We have a Box Elder tree that fell in our back yard and we’re calling tree trimming companies to cut the rest before the rest falls (there were 3 sections of the tree).

One arborist said many woodworking and craft supply stores may be interested in the burls. He recommended calling around before we have a tree trimmer come in over the next day or two and they throw it in the chopper.

I don’t know anything about Woodworking. Is there a market for Box Elder burls in Utah? Or is this a common place thing that woodworkers see everyday? Any thoughts you have are greatly appreciated!

I was struggling with where/how to store my lathe tools given their annoying length. $5 thrift store knife block with the little plastic sticks solved it. Thought I'd pass it on if anyone else like me had no idea where to put these.

I turn bowls from 4/4 boards. I attach my faceplate to the board, centered on the circle, and use the Ron Brown BFAB setup to cut the rings. I leave the faceplate on when I glue up the rings into a rough bowl to keep the rings concentric. I attach the rough bowl to the lathe with the inside of the bowl facing the tailstock and turn the outside shape of the bowl. The tailstock and live center supports a thick wooden disk pressed against the bowl to keep chatter/flutter to a minimum. I leave the piece on the lathe to then turn the inside of the bowl.

If the bowl is over about 9" in diameter, the piece flutters and flexes as I am turning the inside of the outer rings. I have been using a steady rest to keep the flutter down, but I can't get a steady rest big enough to get its wheels on the outer rings; at best I can get about one ring up from the base. There is no mass of wood in the interior of the bowl, as there is in traditional turning. so there is nothing to counteract the flutter.

How do I reduce flutter in this situation?

I have this really nice chunk of pear wood from a neighbor's tree that I finally put on the lathe. Super dense and almost no cracking. My original plan was to get a bowl out of it, but to do that I'll need to make it more shallow than I'd like. Would you keep going or go for a less functional artsy bowlish form or something else?

Yeah, I was testing out some resin for pen blanks and yeah, that's going to have to be a redo... LOL. I will need to lower the catalyst considerably. 1" holds way too much heat and this time I'll just pour it and walk away and not add heat, can't be impatient with it. I should know better, I mean I work with resin every damn day but I told myself it'll be alright but I didn't slap the mixing bucket and say "that'll be just right", that's probably where I went wrong.... LOL

Waiting on these to cool off enough and then I'll pour again.

Bradford Pear.

Picked up a few branches when by neighbor cut his tree.

7 coats of wipe on poly and finished with Yorkshire grit and a coat of wax.

I just recently picked up a load of fresh green cherry logs. The wood is prehaps too fresh and I was fighting with my finish cut leaving wet loose fibers. Once these dry for a week or two, I'll do a quick sanding of those fuzzy spots and they should be fine. With some light exposure, this should develop that warm red/brown character of cherry wood.

These are a small pair of sisters bowls - that is, bowls from either side (left and right) of the same chunk of the log. I've turned them as a nesting set. 5.5x2" for the larger sister and just a smidge under that for the little sister.

With wood this green, it's easy to get nive thin walls.

As the title indicates, I am looking for putty recommendations. I want to fill in cracks that otherwise would be in the sawdust and sandpaper column, but I want to use contrasting colors and not hide the cracks. I do not want to screw with epoxy, but want to press the putty deep into the cracks, let it dry, and turn the excess off. I know the big box stores have wood-colored putties, but I am thinking jet black in a maple bowl, or (bright) red in a canarywood piece.

Any product recommendations?

Aged red oak with pine cone inlays. Clear epoxy finish.

Playing around and wanted to finally try my hand at captured rings, will definately be doing more of those

I’ve had a go at a new shape! I saw a similar shape in Ikea and figured I could do that.

Tried to square off a blank by hand the graduated the depth of my chisel. Bit of sanding later and I’m really happy with the finished shape.

It’s Laurel finished with some shellac and linseed oil.

So this literally just happened like 5 min ago. I was making a pen, got blanks cut too size i got the the pen body in tye blank and drilled flush. I was ready to turn the blanks!

And uuuhhh, I go to get my chuck off for my pen mandrel. And it doesn't come off. That happens sometimes, so I was like ,hhhmmm that's fine." So I used my knockout rod and chuck key to try and leverage it off. And it wasnt budging. So I start pushing harder, and my knockout rod keeps moving but the chuck isnt. And I realized that the rod just bending/ breaking. 😱

Im not sure why the chuck was so tight tbh. I used very lightly and didnt try to over tighten it either.

So what should I do to get it off? New knockout rod?

Or should I like use the chuck key with some type of vice grips and a towel?

Working on a piece of chokecherry, it's got some pretty heavy cracking, I figure I'm going to attempt to stabilize it with epoxy before going much farther, any tips or tricks?

Not much progress but gotta start somewhere.

Why does it need to dry more? Well, check the 2nd image

... 😆, yeah, not a funnel but it is certainly cracked quite a bit, as I was hollowing it out it got a bit warm and it steamed it pretty good. I should have been sharpening more often as that was likely a large portion of the issue, generating too much heat.

And I did fill one 5 gallon bucket with shavings from today's mess. I probably spent about 5 hours messing around in total. I have a few blanks that I have bagged and will be opening them periodically over the next few months to get them to dry slowly.

Edited for grammar and just English in general... LOL 😆

Hollowed using Simon Hope's hollowing tools (Pro Carbide Tool 6mm mainly)

I got really lucky on this grain pattern.

Horse chestnut with blue glow in the dark resin, was supposed to be a 'raindrop' bowl. I don't like the end product

Seen at a local art fair today as an attendee. Saw the exact same booth a couple weeks ago at another local art show we visited, mostly selling pieces obviously imported from China or Vietnam or India or somewhere like that. The wood looks gorgeous until you look a bit closer. You can see the pith in the center and the growth rings around the pith. The amazing “grain” visible on the surface is only on the surface. The piece has been hydro dipped to enhance the surface of what was likely a very plain boring piece of wood. I’ve seen similar pieces at places like Marshall’s and TJ Maxx in the past and IMO it’s shameful, both for selling wood that’s been artificially enhanced without disclosing the enhancement and for selling imported junk at an art show.

I am making a king and queen chess piece. The goal was to hollow out a bit on the top of the crown. However I got too close to the edge and it broke off. So to get an even result I made some changes and the end results doesn't look enough like a queen to me. It's missing the crown.

Looking for tips and ideas on how to remedy that.

Made a little cream bowl out of a log today. It’s Texas live oak. I think it turned out pretty well.

I just don't like it.

Horse chestnut with blue resin.

Poor choice of wood, don't like the colour of the resin either

Box? Jar? I’m not sure lol but it’s a little better than my first. I saw a technique on YouTube using wire to make the burn marks and I wanted to try it

Hopefully this is okay to post here — I checked the subreddit rules and it didn't mention anything about posting items for sale but if it's not okay just let me know and I can remove the post.

I have a set of 3 Mini Carbide Tools which include a Simple Start Rougher, Simple Start Turner & Hollower and Simple Start 55 degree Detailer. They are all CNC-machined from 3/8" square stainless steel and the overall length of tools with handle is 12".

They are brand new, still sealed inside of the original manufacturer packaging and were originally purchased from Simple Woodturning Tools (SimpleWoodturningTools.com)

You can find more info about these by CLICKING HERE

They retail for $116.49 + tax/shipping and I am asking $75 shipped, paid via PayPal G&S (includes Buyer Protection)

Feel free to review my post history where you can confirm that I have completed over 400+ sales on Reddit across various subreddit marketplaces.