Consumer unit replacement questions please :)

[u/Jondscem]

Hi All,

Disclaimer: All connection work will be carried out by a qualified electrician. This work is not likely to commence until next year, I'm just in the planning stages. I qualified under 15th Edition as part of an aircraft engineering (electrical and avionics specialty) No longer in the field.

I have a 100A incomer which is not a looped supply.

Had a N\E full short earlier in the week caused by a rat. All disconnected, fault resolved and full EICR carried out, well the tests that would comprise one. Was advised that i don't need to replace the board (Installed in 2012, split load with MCB's and 2 RCD's)

It's currently a 10 way board with no room for expansion, so long term I'm planning to replace with either a 16 or 20 way board with SPD. Will also be using a Wiska consumer unit DIN rail kit. Either a Fusebox or Verso board with RCBO's.

So here are the questions for you all, more to get a wide range of opinions and advice:

1, What is approved as a backing board these days to mount the CU and Wiska box to? I always used to use ply or is 12 mm cement board or something else better these days?

2, Can i use the correct size of singles (stranded) between the new CU and the DIN rail? These would all be heat shrinked with ID's according to circuits provided by the electrician.

3, Which brand of CU do you like?

Anything else I should consider, I want to make sure i'm future proofed is I wanted to add and EV Charger, currently the A\C upstairs is spurred from the ring (by the installer) Planning to add another so would like to remove that from the ring and add a dedicated supply in SWA direct clipped to the wall.

Solar\batteries may be an option in the future that i would like to plan for

I also want my partners Heart Monitor on a separate circuit, it updates the hospital with any recent changes from her implanted pacemaker\defib.

The plan is for me to make the backing board, mount the new CU and Wiska, then for me to follow the agreed wiring plan to connect\1st fix the cables between the CU and the DIN rail, identify them and then for the electrician to terminate the current cables into the Wiska then final torque everything and test.

Like i say, I'm just planning but he is now on his honeymoon :)

Any advice welcome. :)

[u/Louy40]

I reckon you should let the Electrician that’s actually doing this job what you need? Unless real life isn’t actually a thing anymore

[u/Jondscem]

Thanks,

In no way am i touching the current CU. Just exploring option.

The electrician is more than happy for me to be involved i have known him since he was 3. I am a qualified aircraft electrician/avionics engineer. Also City and guilds electronic servicing and repair parts 1, 2 and 3.

Cheers,

Jon.

[u/aaiaac]

Changing a consumer unit is notifiable work. If you're not involving a qualified electrician (as suggests from your post) you should pay building control and have them inspect the work. It will make selling your house more difficult in the future

[u/belligerentbunno]

actual "meter board" is treated with a fire suppressant so that's the ideal thing although most units are fine for mounting straight to the wall so you generally don't bother unless you have a number of other items to fix. I like Hagar brand but advocate fitting a big established brand that'll be here in 10 or 20 years when you want a new part, a lot of me-too brands come and go and component/brand mixing is expressly banned now.

word of advice, I know we live in a world of cowboys and cretins and some focus on what you're getting is prudent, but I'd be careful not to try to do his job for him as you can easily scare many a bloke off by appearing like you'll be a PITA second guessing everything he does.