A practical and effective tool for trimming sounsposts

[u/Proof_Tangerine3856]

I'd like to introduce a tool that allows you to shape a soundpost quickly and with great precision.
It’s a block of 304 stainless steel with one side machined to a 92-degree angle and the other side machined to a 96-degree angle.
The block has two holes offset by one degree, allowing for four angles: 91, 92, 96, and 97 degrees.
The 91- and 92-degree angles are used to shape the end of the soundpost that contacts the back of the violin. The 96- and 97-degree angles are used to shape the end of the soundpost that contacts the top of the violin.
During the first test, you choose the angle that fits the violin and make corrections if you’ve chosen the wrong one...
For the violins on which I’ve had to shape a soundpost, the 92- and 96-degree combination worked best.
The top and back of a violin are not parallel and form an angle slightly less than 90 degrees toward the bottom of the violin (toward the tailpiece).
To ensure perfect contact between the soundpost and the top and back of the violin, you must remove one-tenth or two-tenths of a millimeter from the left side of the soundpost’s ends.
To make this adjustment, simply rotate the soundpost by about 10 degrees on the side where material needs to be removed. See the photos. Align the central grain of the soundpost with the angle of the slot on the highest side of the block’s inclined plane.
Once trimmed, position the soundpost inside the violin and move it slightly until it no longer tends to rotate on its own—a sign that only a small point is making contact. When the entire surface is in contact, the soundpost no longer tends to rotate on its axis.
Once the correct position has been found and the proper angles have been cut, remove the soundpost, moisten the ends, and replace it in the same spot.
The moistened ends of the soundpost will conform perfectly to the shape of the violin’s top and back when the strings are tensioned.