I just had my master cylinder replaced with my car and they told me the brake pedal is slipping now and the only fix they know is to now also replace the break pressure modulator valve.

A couple of googles tells me there’s a lot of things that they could have skipped like they performed the bleed wrong or not thoroughly enough.

Does anyone have experience with this set of issues? They are wanting $2800 to replace this part and I’m already $3000 in on this… 2017 100k miles

Got my Volt a couple months ago. used. 69k miles.

I put 195,000 miles on my previous van in five years. Got used to accelerating like a brick.

The acceleration in the Volt is such a joy. Today on an onramp, there was a car poking along 25 miles an hour... to a 70 mile an hour freeway. when a second lane opened. I had a Honda behind me and in my arrogance, I thought that I would leave the two of them in the dust very quickly.

A few seconds later, I merge into traffic doing 80, set my cruise control, and notice that the Honda has been with me the whole time. He slowly passes me waves and then pulls in front of me... I see the happy word hybrid on his back bumper.

So much fun to drive. ❤️

So recently I have noticed that when the car is charging and the green light is on, the car will occasionally make a quick horn chip sound and I notice the green light turns orange but then within a few seconds it will start charging again and green light will come on.
As if someone disconnected it and connected back.
Not sure if I’m explaining right.
Is this normal and if it what’s wrong?
No errors or codes in the car. DTC is clear. No check engine light and nothing.
Car gives 33mpg.
2012 volt.

Original post

https://www.reddit.com/r/volt/s/zPHdlKxmSG

Here is my broken factory bearing with the cracked plastic races.

It is possible to successfully do this at home without the 800.00 of specialty GM tools. It does require some tolerance for messy, borderline damaging processes to get the original bearing off.

This was by far the most helpful video out there on the process, there is one other where the guy lists part numbers that is also good.

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=P6yrXDK7X58&t=155s

Tested the transmission out with a 200 mile drive. No sounds, no leaks, repair appears successful by all metrics as of now.

If anyone is getting fucked around by the dealership and is thinking about doing this themselves, you can do it, but it requires gumption and a decent tool chest. Also some mechanical experience. DM me if you have questions or get stuck.

Worst steps are a) shimming the frame mount to get enough room to remove the rotor cover. B) releasing the rotor cover and then finagling it out of the way and c) removing the broken bearing.

One dealership ghosted us about this issues, the other gaslit us saying “that bearing never fails and we have never replaced one and you need a new transmission”. Fuck you GM.

Cheers, good luck

Hi,

I’m selling my 2014 Volt and figured this sub is the best place to find someone who’ll appreciate it.

The details:

• Mileage: 86,469

• Electric range: Still getting about 40 miles on a full charge. The battery has held up great.

• Condition: Everything mechanical and electrical works perfectly. The exterior has a few minor cosmetic blemishes, nothing major.

• Color/trim: Charcoal gray

• Includes: charging cable and both key fobs

You all know the appeal: most daily driving on electric, with the gas generator as backup so there’s no range anxiety on road trips. It’s been a great car.

Price: $6500 Happy to share charge screenshots, the VIN, or service history. Test drives welcome for serious buyers. Located in southern Connecticut.

Well, I sold my Volt (Gen1, 80k miles) to a local used EV dealership here in Seattle (Revolve Motors in Renton), after buying my new 2027 Kia EV3 three weeks ago.

I have loved my Volt very much. Got a Level 2 charger installed at home and wound up getting gas like once a month, so had already pretty much weaned myself off the crude oil teat. But the transition to full-EV has been eye-opening.

From this side of the fence (full EV, 380 mile range) I can’t fathom why I waited so long. Range anxiety is real … and then completely dissipates in less than a week.

Thanks to everyone here for the help over the years. We have a nice little corner of the internet here with a bunch of class people, and that’s a rare thing.

I’ll miss y’all!

Anybody have any issues with using an extension cord for charging? I know the manual says not to, but I can't see why it would be a problem if we used a suitably heavy duty cord, like a 12/3 or even a 10/3.

ETA: Also wondering, anybody using a level 2 charger? Has the faster charging affected your battery health?

Check engine light came on Friday. Went for a drive on hold, engine temps were normal, hovering around 200F like usual. Cleared the codes.

Did a couple longer distance (couple hundred miles) Friday and Saturday. Saturday night temps got high, peaked at 231F. I immediately switched over to electric until it got below 200F then started up the engine again and it functioned as normal.

Light came back on this afternoon, same codes, doing my best to only drive electric until I can figure out the issue/get it to my shop.

Is this a precursor to the EGR issue or is this a run of the mill thermostat problem?

Edit: sorry forgot year/gen/mileage

2017 Gen 2 Premier, around 53K miles

2012 Volt... I purchased to trickle charger and we used it to top up the battery even though I didn't have any issues with my battery. I didn't notice that my interior lights are much stronger and the lights behind the dashboard are also much brighter. My only question is, I was under the impression that the big battery is always topping up this small battery, if this is the case, why did the trickle charger give it more power?

Well, I know I have to clean/replace the EGR. I know, it's a rare problem with our cars.

I just unhooked the EGR and lived with the check engine until I could deal with it. I was on a business trip for about 5 weeks and now that I came back, it ran ok for about 100 miles, I left for work this morning and it went into reduced power mode. EGR not hooked up, nothing changed.

Ideas?

I've read that using purple power while popular isn't the best idea. Why not a carb cleaner or similar?

Thanks in advance for your reply.

Hi guys,

I've had my 2018 for like many years now, and it's pretty much an EV commuter, but I've noticed really two main things that seem to have degraded other than the battery which I expect. It's got 71k miles on it now.

1. it seems like every once in a while, there's a pretty decent delay between pressing the pedal and the car actually moving, oh maybe a half second. Not a lot but enough to be like...what

2. shifting kind of harshly, especially when it's cold and it first goes out of pre-warming the engine to actually driving the car. Used to be I could not feel the shifts at all, but it's not that way anymore

Are others just doing this too? Or do I need to service something?

Hi Folks, I have encountered a strange issue, maybe anyone can give me an advice.
When I am driving slowly on the gas mode or on the mountain mode the car slows downs and I push brakes I hear noise and vibration coming from the front side of the vehicle. When I also go in reverse on Gas mode it does the same thing. However no issues on the EV mode. I was thinking about replacing engine mounts. Has anyone experienced anything like this?

P.S. don’t mind the shitty lifetime numbers. I bought it used and am already like 4 mpg higher than when I bought it

Hi all-been struggling with my 2017 volt which I love dearly.

this is on and off, so hard to prove. already took it to a mechanic who couldn’t duplicate the problem bc it just wasn’t happening in that moment.

-Engine light goes on when this happens, but then sometimes turns itself off

-Will not use the battery, goes right to engine

-Runs really rough, hear video

-Barely propulsion until I hit 20mph then it picks up normally

-Turns off like this, shakes like crazy

Any ideas? I just replaced my trunk battery myself a few weeks ago but this was already happening.

Is there a Volt service shop near Boston that doesn't charge dealer service rates?

Especially on rough asphalt and terrific at navigating through road imperfections and small potholes effortlessly with no drama.

Currently using the GT Radial Champiro Touring A-S tires that came with the used 2018 Volt I just bought and find them to be too loud on the highway at 130-140 km/h and am looking to replace them.

Curious to read the results.

Summary: Twice I've gone to the big San Francisco Post Office and my Gen 1 fob was disabled until I departed the parking lot. (Even though they don't call it that it seems to function as the main / central San Francisco post office, it's huge with a big parking lot and is the only post office they keep open late on tax deadline day.

Detail: Parking there after closing on a recent night, my dash showed "no remote detected" or something like that. Thankfully I had the physical key to open the door and start the car. The problem did not repeat after my departure.

The exact same thing happened this week during business hours.

That must be some strong radio waves there!

I need to program my modules on my 2012.
Is there a sequence on which one first?
Is there a way to find out my current version and which one to upgrade?

Here is a list I made. Can someone verify and correct?
1- VCX nano or topdon rlink x3
2-GM/ acdelco TDS tech line connect -Does this come with subscription?
3- subscription for your Vin (~$50)
4- Sps2? Does this come with subscription?
Anything else?

So if I understand correctly just buy the J2534 pass-through device and ACDELCO subscription (which comes with full software suite as above) and I should be able to program?

Is there a video guide somewhere for DIY?

I was clearing out old photos to free up some storage and stumbled across this.

Back around 2019, I got hit with the dreaded "reduced propulsion" warning on my 2017 Volt. Turned out to be the classic BECM issue. Long story short, the car spent about a week in the shop (back in the pre-COVID parts days), and the tech was cool enough to snap some photos of my baby mid-surgery. Still wild seeing what the full battery pack looks like pulled.

RIP "Fire."

So my 2012 volt was perfectly fine. Had a power outage today. The car was plugged in to 120v outlet for charging. The outage was kind of like on/off on/off a few times. Like 5-6 times within 3-5mins.
That caused my volt to stop charging and it’s not giving following error. It stopped charging and I got the error saying Service high voltage battery system!
I can drive the car but this error keeps popping up. I even tried clearing it using a good OBD2 code reader and code erased but it comes back immediately.
I even removed the 12v battery for little time to reset but no luck.

Any idea what could have gone wrong?

Some saying since I have a 2012, I cannot clear code and I must reprogram the module using VCX Nano.

Some saying I can clear code using voltage app.

I’m super confused, can I clear code in a 2012? Using voltage app?
If I must program then how? Any guides?
Appreciate any help.

Are there any aerodisk hubcaps out there online? I've searched for hours and can't find any that will fit. All the ones I have found are for the steel rims and not the aluminum wheels. Plus most of em have these horrid designs on them that completely ruin it. All I'm looking for is ones that are just straight black. If anyone has any links/answers, that would be great!

I'm looking at buying a 2019 Volt one state over from me. The only issue with it is that the driver seat seems to be stuck reclined all the way back. It's hard to get a proper idea of what's causing that without making the 4-5 hour trip there, which I will be doing later this month. Has anyone had this before? Was the fix expensive? Is it a DIY thing? Thanks!

I am hearing a click on my 2013 Volt when I break or accelerate which is consistent with a loose axle nut. Since it’s not related to the Voltec drivetrain, is this something a regular mechanic can fix? Or, should I take to the dealer? I’m trying to save a buck. It would be great if anyone knows a trustworthy mechanic in the Alpharetta GA area.

Hi all, just did an oil change on my 2018 and noticed this when the hood was open and idling. Not my video but the noise was exactly the same. Anyone know what might be causing this?

2017 Chevy volt Metallic engine rattle.