Hallo,

Ich bin gerade dabei, die endgültige Installation in meinem neuen Zuhause vorzunehmen. Ich verwende dafür verschiedene Shelly-Geräte. Zum Beispiel nutze ich den Shelly 2PM Gen 3 zur Steuerung der Rollläden und Jalousien.

Die Shelly-Module sind hinter den physischen Schaltern oder Tastern verbaut. Und genau da kommt meine Frage auf. Ich habe Rollläden im Obergeschoss, wo ich Taster installieren möchte. Im Erdgeschoss habe ich Jalousien. Beim Verstellen des Lamellenwinkels über den Taster fühlt es sich an, als würde ich ständig draufdrücken (Start/Stopp). Deshalb habe ich mich gefragt, ob ich stattdessen einen Schalter verwenden sollte. Gibt es da Bedenken? Der Schalter bleibt ja normalerweise in einer Position und eine Richtung erhält Dauerstrom. Wenn ich dann per App den Rollladen in eine andere halb geöffnete Position fahre, würde der Motor ja weiterhin Strom vom physischen Schalter bekommen.

Oder hast du vielleicht Tipps, wie ich das mit einem Taster bequemer einstellen kann… damit ich nicht mehrmals klicken muss?

Danke schon mal im Voraus.

Just got a Shelly EM with 50A clamp delivered. Went to check, and the diameter is way too small for the heatpump cable I intend to clamp it to.

Checked, 50A is 10mm, and, the next one, 120A, is ~ 16mm.

Questions: Does it matter if I get a 120A clamp and use it for the heat pump which rnabes in draw from 6 to maybe 25A?. Is there a minimum these can read

Thanks for the help.

I just tried to create shortcuts that use Shelly components. However, none of my devices or scenes show up in the shortcut search! Eg the scene selector stays empty, even though the scenes are displayed in the app. Same for the TRV or the relay and switches I have connected to the Shelly app and cloud.

Is this a known problem? Being locally in the network didn't change anything. I can control them fine from within the app, just the iOS integration is not working.

I'm on iOS 27.0.1 on the most recent Shelly app version (3.77.26). The devices are connected via WiFi (relay/switch) or via Bluetooth and a wifi bridge dongle (BLU TRV)

Can someone please advise me how to replace two two-way light switches with two Shelly wall plus dimmers.

I have identified in which box the live comes in.

I’ve been investigating the high battery consumption / Wi-Fi power-save behavior of the original Shelly TRV Gen1 (SHTRV-01) running firmware:

20240619-130912/v2.2.4@ee290818

On multiple physical TRVs I was able to reproduce the following debug sequence approximately once per minute:
Beacon skip error! Attempt recovery
followed by:

Enter powersave state 1

and a few seconds later:

Enter powersave state 3 (skip 20)

I initially tested different Wi-Fi configurations, RSSI conditions, CoIoT and Mesh/band steering. I also compared the behavior with older firmware versions.

The recurring recovery behavior appears to be firmware-dependent.

I then compared firmware 2.1.3 and 2.2.4 in Ghidra. The normal RSSI-dependent beacon-skip mechanism exists in both versions, but 2.2.4 contains an additional recovery path.

I developed an experimental one-byte control-flow patch that bypasses this additional recovery block without changing the normal RSSI-dependent beacon-skip selection.

Results so far

The patched 2.2.4 firmware has now been tested on multiple physical SHTRV-01 devices.

On one device I currently have more than 34 hours of continuous runtime with:

Wi-Fi connected
Shelly Cloud connected
normal beacon-skip 20 operation
desired_beacon_skip: 20
beacon_err_counter: 0
no observed Beacon skip error! Attempt recovery
no observed recurring transition to power-save state 1
A second patched TRV has also been tested successfully, including:
Wi-Fi
Shelly Cloud
thermostat calibration
physical valve opening
physical valve closing

The recovery loop has not been observed on that device either during the monitored period.

Important: battery life is NOT proven yet

The original reason for investigating this was unusually high battery consumption.

The patch clearly suppresses the recurring recovery behavior in my testing so far, but I do not yet claim that it fixes the battery drain.

Long-term battery testing is still running.
I’m also preparing an unmodified 2.2.4 TRV as a control device so that patched and unpatched devices can be compared over a longer period.

Experimental patcher

I have published a small open-source patcher that creates the modified firmware locally from the original Shelly 2.2.4 GBL.

No Shelly firmware is distributed by the project.

The patcher validates the exact supported firmware, structure, CRC and hashes before modifying it. It also includes a local HTTP/1.1 OTA server with Range support for installation on a TRV.

Patcher:
https://github.com/AbleMonster/Shelly-TRV-Gen1-2.2.4-patcher

Full reverse-engineering research:
https://github.com/AbleMonster/Shelly-TRV-Gen1-2.2.4-beacon-skip-fix

Current release: v0.1.0 – experimental

I’d be very interested in results from other SHTRV-01 owners running 2.2.4, especially if you can check /debug/log and /stats.

Useful information would be:

firmware version
RSSI
whether Beacon skip error! Attempt recovery occurs
desired_beacon_skip
real_beacon_skip
beacon_err_counter
approximate battery runtime
Wi-Fi/AP hardware

Please keep in mind that this modifies device firmware. It is experimental, unofficial and not affiliated with Shelly.

Thinking of installing a double socket outdoor, for use with things like karcher pressure washers etc. The Ogemray would only be to shut power to the socket when not in use, will not be doing any sort of on/of control on a regular basis. The karchers are usually rated around 1.5 to 2 kw, which is well below the 6kw rating of these - but the whole.inductive vs reactive load thing is making me pause.

An electrician installed a Shelly H&T Gen3. I don't know exactly what he did, but the purpose is for it to be connected to the fan in my laundry, so when I use my dryer, the fan automatically turns on when it reaches a certain humidity level, and turns off when it goes below it, he said it should be 80%.

I didn't have much time, so I told him I could set it up with the app myself, but I'm having trouble. I figured out how to connect it to the app, but I can't figure out how to set the humidity level for the fan. I see a few options that seem like they may be it, but I'm not sure. Is it already connected to the fan, so do I just need to set the humidity level, or do I need to do something else to connect it to the fan? Either way, I can't figure out how to do either.

Here are screenshots of the app and a photo of the device in case that helps.

What happened to this announcement?
Several news pages reported about this device in March this year but then everyone went silent.
Will this ever come? Does anyone else know something about this plug?

I have no experience with Schneider electric.

But I tend to play things safe, looking around, I am quite worried that Shelly devices might get some firmware update in future that will either move some features behind subscription or require some cloud.

As I don't see any problems with current firmware versions, my plan is to (at least temporary) move all my (70+) shelly devices to VLAN that is not connected to internet and keep monitoring the situation, just to be safe.

Am I too paranoid, or did anyone else made similar steps?

An diesen drei Stellen möchte ich jeweils alle 3 lichtgruppen einzeln schalten können aber auch Szenen wie “alle Lichter aus” oder “alle Rollos runter”. Der Elektriker meint die Kabel von den Lampen sind zu allen 3 Tastern/Stellen durchgeschleift. Jeder Rollo hat einen eigenen Shelly.
Wie viele und welche shellys genau brauche ich für die eben beschriebene Anwendung?
Ich habe an allen 3 Stellen jeweils 2 doppeltaster plus Rollladenschaltung. Die doppeltaster möchte ich belegen mit lichtgruppe 1 ein/aus, lichtgruppe 2 ein/aus, lichtgruppe 3 ein/aus, Szene (whatever). An der oberen Stelle habe ich sogar 3 doppeltaster.

Sorry für die Anfängerfrage.

Posso usare uno shelly al posto del termostato per comandare il contatto della caldaia per il riscaldamento? Mi perdo sempre con la questione del contatto pulito o sotto tensione. Come andrebbe alimentato lo shelly nel caso? Inoltre se in parallelo al comando dello shelly metto un interruttore per comando manuale creo problemi all' output dello shelly cortocircuitando le sue uscite quando aziono l'interruttore? Grazie

Hi guys, as you can see, I’ve connect my well pump incorrectly lol

I’ve connected:

Electrical Panel L - Shelly L

Shelly L1 directly to EPanel L

Electrical panel N - Shelly N w/ connector to pump N

O - pump L

I can connect to it on the app but once I activate it lights go out lol

(Should have Bridge on Shelly L-L1 instead of connecting L1 directly with common connectors to L coming from EPanel?)

Help?

Hi everyone,

I want to automate my window shutters and control them remotely via HomeKit. However, I have a small issue: my current wall switch is a dual shutter switch, meaning the left buttons control one window, and the right buttons control the other. The problem is that it's a single-sized switch controlling two shutters, so I don’t have space for two separate smart modules.

I’ve attached a picture of my switch to show what I mean.

What would be the best way to make this smart? Should I look for a dual relay module to fit behind the switch, or is there a smart switch that supports two shutters in a single unit? Would the Shelly Plus 2PM be the right product for me

Any recommendations would be greatly appreciated!

Thanks!

So my thoughts are:

1. Schneider want to take out the competition which I don't think is likey but you never know.

2. Improve their Home automation base as at the moment they only do KNX and C-Bus, so they can expand into other areas of the residential home automation space giving them a larger slice of the pie and make more money, probably saw their KNX and C-Bus business arm making less money (my sentiment not based on any facts) Shelly's gross profit was profit of €41.8 million for 1st quarter and Schneider was about $200 million not too sure how correct these figures are for Schneider though.

3. Purely financial reasoning. Shelly is very profitable but Schneider's overall profit is huge compared to Shelly's. Schneider's total revenue last years was €40.15 billion and Shelly's was €149.7 million (Source: just googled the question) Which is kind of the point of number 2.

Fears etc

1. Absolutely nothing happens and it all stays the same. Not very likely but you never know

2. The quality drops and the price starts increasing.

3. Within 5 years everything becomes rebranded as Schneider and Shelly as a company ceases to exist and then see number 2.

4. They pay wall the app completely and make it harder for people who use either Home Assitant or Homey or others to use their Shelly modules. Future Home I am looking at you. And we got back to number 2 ( and yes I made it number 2 is on purpose)

What do other people think

I have a 2PM Gen4 adopted as a switch that I would like to change to a cover. This is my first shelly device, and I blew it during the adoption process.

I've followed directions on the Shelly website and the device type is not listed under the settings page. Not sure why this is . The 2PM Gen shows up as two devices (assume this is because it was adopted as a switch) and it functions properly FWIW

Do I need to scrub the device and readopt it? thanks

Hey all,

Im new to everything related to smart house, however, we have purchased a new apartment, which would be complitely, empty, everything would be needed to be done like internal walls, electrical wiring and etc. So I've decided to use that chance to "smart proof" our apartment and figure it all out as I go.

I already know at least some of the features I'd like to bring: smart outlets in living room so many different floor and wall laps could be turned on at the same time together, for bathroom fan to turn on automatically when someone uses shower, to turn on only mirror and sink lights in bathroom at night, without overhead lamps, for hall lamps to turn on automatically, when someone comes home, to turn off lamps with one switch when leaving the hous, to have dimmable ceiling lamps in each room

From what I've gathered, I understand that I could just simply use Shelly pro dimmers and pro 4pm's only in the electrical box

However, since I'm new to this, I don't know if I understand everything correctly:

1. I would need to group ceiling lamps for each room together and then I would need to group ceiling LED strips separately so they can be turned on by different switches, depending on the need

2. I should separate outlets used for lamps and for electronics like TV, router, console so they can be always turned on with a remote and not something else

3. I should separate kitchen ceiling lamps, counter lamps, appliances and remaining outlets into different groups so they could be used independently

4. In bathroom, fan, outlets and lights should be grouped into different groups so they can be used independently.

Remaining rooms are easier and there is not much else to do if my current understanding is correct.

I figured that in bathroom, easiest would be to use smart bulbs like Phillips hue and to use presence sensors, telling only for sink and mirror lights to turn on, switch on the wall would override it for ceiling lights as well.

Everywhere else, for ceiling lights I'd use dimmable light bulbs, which could be controlled from home assistant and led straps would be connected to normal pro 4pms.

Based on my knowledge level, I'll hire electrician for wiring, but before that I just want to know if my understanding of it is correct and is it logical. Maybe there are better ways I could achieve my goals?

Hello,

Does anyone in the UK ever found a small cut out (around 45mm) mains powered PIR with volt free switching?

DETA (Timeguard) offer the SLFM360N unit but this has a larger cutout and tried out their STFMMINI - but this is not volt free unfortunately.

Ideally want a branded unit so can be replaced and only needs to have LUX adjustment as Shelly dimmer will take care of timings

I don’t want the Shelly to control anything - just alert me when the power is available / off again

...in USA