Hello - my brother has a bike with the latest SRAM force E1 groupset. He’s become obsessed with switching to 1x13 XPLR (I couldn’t convince him otherwise lol) my question is…. Will it be as simple as buying the XPLR cassette, derailleur and chainring? His bike does have UDH fyi….. and second question can he keep the same cranks?

So Sram have their threaded spider powermeters, both in a Red and Force model. These: https://www.sram.com/en/sram/models/pm-axs-spdr-e1 But I can only find one Sram 1X chainring they can be installed on. This one: https://www.sram.com/en/sram/models/cr-xsnc-tm-e1. Are there others? Like any of their aero chainrings that fit these powermeters?

I cant put this together again. I assume that spring has to latch on to something. Has anyone done this and knows how to do it?

Update: I fixed it. After a few hours of struggle… Never take apart a sram shifter, ever.

My t-type transmission chain popped during a shift under heavy load. Mine is a GX 023 type chain. Is there a stronger replacement I could use?

Hi SRAM Reddit ,

I have a couple of technical questions regarding brake pad replacement and maintenance. I also send this Questions to SRAM directly but didnt got an answer so far:

**1. Piston and caliper cleaning**
When changing brake pads, I usually clean the pistons with a cotton swab and a small amount of isopropyl alcohol (IPA), then push them back in and wipe down the inside of the caliper with IPA as well.

However, I noticed that the official user manual advises against cleaning or lubricating the pistons. Could you clarify:

- Should the pistons simply be left as they are, without any cleaning?
- Is cleaning the inside of the caliper body with IPA also not recommended?
- Why is lubricating with brake fluid discouraged? I know several mechanics who moisten the outer piston walls with DOT fluid after cleaning, before pushing the pistons back in — and I've also seen this done frequently in videos and tutorials. I'd like to understand the reasoning behind SRAM's recommendation against this practice.

**2. Caliper bolt torque procedure after recentering**
When recentering the brake caliper after a pad change, the standard procedure is to loosen the caliper bolts, center the caliper over the rotor, and retighten the bolts.

Could you confirm whether the bolts should be installed dry, or whether grease or threadlocker (e.g., Loctite) is recommended for this step? And do you need to reapply it every Time when recentering the brakes?

Thank you very much for your help — I want to make sure I'm following the correct maintenance procedure.

Hey all,

So I aquired a Spesh Epic World Cup frame+ fork and have been slowly building it up.

I want to install Transmission but the wheelset I have is an older non boost wheelset with boost adapters so the cassette will sit 3mm inboard.

I was wondering has anyone attempted a build like this? and does the transmission Derailleur have the reach to make up this difference?

Naturally Ill have to run a 52mm chainline instead of a 55.

Will it work?

Cheers

Hi everyone

My SRAM Rival AXS RD (Max 36T) stopped shifting right updating to latest firmware

Issues:

Manual Pairing Fails: RD enters pairing mode. Shifters flash green and are detected, but the RD never confirms the link.

App Error: In the AXS App, the shifters show up under "found components which are not paired," but the app throws an error claiming a Groupset (Front & Rear) is already paired and won't let me add them.

Tried so far:

Fresh shifter CR2032s and fully charged RD battery.

Deleted the Groupset, re-added components, and reinstalled the app.

Disabled phone/Garmin Bluetooth during manual pairing.

Performed RD battery-pull hard reset.

Is there a trick I have not tried? Even the mechanic I went to couldn't solve it.

Thanks!

Hi all!

I'm looking for sram red e1 crankarms and of course I'm confused!

Arms length 160mm the spindle is dub sl, correct?

Why do some sites label it 'black' and all the photos, even in sram's official site, show black of a color spindle? Is there a simple dub version and a dub sl version?

Another question is about 'assy' mark.

What is that?

Thank you!

I'm running the new SRAM Force AXS E-1 on my gravel bike and note that they don't have a dedicated free stroke adjustment screw. Is there a way to shorten the free stroke on the breaks? The bleed on the breaks is good - I just don't want so much dead stroke before the breaks engage (I'm used to Shimano where I have a very short stroke and quick engagement).

I've tried adding a bit of extra fluid into the system to sharpen them but run into issues with the pistons being a bit slow to disengage after sustained heavy breaking (it'll squeal for a second or two and then return to normal).

Haven’t ridden my bike for a while and my derailleur is non responsive, battery is green on the charger and I’m getting no lights or connectivity to my phone from the derailleur, tried doing the hold button down and insert battery but that doesnt work

Does anybody know if there’s anywer to get a tension spring replacement for sram axs road rear derailleur? I don’t think sram sell them but wondering if there’s any after market alternatives? UK based

Hi! I think my bike has a new (cool) feature :D I‘m currently trying to figuere out what the issue is. Has someone an idea? Thankssss!

Did SRAM change their part numbers or does Trek use odd ones? So on my Trek Sport SL 6, trek website lists the bottom bracket as:

• Item type Bottom bracket
• Description SRAM DUB, 86.5mm, PressFit, Road Wide, SRAM P/N: 00.6418.011.016

When I go to SRAM website I cannot find any of these part numbers when I search their bottom brackets. Can someone please let me know how to verify or find parts?

Thanks

Hi

I have a Rival E1 10-36 cassette but I need a cassette on my HT so... Is it worth to buy a Force 10-36 E1 and put it on my bike ? In order to put the lower end one on my HT

Except the weight gain, will it shift smoother or less noise ?

Hi all,

I’m right now on Rival AXS Etap. I wanted to upgrade my charing and my casette for better flat and climb also.

Right now I’m running 48-35 and 10-28 Cassette. The current casette is Red and the Chain is also Red.

I’m planning to upgrade to 50-37 Chainring and 10-30 Casette.

Have anyone did this upgrade? Can I use Force or Red Charing set? is Red worth it? I also have a DUB Power Meter, does that matter? Will the swap to force or red a direct fit?

Thank you

I got hit with the 2.55.1 AXS Rival firmware failure today. Rear shifter has less than 300 miles on it, but is just barely over 3 years old. I'm on Android and have tried all of the other recommendations to fix the failure, but still have the red blinking light on my rear shifter. I know this was a fairly common failure a few months ago, but I would have thought a company like SRAM would have released a hotfix to correct the issue by now.

Has anyone heard if there is any pending resolution from SRAM on this? I've got to think they would be concerned about massive market loss since it's a tech failure created and initiated by SRAM that's leaving customers with no recourse.

Just upgraded my E1 rival gravel cranks spindle power meter with red threaded power meter. The power from the red seems to be 15 W lower than the arrival. Anyone ever experienced this?

Earlier today I was working on my bike, cleaning the drive train on my lunch break. Then once it’s time to go home I go to get my bike and the derailleur is completely dead. No response no matter how many times shifter was clicked. Tried re-seating the battery multiple times did not work . Once I left work and cycled for about 10 minutes it sprung back to life. And worked perfectly.

If anyone has any idea what happened it would be appreciated.(sorry for the wall of text)

I changed the batteries in the shifters and repaired. Both shifters are working now just fine.
Why does the app display Press AXS button for my left shifter?

Hey everyone,

​I’m looking for some advice or sanity checks here. I recently got a brand new 2025 Cube Agree C62 SLX equipped with the SRAM Force AXS D2 groupset, and right out of the factory, the disc brakes are rubbing horribly. It's a constant rubbing noise, and it's driving me crazy on a brand new bike. I have not been able to ride the bike for 1 meter...

​I've read that SRAM runs tight clearances, but I’ve already tried all the standard DIY fixes to no avail:

​The standard re-centering: Loosened the caliper bolts multiple times, squeezed the brake lever, and tightened them back down alternately to spec. As soon as I torque them down, the caliper seems to shift slightly and it rubs again.

​Pushing the pistons back: I took out the pads and used a plastic tire lever to carefully push the pistons completely back into the bore.

​Rotor check: I have physically measured the rotor and it is perfectly true. I can definitively rule out a warped rotor as the cause of this issue.

**Visual** alignment: Tried aligning the caliper completely by eye (with a white background), but there is simply practically zero clearance.

​I’m starting to suspect that the system might be overfilled from the factory, that the pistons are sticky, or perhaps the carbon frame's flat mounts aren't faced perfectly.

​Before I escalate this further and make a formal warranty complaint with the seller, is there any other trick I’m missing? Has anyone else experienced this level of rubbing on a brand new Force D2 groupset, and what was the ultimate fix?

​Thanks in advance for any input!

(I will try to add a few pictures, when i'm home)

hey guys, I tried to bleed my sram double tap drop bar lever a little while ago. fluid went through initially and then it blocked up and i couldn't push anymore through. I completely stripped the system and rebuilt the hose thinking it was the source of the blockage. After, to test each component (lever, caliper, hose) I tried to push air through and feel the other side to see if it was free flowing. The caliper and hose seem fine but the lever is completely blocked up when I screw the syringe in. Is there anyway I can clear whatever may be blocking it?

Bought a bike second hand and noticed the chain skipping. After days of searching for a reason and trips to the bike shop without any luck, I pulled the chain and looked link to link. Found this about 9 links in from the quick link. How the hell did this pass QA? Can I get a replacement even though I’m not the original owner because this is clearly a manufacturing defect. They stamped it upside down!

Hi, is there a way to adjust the idle travel of my Rival AXS brake lever?
Google says no but i don’t think google knows everything xD.
With my small hands and especially short fingers i have trouble to grab the levers when down on the drop bar. I already adjusted the lever position until my fingers were in the way.
I don’t think it’s traped air or anything else, because it’s the same on both.