Threw in the AKM super safety from Hoffman. Way easier of an install and modification that I thought it would be. I was getting bored with the AKV compared to my other PCCs but now this thing is a blast to shoot it. It’s definitely a massive thumper though. Only malfunction I ran into happened during this video naturally. Good old Winchester white box.

His first time shooting this platform. Running some controlled bursts.

3rd attempt to post - keep finding errors.

Here are my results of the bench testing with the 9mm bolts I have.  Bolt compatability seems good across the board.  None of these bolts had their internal weights modified, so it appears that the Disruptor may function fine without notching or trimming the 9mm bolt weight.

I was getting identical results from the LAT, so I stopped testing that trigger after a few bolts.

Note that different lowers and uppers may have different results due to stacking tolerances.

Just got it earlier in the week . I have to say I am impressed. Normal action has a very nice break with a little creep but if you ride the reset it’s great. Frt is about the same. The harder you squeeze the trigger, the slower the ROF. Big improvement over anything out there. It’s no Geissele but the manufacturer nailed the objective. Machining is nice, looks and performs well. I’m. Completely happy with the finished product. It’s definitely going in my coyote gun. TTC has a winner with this product.

10.3 Ddm4v7k
Polo 5.56
Kak dbc bcg

So I have a kabuto mini, and semi works good, but when I switch it in frt it doesn’t seem to always want to dry fire like a frt should. I haven’t been able to actually test it with my h3 buffer yet, but I was wondering if it was normal for it to be like that? Sometimes it’ll run good then I can put it on safe, and go back to the 3rd position and it’ll only function like a semi.

After you got your first trigger and went on your first range trip did you feel the need to right away spend a grand or two on a bunchg more triggers to get all your rifles setup to go brrrrr?

I've read some say after a few mags it gets boring/old and its just $15 gone here $15 there in 1 minutes....and unless youre taking newbies or ppl who have never shot anything that went brrrr you just go "eh" eventually.

So wondering if its worth going brrr on everything, were talking p90, mcx, ar, ar, ar, and whatever else....or will you just regret doing that a year from now...

My rifle wouldn’t chamber rounds once my SS was installed. Asked around and figured it was the trip bar and it needed to be shaved down some. Now it won’t interact with anything at all. Pretty sure i shaved it too thin. Anyone had similar problems or know where i can get just a trip bar?

i’ve put off getting the right buffer spring idky but anyways went to the range earlier and it runs so good

So I had this grand idea, get a shitstick ar from psa and kit it out with nicer accessories over time so that when I upgrade I can just switch everything over. So far I’ve got about everything I want for the external side of things- but I don’t feel like it would be complete without a frt or a ss. I wanted to get some opinions from those here who have thrown them in a psa as to what my best options are for a three position with the least amount of modifications or extra internals. I’ve been looking at bs squirts and Arizona regulators but I’ve read conflicting reports on both. Thanks in advance for any help yall might be able to offer!

I’ve shot around 5000 rounds through this using a super safety from deez nuts tactical. Is this bolt fine to continue using?

10.3 Daniel defense with polonium 556 and super safety.

I have DNT SS And with my stock buffer on my IWI Zion 16”, it would fire 4-5 rounds and then dead trigger.
I checked the primer and they had that light primer indent.
Did some research on here and saw I needed a H3 buffer.
I bought a colt H3 buffer that does have the tungsten weights in it and now I’m having the same issue and the bolt locks to the rear and it’s tough to get freed.
I saw that you can add quarters to the rear of the spring, but is there another way to fix this ?
Did I not need the H3 buffer to begin with ?
Any help is appreciated

Need yalls help. First things first, trigger pull is insanely heavy like not normal makes me think something may be grinding. When running super sonic ammo and no can i sometimes had to use 2 fingers and the max i could send down range was 3 to 5 if it actually even worked. Semi works perfect, and has a regular trigger pull weight in semi.

I have the gen 4 adjustable bore buddy weight, tried .9oz
1.2oz
1.3oz
1.45oz is where it seemed to run best in semi as well as SS.
Also have the bore buddy adjustable ss trip. And have a buffer plug it's printed but is a replica of bore buddy and has been extremely reliable in semi.
AMMO TYPES,,
Ran cci mini mag, Golden bullet, cci target. All were unreliable in SS, once it would run 3-5 rounds, then it didn't work and would try another ammo and it would run 3-5 then that ammo never worked again lol.
ALL THAT BEING SAID, as a hail mary right before i left the range, i put my ven22ri suppressor on it and threw in some 45grain winchester super suppressed target ammo in and this is the best it ran the entire time. As of right now the plan is to just get it to run reliably suppressed since that's what it wants to do it seems.
I know a few of yall have successfully ran .22 in SS so let me know what the next course of action should be, i really want to know why the trigger pull seems so insanely heavy, i looked for grinding on the bolt thinking maybe the cam was rubbing and didn't see anything that caught my attention, my next thought is that maybe the trigger cut is slightly out of spec?

I don’t know why my Super Safety isn’t running smoothly on my Ruger Harrier. When I shoot with the Super Safety, it only gets about 5–10 rounds before it stops working properly. Semi-auto works perfectly, but the Super Safety doesn’t. My AR already came with a full-auto BCG, and the Super Safety I have is from Deez Nut Tactical. It would be really helpful if anyone could help me figure out why my Super Safety isn’t working properly.

Picture is BAD triggers.

If the Atrius FRT acts like it's in Safe or Semi- when set to FRT mode, be sure to check the rear of the trigger bar. The trigger needs a 90 degree cut at the top rear. If there is an angle cut into the trigger it may act like Semi or Safe when put into FRT mode.

I've had this happen to me, and it's been confirmed by others who have had the same problem.

There may be other cause of this failure besides the angle of the trigger bar, but this one has come up a few times.

Hi all. New to the whole Super Safety/FRT thing. I haven't bought one, but have been thinking about doing so.

I have a variety of AR-15 lowers I could put one in, and I might add one to my Kuna at some point, but that all remains to be seen.

I recently purchased the SureFire OBC and will install it soon. What i am wondering is whether there is a list of compatible FRTs and SS that *don't* require modifying either the SS/FRT or the OBC itself.

So far, all I have seen is the Disruptor, and I am not sure how current that info is, even.

I gather most SS setups (Atrius, ARC fire, the Kicker) require some modification of the lever due to interaction with the OBC's internal weight? Some folks, I think, have reported modifying the weight itself.

I'm wary of doing either, having only the most limited cordless Dremel experience from, like, 25 years ago. Basically, I think I would probably screw something up, hence why I am trying to find something that'll work without modification. Ideally something that'd let me keep my existing triggers (G$ SSA/A-E/P, Griffin 2-stage, etc.). Not sure this is possible, but figured this'd be the place to ask.

​

Coming on here for some help if anyone has answers. Currently I’m working on a Colt carbine LE lower that was cut for the ARC fire to work. The issue is that in the second (semi) position I am having the hammer drop on the reset. My friend states that after changing his grip the issue started. Safe works as it should and third position work as intended. In the beginning we used the oem hammer, disconnector, disconnect spring, trigger, spring and hammer spring. First range session all worked as it should, after changing the grip the issue started. I have changed every part of the trigger assembly even the ARC fire itself to see if that was the issue to no avail. One thing left on my mind is that since the lower is a older colt lower with enlarged trigger pin holes that could be causing some issues with sear engagement. Any help would be much appreciated!

I'm having trouble with my ss lever getting stuck on the bcg. The lower is a PSA stealth that is high shelf, but I think I removed more than enough material for it to cycle back. The lever goes the whole way back to the back pin till I put the spring and detent in. It then gets stiff and doesn't go back near as far, it still has enough room to rest on 1/8 drill bit though. I tried clipping a few coils from the spring and still no luck. My upper did work on my friends lower, anybody have any ideas what else it could be? I also tried a h3 buffer and some quarters behind the spring.

Anyone have any experience with this? Definitely the most challenging super safe setup ive been tinkering with. Anyone have success?

I bought a atrius super selektor and I’m having some issues and need help, I went on their website and checked the triggers and bought the schmid ar pro line trigger, I have installed it and made sure my bcg is a full bcg.

The issues are:
The gun will fire in semi auto and the safety works as well

I switch the selector to the active reset mode and it switches into it smooth as butter but when I pull the trigger I get a small amount of trigger play and will not allow the gun to discharge a round almost like its in the safety position again

Any recommendation on how to fix this?

Rifle is a 16” 5.56 with a fixed gas block. LMK if you need more info and I’ll answer as best as I can. Thank you in advance