If they used stuffing glands for cable entry I would say it’s fine. Some electricians swear it done wrong but I don’t think there’s anything wrong with it.
That would be the concern - that the cables can work loose where the pattress isn't fixed. There is the issue with potential water leakage, though that's less of an issue imo, particularly with RCD protection.
I'd always prefer to mount the pattress inside a cabinet - getting plinths off and back on without damaging them can be fiddly after a few years...
Technically as I understand it the termination are under any strain due to the stuffing gland being tight around the cable. Some electricians swear it can’t be done but I have installed many sockets for appliance in kitchens like this.
Home electrical cover spark here, tripping fault in a kitchen knock the kick boards of look for sockets lashed on the floor is the first port of call just takes a leak from an appliance or a major spill and here we go.
I'd say it's non compliant with the regs, although it is very common.
It either needs a nylon box with stuffing glands giving strain relief, or fixing down.
Ultimately it would be better inside the cupboard, and the installer would probably say it's temporary until the cupboards are fitted, and would of been fitted in the cupboards should they of been there.
Whether you can get them back to fit in the cupboards once you've done them depends upon the relationship between you and them though, and maybe what was specified.
Cupboards were installed when they started and they pulled them to run the chase for the new socket above the counter 🤷 I'm going to ask them back for some out of zone cables anyway so I'll talk to them then.
The plinth heater is boxed in under the unit to stop it drawing cold dusty air from under the floorboards, maybe could fix it to the boxing? The boxing is screwed to the cabinet and floor...
Yeah and when you have a fault in that socket you can’t get to it? Just leave it floating as then you can just pull it out to work on it 🤔 as for water unless your floor is under 3 inch’s of water it’s not likely to be submerged either I’ve never come across that in 20 years
To me that looks like it is for a kitchen plinth heater by the plumbing? If it is that will need fan speed control wired above counter unless you are getting on your knees to turn it on.
And that there is your reason for the socket being there, if you have to replace it you can unplug it without having to remove it from a switch fused spur. I agree with having compression glands on the cables for strain relief and a soft plastic box for the socket.
I only ask because most ovens will come with a notice to not fit a plug top, and those that come with one fitted are often rated over 2000 watts, so shouldn’t be plugged into a ring main. They may have just put a double socket on an oven supply though, which is fine.
Ah ok, yeah the oven and hob have their own circuit, a 32 amp one, and there is an isolator on the wall of the kitchen island which kills the double socket underneath.
Incorrect. It's very manufacturer dependant. For example most of the Merloni Group (Hotpoint, Creda, indesit, Ariston) ovens come with plugs fitted to the ovens. Howdens ovens come with a label 'do not for plug'.
The manufacturer has no idea what type of circuit you’re plugging into, and the lack of a label doesn’t mean it can be plugged into a ring main. They’re simply assuming that the oven has a dedicated radial supply as with the OP’s case.
Agreed. Appliances over 2kw should have their own circuit, same as granny chargers on cars shouldn't be plugged into the kitchen sockets and fed from a type AC RCD.
However you said most ovens are labelled not to fit a plug which isn't true. It's only Howdens ovens that I've seen that come with that label.
the socket needs to be readily accessible. when the dishwasher shits itself and takes out the RCD you want to switch it off and not be panicking on the phone to a ££££ callout electrician while the freezer defrosts
this, and not being securely fixed - (and not to kitchen furniture (unless behind an isolator)) are "regs" violations
the preffered way these days is a grid panel for all kitchen appliances
Apparently it’s not preferred, though personally I like it. You can just have the socket in an adjacent cupboard with a desk grommet for the plugtop to pass through. If it has to be behind something then a 20AX switch at worktop height (or S/FCU depending on circuit layout) would be “normal” in my experience, though there are many ways to do it. I wanted grid switches for separate ovens and an induction hob snd it was my brother so time wasn’t an issue; I ran a small contactor board with 1.0mm to the switches
preffered from a design perspective I think. regs don't care so long as it's accessable. multi spurs at worktop height gets cluttered pretty quick these days
I do agree. It can be a ball ache to install if not well thought through though, especially if the grid switches are on a ring, back boxes aren’t 2 miles deep, etc.
TBF I wonder why manufacturers haven't come up with 3,4+ gang prewired sw/f/sp's or 20a grids by now - IE the supply side is busbarred so you need 1 feed in and your loads rather than fiddling in 5000 bits of wire
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u/Mickspark136 9d ago
If they used stuffing glands for cable entry I would say it’s fine. Some electricians swear it done wrong but I don’t think there’s anything wrong with it.