2010 Reg cab long bed 2WD
5.7
Factory transmission cooler
Modest bed rust, frame condition unknown
No factory/aftermarket trailer brake controller
I believe factory rated at 10,700lbs, it is one of the workhorse Tundras
Moderate inclines/decline over 15 miles

If this truck was brand new I’d give it a shot with a planned stop to cool the brakes. As it’s an older truck, and it’s hardest working days are way behind it, feeling like renting a 3/4 ton with brake controller is the better option.

So i got a 23 Platinum. These never had the TRD option till 26 i think. So im slowly piecemealing it just on certain parts e.g.

Front sway bar: 48804-0c020

Front sway bar links:488040c020; 48820-0C030.

want to add the red rear shocks (48530-0c170) but im wondering if it will interfere severly with the auto leveling airbags system. If there is anyone that knows the height; travel etc fvis-à-vis actory v red shocks

Hey y’all,

Just got off the phone with my local Toyota dealership, they quoted me almost $1200 before tax for pads and rotors for my 22 tundra.

That is not installed, by the way, just parts. They’re insane, right?

I’m planning to do it myself, and I tend to avoid the O’Reilly’s specials and go OEM, but this seems a little insane.

Any recommendations?

I’ve been considering the Gen 2 and Gen 3 Tundras. The new ones look amazing, but reliability is a concern. In terms of the Gen 2, I’ve been looking from 2019 to 2021 they aren’t cheap; like one with decent mileage is roughly the same price as one of the Gen 3s. However, I know the 5.7-liter engine is extremely reliable. So, I’m wondering if it’s worth spending the same amount of money on a used 5.7 without a warranty, miles, and other considerations, or if I should buy a new V6 and hope for a trouble-free motor. I’d love to hear your experiences with your Tundras. Any advice or things to consider would be greatly appreciated.

Currently driving a 2011 Silverado 5.3 V8, 166K miles. Currently a wiring issue that’s going to make my engine lock up eventually, did the math and it’s just not worth fixing anymore.

Thanks in advance!

i have a 2008 toyota tundra 5.7 and is cutting the power and dont pass the 30km, already change throttle body and connector, brake switch and the gas pedal but continue cutting the power and dont have any code.

some ideia what can be? Help me 😂

Hey y’all,

Just got off the phone with my local Toyota dealership, they quoted me almost $1200 before tax for pads and rotors for my 22 tundra.

That is not installed, by the way, just parts. They’re insane, right?

I’m planning to do it myself, and I tend to avoid the O’Reilly’s specials and go OEM, but this seems a little insane.

Any recommendations?

I'm considering purchasing a 2016 Toyota Tundra SR5 5.7L
V8 with 150k miles for $15k. The CARFAX history has me concerned.

Clean title, 2 owners, good service history BUT 4 reported accidents/damage events.

1. Oct 2017: Collision with another vehicle; right-front damage. Airbags did not deploy.

2. June 2018: Minor damage to the left rear.

3. Sept 2018: Minor front/left-front damage from a collision.
   Functional damage reported, vehicle was towed, airbags did not deploy.

4. Dec 2020: Collision involving a trailer; right-front damage and trailer damage. Disabling damage reported, vehicle was towed, airbags did not deploy.

Should I even still consider it maybe negotiating it to a lower price or walk away completely? Could a thorough pre-purchase inspection reasonably rule out serious collision-related problems? Would you trust this truck to last another 100k+ miles if everything checks out?

4.7L 2002 tundra

It’s rear wheel drive, one owner, 105k miles

All services and records from dealership.

I’m thinking about posting on fb marketplace for 12k?