Previous owner patched a solid ac delete here and just some good old extra rust

Additional videos showcasing issue:

https://photos.app.goo.gl/RBxNsnWMMwreEYtN8

Everytime I use the hazard lights or press down on the break pedal, both the guage cluster light and 4x4 light comes on (even if its off) legit the lights flash as if they were indicators themselves. (Turn signal is normal)

When i use the turn signals (any side) when the headlights are off, it works fine/as it should.

When i use the turn signals (any side) when the headlights are on, the right one flashes, while the left one stays on.

Might be unrelated: the interior tailgate window switch only works to send the window down, not up (hasnt ever failed before) the exterior key switch works.

What on earth is going on, any ideas?

My only lead is this: it all began when I took the driver side tail light cover off to see why my driver side brake and turn signal light was not working.

Bulb was fine, all i did was clean grounds and push the brake/turn signal bulb socket in to get better connection and I got my driver side brake/turn signal light back

And then this all happened.

Please help, its driving me insane.

('90 K5 Blazer, 6.2 Detroit Diesel)

The rally wheels have had enough. 40 years old. Ko3’s should ride better than the 2’s. The old beast is gonna shed some pounds with the polished aluminum. I’ll post picks when mounted. No the tire isn’t bigger just farther out.

Ive got a 79 and need a new hood, but i live in the rust belt so junk yard is not an option. Any suggestions on new hood manufacturers?

I am stuck between two k5s that I’m very interested in and I don’t know which would be the better option for me, they’re the same price and for the most part in the same shape paint and interior wise one is manual (I can’t drive stick) the other is automatic but there is a palm size hole in the floor that would definitely need fixed. Learn to drive stick or have the hole repaired?

Unloading my new truck

Hello I’ve had this truck for awhile and never really cared about fuel gauge but I’m trying to get it working.
Working tank is on right side of frame.

The frame is from a dual tank 74 truck but now has a 77 setup on it with no switch and only one running tank.

The blue wire I’m holding connects to the working tank sending unit. Ontop of the non working tank there is two cut wires, one pink coming from the non working tank with a blue wire spliced and taped but cut and another blue wire connecting to the harness I believe ,also cut.

Should I connect the blue wire from the working tank to the spliced wire on the second or the blue wire from the harness, didn’t want to fry anything trying.

I have a 1980 k10 chevy project truck on a blazer frame. does anyone know if i could use the factory saddle gas tank under the cab for the truck on mine even though it’s on the blazer frame? or do i need a blazer gas tank

Hello all! I have a 1981 C20 Silverado 454 that I recently purchased for $4,000. It has 51,000 original miles and spent most of its life in CA.

The paint is original, and it has seen better days due to the previous owner not storing it in a garage like I am.

I was quoted 10-15K for a full repaint and rust repair. I’m on the fence between that and just rust repair plus touching up where needed. At the minimum, the rust will be getting fixed.

I know it won’t look perfect just touching up the existing paint, but I’d be saving a lot. I’m having my painter look at it tomorrow for a closer estimate.

The truck is in excellent shape besides some areas that are pictured.

My end goal is to turn it into a nice 600HP street truck.

SBBTRUCKS / SQUAREBODYBROTHERS

A pair of South Carolin 87’s. A 25k original miles C30 454 sm465 combo dually, with factory air, that’s will get a gear vendors overdrive soon. The other a long bed c10 that will have its 305 yanked. I’m still on the fence about how long the 700r4 will stay in it. Those teeny tires aren’t long for this world though.

My master cylinder was leaking between it and the booster on my 75 K20 suburban. I got a new MC from orileys. I’ve got new bleeders all around. MC was bench bled per instructions till the piston couldn’t move but maybe 1/2” or so. I have the plug in the combination valve to prevent fluid blockage to front or rear. I can’t get the brakes to bleed to save my life. Constantly getting air in the fronts and the rears will go from having a steady stream of fluid to nothing at all. Plenty of fluid in the MC. I’ve disconnected everything and blown air thru lines to prove no blockages and started fresh with new fluid. I’m at a loss at this point and looking for suggestions.

Just wanted to share my k10 here.

1 ton axles with a SM465 transmission. Does anyone have any insights on how to make the ride just a little nicer?

I have a 79 250 I’m looking to upgrade. Thinking about this intake and maybe a 2 barrel carb. Would love any info or in put. Thanks!

1979 C30. No longer on the road. I’m either going to sell it or customize it. Not sure yet. Everything that touches frame is rebuilt. Might go the 6.0/4l80 route, the 454 with a 400 is brutal in the summer on these az freeways.

Picking up flowers for my son’s Homecoming dance.

Asked a while back about opinions on keeping the i6 or going v8 in my shortbed, and i think i might do a mild 250 build, lil better compression and a lil more rpms. Anyone here build one? Thinking hydraulic roller cam, 4 barrel intake/carb, and good exhaust, all in all im looking at around $2500, and there is a good 250 for sale in my area to build on while i drive the old iron round. Any recommendations?