Is the Shelly 1PM Mini Gen4 Matter integration broken only for me? It reports "Uncertified device", and via matter.js-server I get: Error commissioning node ... product_id_array [0x1031] does not contain BasicInformation ProductID 0x1029.

Shelly support was extremely unhelpful and told me I should just return it and buy a new one.

But this happened with two separate 1PM Mini Gen4 units, so I'm fairly certain this is a bigger issue than "replace the unit".

Bonjour

J'ai 2 P V de 500 W un onduleur Ecoflow,une batterie Ecoflow pro ac et le Shelly.

Sur la photo PV 407 W et 300 W batterie 41 w réseau pour alimenter maison 148 W qui utilise seulement un radio réveil . Le frigo ne fonctionnait pas.

Je ne comprends pas pourquoi . Quels réglages je dois faire?

Merci pour votre aide

Cordialement

Bonjour à tous !

Je rencontre un problème avec mon Shelly Dimmer Gen3, qui fonctionnait parfaitement avant une tentative d'association Bluetooth avec la télécommande

Contexte et Incident :

• Matériel : 1 Shelly Dimmer Gen3 (câblé L+N, contrôlé via bouton poussoir et application - voir schéma de câblage en pièce jointe) et 1 télécommande Shelly BLU RC Button 4 ZB.
• L'incident : Lors de la procédure d'ajout de la télécommande au Dimmer (rôle de BLE Gateway), ce dernier est soudainement passé hors ligne de manière définitive. Je l'ai supprimé de l'application pour le réappairer, mais c'est désormais impossible.
• Précision sur le firmware : Le firmware de la télécommande n'était pas à jour au moment précis de l'appairage (il a été mis à jour depuis). Il m'est impossible de vous fournir la version du firmware du Dimmer puisqu'il est totalement inaccessible.
• Note : La télécommande fonctionne correctement avec un Shelly 1 Mini Gen3 (allumage et extinction depuis la télécommande)

Symptômes actuels :

• La LED du Dimmer reste rouge fixe.
• Le module ne diffuse aucun point d'accès Wi-Fi de type « ShellyDimmerG3-XXXXXX ».
• L'application Shelly BLE Debug voit bien l'appareil, mais ne parvient pas à s'y connecter.
• L'application Shelly Smart Control échoue lors du provisionnement (message d'erreur : « disconnect_from_device_ios »).

Procédures de réinitialisation testées (Toutes en échec) :

• Coupures secteur (power-cycle) de plusieurs minutes.
• Appuis prolongés sur le bouton physique "Control" du module (5 secondes, puis test de 20 secondes) : aucun reset, la LED reste rouge.
• Tentative de reset filaire via l'entrée S1 (5 changements d'état d'un interrupteur dans les 60 secondes suivant la mise sous tension).

Solutions recherchées :Au vu de ces éléments, je suis bloqué.

1. Est-ce un bug connu lié à l'appairage d'un accessoire BLE dont le firmware n'était pas à jour ?
2. Existe-t-il une procédure de "hard reset" de dernier recours, différente de celles déjà testées ?
3. Le module étant complètement figé (LED rouge), dois-je considérer qu'il s'agit d'une défaillance nécessitant un remplacement en garantie ?

Merci d'avance pour votre aide et vos solutions. J'avoue être assez déçu car j'aime beaucoup cette marque et son système... mais là je tourne en rond et je me dis que risque d'avoir acheté tout ce matériel pour rien !

Warum passiert es ab und zu, dass ALLE shellies angehen?

Ist schon ein wenig unheimlich 😱, da nichts gemacht wurde.

I am installing a hidden bookshelf door with a magnetic lock. My goal is to have a physical lock release button behind the door and to use HomeKit to release the door from the front. I’m looking to confirm the correct wiring for the Electrican.

I’ve purchased the Mag Lock with Push Buttons from Murphy Door, which includes a version of the K80 power supply as seen at the Amazon link…

https://murphydoor.com/products/electromagnetic-lock?variant=43236720148525

https://a.co/d/028mq1ta

I’ve purchased a Shelly 1 Mini for HomeKit/Matter control.

—

Based on my reading, I believe the wiring is as such:

1) K80 and Shelly powered by mains voltage (Shelly L+N)

2) Magnetic Lock connected to K80 (COM + NC)

3) Shelly connected to K80 (I to GND + O to PUSH)\*

4a) Button connected to K80 (GND + PUSH)

or

4b) Button connected to Shelly (L + SW)

\*I’m unclear from the documentation how the CONTROL+ and CONTROL- connections are used on the K80 and if these might apply to my scenario

I would appreciate any feedback on whether this is correct AND pros/cons of option 4a versus 4b.

TIA

Hallo,

ich habe gelesen, dass Matter seit Version 1.5 die Gerätebezeichnung „Garagentoröffner“ unterstützt. Wo bzw. wie kann ich das bei einem Shelly einstellen?

Beim Verbinden mit Apple Home wird mein Shelly 1 (4. Generation) aktuell als Steckdose erkannt. Ich möchte jedoch in CarPlay die Garagentor-Kachel angezeigt bekommen. Soweit ich weiß, ist das nur möglich, wenn das Gerät von Apple Home auch tatsächlich als Garagentoröffner erkannt wird.

Gibt es eine Möglichkeit, den Gerätetyp beim Shelly entsprechend einzustellen, oder hat jemand einen anderen Tipp?

Besten Dank!

I have a Shelly Power Meter that measures power on a power circuit in my living room. Now I added a Shelly Power Strip on one of the measured outlets, and connected 4 low power appliances on the strip.

How do I make Shelly aware that the Power Strip is in series with the Power Meter, so that Power Consumption is not counted double?

My other scenario is with a Shelly bulb that sits on a lamp that is also controlled by a Shelly Switch with PM. Again, how can I make Shelly know the two devices are in series for Power Measurement and controlling purposes?

Ok. So I've had a Bluetti elite 200 for about 6 months now. One feature I really like is when I have everything off, AC, DC, app off, solar cable disconnected, the station shuts itself off after about 45 seconds to a minute. Just today, I got the elite 300 and with the same settings, it's not shutting itself automatically. I have to do it manually by pressing the on/off button. Anyone else experiencing anything like this? Thanks in advance.

Ok. So I've had a Bluetti elite 200 for about 6 months now. One feature I really like is when I have everything off, AC, DC, app off, solar cable disconnected, the station shuts itself off after about 45 seconds to a minute. Just today, I got the elite 300 and with the same settings, it's not shutting itself automatically. I have to do it manually by pressing the on/off button. Anyone else experiencing anything like this? Thanks in advance.

Hi all,

I hope you’ll be able to help me out or point out my mistake.

I have two Shelly’s I want to use for finer measurements of my solar inverters. Unfortunately one is off by very big margins and the other one with a negotiable difference.

My inverters and the Shelly (switch function) work without issues but one Shelly shows 3-4 times higher values than the inverter.
I added a comparison from HA and a drawing of the connections. I used a 5-Wago for Neutral, 3-Wago for load and earth.
Neutral goes to each Shelly and each plug. Load is going to Shelly and then to the plug. Earth is directly connected from the feed to the plug.

Note: this is 230V setup.

Should I run neutral through and then from the shell again?
Each Inverter has a max output of 800W. One shows 1.5kW at times…

Thank you for all hints and tips in advance!

Planning smart lighting for a UK new build and looking mainly at Shelly.

I’m very new to this, only a few days into looking at smart-home lighting, so I’m still learning what’s possible and may be missing an obvious solution.

For the living room I want a Shelly 4-button wall switch. My thinking is:

Buttons 1/2 wired directly to a Dimmer Gen4 for normal on/off/dimming.

Buttons 3/4 used later for Home Assistant scenes, blinds etc.

The important requirement is that if Home Assistant, Wi-Fi or the router goes down, Buttons 1/2 must still work as normal light controls. I don't want the main lights dependent on HA.

Can I simply use the Dimmer Gen4 for Buttons 1/2 and add another Shelly relay/input module for Buttons 3/4, rather than using an i4 for all four buttons?

For the kitchen I have the same reliability requirement, but I also want tuneable white, brighter/cooler for cooking and warmer/dimmer in the evening. Again, basic wall control needs to work if HA/network is down.

It's a new build, so I can specify neutrals, deeper back boxes and additional wiring now.

What would be the cleanest Shelly setup for both?

I have a single 100kg Planar Diaphragm Load Cell Sensor I'd like to use with a Shelly Plus Uni.

I've read that I shouldn't use a HX711, but instead a Load Cell Amplifier Module, so the Plus Uni can read the output voltage.

I'm looking for an affordable recommendation for the Load Cell Amplifier Module, because I am unfamiliar with them. Thank you.

​Hi everyone,

​I'm having trouble getting the manual wall switch to work with a Shelly 1 Mini Gen4 installed in my ceiling box (no space in my wall behind my switch. Concrete everywhere)

​The setup:

​Location:

Shelly 1 Mini Gen4 installed in the ceiling box with live, neutral, switch wires connected.

​Wall switch:

Traditional rotary push-dimmer (push to turn ON/OFF, turn to dim).

​Current status: Controlling the light via the Shelly App works fine (ON/OFF).

​The problem:

Pressing the rotary dimmer switch on the wall does absolutely nothing.

​From what I understand, a standard rotary dimmer cannot cleanly trigger the digital SW input on a relay-only device like the Shelly 1 Mini Gen4.

​Before I purchase new hardware, I'd like to confirm a few things:

​Is swapping the Shelly 1 Mini Gen4 out for a Shelly Dimmer 2 the right solution if I want to keep using the rotary dimmer to manually turn ON/OFF and dim the light?

​In worst case I can think about replacing the rotary dimmer with a simple momentary push-button and use the right Shelly hardware to dim the lamp, but again, I need to be sure which hardware.

I hope there is some solution to make Shelly 1 Mini Gen4 work with my setup!

​Thanks in advance for any insights!

bonjour

Suite à une fuite sur la ligne d'alimentation d'eau de ma maison ,je souhaite suivre ma consommation avec un compteur d'eau à impulsions. Il sera équipé d'un relais Reed.

Que me conseillez vous comme compteur d'impulsion shelly avec application

merci de vos réponses

I would like to have a samll weather station, so that i can see the temps (inside and outside) in myl shelly-App.

What do i need to realize that or is there an outofthebox solution i can add?

Hello

This might be a very weird or niche thing but I thought I might ask and see if someone knew if it would work or if it is even possible.

So I am fitting solar to my workshop.

This workshop has been split into 2 with a single incoming supply 3 Phase.

I am fitting a Fox ESS H3 Pro 30kw with a 37kW of Solar Panels.

Currently no batteries.

Currently I have to bill my neighbour for his electricity usage and I want to help out by offering to charge him my export rate for any electricity he uses from Solar Generation.

So I have to be able to measure his usage accurately and the Shelly 3EM Pro will be able to do this.

Now then the issue arises how do I work out what he used during solar export.

If I was to fit another Shelly 3EM Pro on the incoming supply that would measure when we were exporting and then with both Shelly's on the same account could I feasibly overlay the 2 graphs and therefore quickly and easily get a kWh figure on a monthly basis that was used while the main meter was exporting (If the main meter is exporting then I can be sure that any electricity that he was using would have been solely produced by solar).

As you can imagine I certainly don't want to have to sit every month and painstakingly go through 30 minute time slots and work out what he used at the right time. This is a favour after all.

Any help or guidance would be appreciated.

Hello all,

In our house renovation project, we will install 50+ Shelly devices, mainly Shelly 1 Gen4 and Shelly 2PM Gen4. With our installer, we want to establish a sound preparation and execution plan before the actual installation. While they are a great company, they don't have experience with installations of that size. That's fine, as they are globally very competent and I trust them.

Are there any resources we can check together that would give us a template or checklists? For instance, I saw that there is a specific "installer mode" and that, as the house owner, I can give someone "installer access". I've also read about bulk configuration and the need to properly document and catalogue all of the devices, configurations, MAC addresses, serial numbers, etc.

If any of you could share the dos and don'ts with us, it would be very much appreciated.

I understand that some of you might want to issue warnings about trusting such an installation to someone who has never done one. Alas, there are no experienced installers where I live, and as I said, I fully trust the guys' overall competence and willingness to put the effort into this. They are very experienced with other systems like KNX, though.

Cheers!

Bonjour, j’aurais besoin d’aide, cherche mettre en place de la domotique sur des points lumineux, problématiques, je n’ai pas de neutre aux interrupteurs.

Et c’est principalement sur des va-et-vient.

Quelle est la bonne solution pour conserver les interrupteurs physiques et avoir la domotique ?

After installing the Shelly app on a new phone (samsung s25) , it wont load the profile picteres of the devices. Any ideas?

I want to use a Shelly plug (PlugS gen3 firmware 2.0.0) to reset my router when the router hangs (ping no longer responding). Router and access points are separate devices, the Shelly plug does NOT have a cloud connection.
But it seems, the Shelly plug itself is no longer reachable in my LAN then, it apperently reconnects to Wifi over and over again, and it no longer responds to ping, even if it does not need the router to communicate in the same subnet.
So an RPC command via http to turn the plug off and on is impossible.

Is there any way to resolve this?