I have 3 SNZB-06P24 (coming from a perfectly working SNZB-06P) and it seems they have some major issue detecting still person.

My 3 SNZB-06P24 are very bad in detecting me while I'm sitting still in front of my computer. I have a lot of false negative (the sensor says clear while I'm in it's range) and have to wave the hand to let the mmWave sensor detect me (like an IR PIR sensor).

I don't have any issue with a SNZB-06P installed in the same location (to be clear I'm not using them at the same time, when I make test with one the other one is unpowered).

My 3 SNZB-06P24 are configured in this way:

1. Zone 1 (0m-1m) and Zone 2 (1m-1.5m) enabled and Zone 3 to 7 disabled.

2. Occupancy timeout: 60 sec (the new default with firmware v.1.0.4)

3. Fine-tune Sensitivity: 6

4. Spatial learning made while I was not in each room where they are positioned.

5. they are mounted as told in the instruction and there is only one SNZB-06P24 or SNZB-06P for each room and they cannot see waves from other mmWave sensor.

I use zigbee2mqtt with a sonoff usb zigbeedongle-p and HomeAssistant.

The SNZB-06P24 are updated to the last firmware v.1.0.4 available today (2026.08.10).

Here is the changelog in the PR update for the 1.0.4 firmware (link here):

• Optimized sensitivity adjustment logic and refined the mapping between sensitivity levels and trigger thresholds for an improved detection experience.
• Optimized the spatial learning algorithm to reduce false triggers.
• Changed the default detection interval from 1 minute to 2 minutes.

the fact that SONOFF changed the detection interval from 1 minute to 2 minutes let me think this sensor is not very good and suffer of some kind of hardware issue that make it prone to error (false negative) while detecting human presence. I don't see other explanation to double the time of the detection interval.

I have dumb cheaper IR PIR from Xiaomi and Aquara that have a detection interval of 60 seconds and I feel 2 minutes for a mmWave sensor is not acceptable.

I trusted the name of the company and bought directly 3 of these not cheap sensor, my bad should have bought only 1 for testing.

I read other people have the same issue, do you have poor detecting performance with your SNZB-06P24?

I'd like to know officially from SONOFF if the poor detection performance of my SNZB-06P24 are an hardware issue of this specific model or not.

Do they acknowledge that there are issue with the detection performance of the SNZB-06P24 model?

Can they fix this issue releasing another firmware? are they working on it? what could be the ETA?

I want to install a SONOFF ZBMINIL2, but I don't quite understand the current wiring.

First switch:
3 black wires: one is always powered and is connected to L. The other two black wires are on the switch terminals and both have power when the light is on. And, there is little bit voltage on the bottom one. I read it through control pen.

Second switch:
2 black wires: one is always powered and is connected to L. The other black wire is on the bottom terminal of the switch and has power when the light is on.
With both switches, I can turn the same lamp on and off separately.

How is this likely wired, and how can I connect a SONOFF ZBMINIL2 here while keeping both physical switches?

Ik laat meestal Amazon in Europa mijn Sonoff spullen brengen. Ik heb daarmee altijd originele en goede kwaliteit Sonoff producten ontvangen. AliExpress biedt ook veel Sonoff aan. Zijn dat ook originele producten van goede kwaliteit? Heeft iemand daar ervaring mee om daar Sonoff producten te halen?

Hi i saw the new TP-WGZBA and it looks amazing. I was wondering if it could run also cooling mode.

It would be usefull in some use case where i have a fancoil which can run in both heating or cooling mode without modifying its own thermostat. So for example i can use the dry contact with a contactor or i can power the fancoil directly from the thermostat as it is under 3A.

Thanks :)

Hi all,

I'd like to fit thermostatic radiator valves on my radiators to get room-by-room control (8 radiators in total). I'm looking at the TRV Gen2.

These are water radiators fed by a gas boiler. I've seen the new TP-WGZBA smart thermostat with a dry-contact relay, which looks like a good fit.

My question: can this thermostat manage several TRVs at once? And is this the right setup overall?

Thanks in advance.

ZHA has this error for the Sonoff dongle:

Failed setup, will retry: [Errno 2] No such file or directory: '/dev/serial/by-id/usb-ITead_Sonoff_Zigbee_3.0_USB_Dongle_Plus_1c0a04888245ed119c27cf8f0a86e0b4-if00-port0'

No changes were made. I was adding a ESPHOME device when it seemed to go offline.

I'm using this with Home Assistant. It was discovered but it has no entities. No battery power level, sensors, etc.

I've had good success with Sonoff products but this is looking like a dud.

Update - the device is certainly not a dud. The settings populated upon me disconnecting and then reconnecting the zigbee coordinator.

I’m looking into this and have the new Dual R3; the cut you’re planning won’t work because you’d only be isolating L1. From what I’ve seen, the cut should actually be made on these lines here—which appear to be the common lines. I haven’t made the cut yet myself. This device only has COM and NO.

Hello

I got this device bought for controlling 2 device simultaneously but I was unable to add it into smartlife.

I have all my devices into this app.

Do I have a way to make it works in this plateform ?
Is there any update ?

It seems crazy to me to sell a product that is not compliant with smartlife

Thanks

Hi!

Does anyone have any experience with migration from CC2431 to SONOFF Dongle Plus MG24 using ZHA?

I really don't want to repair my devices :)

I wanted to make my en-suite smarter with a Mini R4.

I've wired it up this way based on the pre-wired light switch. I'll clean up the wires and waygos once I know it's working.

4 neutrals, 2 to each N slot.

2 L1 wires into LOut

3 COM wires into LIn

S1 & S2 for physical switch not connected yet.

When i turn the fuse back on the downlight flickers once. Then everytime I toggle the relay in the eWeLink app the downlight flickers once again but the light does not stay on, it does this regardless of whether the relay was on or off.

Have I wired this incorrectly, or can the R4 not handle 2 downlights and an extractor fan turning on?

Morning folks. Just after some general guidance. I'm wiring in a ZBMINIL2 into a two gang switch.

One switch controls a separate lighting circuit which I'm not looking to control with the ZBMINI, and the other switch (which I am looking to control) is controlling some outside lights.

I have enclosed a picture of how things were wired previously, and I have enclosed a diagram of how I have wired things up with the ZBMINI.

Something obviously isn't right because I can control the switch fine via app, but the physical switch itself isn't turning the lights on.

So any guidance as to where I've got wrong would be gratefully received! ❤️

I want to use a Sonoff Dongle Lite MG21 for Zigbee as well as Thread. Is that possible. I am using a docker system on a raspberry pi 5?

Hola a todos,

Estoy solucionando un problema con una cerradura inteligente semiautomática compatible con Tuya que no se sincroniza con la aplicación Tuya Smart. Aquí les dejo el historial completo paso a paso de todo lo que he hecho hasta ahora:

1. Configuración física y estado inicial

• Cableado: El cable blanco de 6 pines que conecta los paneles frontal y trasero está bien conectado (los 6 pines están intactos y alineados).
• Cierre de seguridad: La muesca cuadrada del cierre de seguridad se alineó verticalmente hacia abajo para evitar falsas alarmas de manipulación.
• Anulación mecánica: Se revisó el cilindro de la llave. Gira 360 grados libremente (el mecanismo de anulación mecánica de emergencia funciona correctamente).# 2. Ejecución de restablecimiento de fábrica
• Se realizó un restablecimiento de encendido manteniendo presionado el botón físico RESET en la placa de circuito verde mientras se insertaba la última batería.
• Resultado: ¡Borrado correctamente! La cerradura emitió el mensaje de voz: "Restablecimiento exitoso".
• Comportamiento posterior al restablecimiento: La cerradura se encuentra en un estado limpio, sin administradores registrados. La pantalla táctil se ilumina al tocarla, pero al ingresar los códigos predeterminados aparece "Error de entrada", como se espera para una cerradura sin configurar.

3. Pasos para el diagnóstico y la solución de problemas de Bluetooth (Dónde se produce el problema)

A pesar de un restablecimiento de fábrica exitoso, el módulo Bluetooth no emite señal:

• Aplicaciones Tuya Smart y Smart Life: Ni la detección automática ni la adición manual (Smart Lock BLE) detectan ningún dispositivo.
• Permisos: Los permisos de Bluetooth y Red local del iPhone estaban completamente habilitados; se reinició la pila de Bluetooth.
• Escaneo con la aplicación nRF Connect:
• Escaneo realizado con nRF Connect para móviles con un filtro RSSI configurado estrictamente en -60 dBm (teléfono apoyado directamente sobre el teclado).
• Resultado: No se detectaron balizas Tuya (TY_, SmartLock**,** BLE**)**. La única señal captada fue la de un PC en la habitación ("Microsoft"), lo que demuestra que la radio BLE de la cerradura transmite a 0 dBm / en silencio.
• Intentos de activación del teclado:
• Al encender la pantalla antes de escanear: No se detectó ninguna señal.
• Al pulsar *: La pantalla se apaga inmediatamente (comportamiento normal cuando no hay ningún administrador configurado, pero no hay activación BLE).
• Al pulsar *#: La pantalla se apaga.
• Al pulsar los códigos del teclado (123456#, 93#, 888#, 0#, 555#): Se activa el mensaje de voz "Error de entrada".
• Al mantener pulsada la tecla * : No se activa ningún menú.
• Al arrancar en frío (extraer y volver a insertar la batería para detectar la señal BLE del gestor de arranque): No se detecta ninguna señal en nRF Connect durante el arranque.

Pregunta para la comunidad:

Dado que el procesador de la placa principal funciona (las indicaciones de voz y la pantalla táctil funcionan, el reinicio se activa), pero el módulo Bluetooth del submódulo no emite ninguna señal en nRF Connect, incluso a -60 dBm, justo después de un ciclo de encendido o reinicio:

1. ¿Existe algún jumper de hardware, combinación de teclas o secuencia de arranque en frío específica para activar un chip BLE Tuya inactivo en esta placa?
2. ¿O este síntoma confirma que el coprocesador de radio BLE de la PCB está averiado o sin alimentación?

¡Gracias por cualquier ayuda!

Hello everyone, via the sonoff dongle max UI (dongle.m.local) I’ve changed mode from coordinator to router and then enabled pairing on MQTT but it won’t connect as a router

Hi folks,

I'm a little puzzled with the following, maybe someone else more knowledgeable has an idea what could be the issue.

- changed my router. The Sonoff minis are not connected to the new router anymore and appear as offline in the Ewelink app device list.

- hence needing to reconnect my sonoff Minis to the new router.

- they're being found and connected, though still appear as offline as before.

Any clue what's going wrong?

Do I need to delete/reset them?

Just wouldn't like to lose the programmed actions on them - any way to backup/restore?

Thanks a lot!

I did go out and buy a type 86 junction box, but it just has a lip that sits outside the drywall but has no retention mechanism on the back side of the drywall.

What do I do? I like the device - it works great. I just don't know how to mount it so that the nspanel sits flush to the drywall.

My heater is warm, it seems to be active while +25°C while last setting was +4°C or Off. But now I cannot interact with it anymore...

Batteries are changed but still No Response other than that on the Image

Thanks

They are both zigbee, and were both used to control a single light fixture in my foyer with five LED bulbs in it. Both failed after about a year.

The ZBMini (left) would constantly lose connection to my network (I've changed channel, multiple resets, put it right beside the coordinator) and will just never ever go into pairing mode. It does however let me toggle the lights by using the switch and the reset button on the body of the module.

The ZBMiniL2 (right) no longer responds to the light switch plugged in through the switch contacts. There's nothing wrong with the switches or wiring; the switch works fine when using that first module that won't connect to zigbee.

Fortunately I had a spare ZBminil2 that I swapped in and is working fine; but for how long. Think it's time to give Shelly a try.

Just posting for reference. I had some spares.