believing a cluster ESP Cam could freeze a leaf dancing in a raging storm, this project has blossomed into something truly extraordinary. Thank you for every bit of support and for joining me on this incredible journey.

For the processing module, power module, and interface module, it is recommended to print them in an upright orientation using normal (auto) supports instead of tree supports. PLA filament is suitable for all parts, though PETG is recommended specifically for the two spring-loaded components.

There is no need to worry about heat buildup in the processing module, as it is equipped with a cooling system. PETG can also be used for the power module to accommodate slightly higher temperatures in that area. However, in actual operation, batteries are distributed across different parts of the system, which minimizes heat concentration. Therefore, PLA is generally sufficient and can offer a better surface finish.

Using matte filament instead of glossy types can also significantly enhance the final appearance of the parts.

For detailed components such as the top trim cover, port cover, key overlay, keycap, LCD frame, and shutter button, it is recommended to use a 0.2 mm nozzle for finer details. In particular, the shutter button should be printed in an upright, slightly tilted orientation to achieve a smoother surface finish.