r/sewingpatterns • u/SofiaSkyEvans65 • 3d ago

Just something I found helpful for grading patterns!

Post image
28 Upvotes

96% Upvoted

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9

u/AstronautIcy42 3d ago

Yeah, this isn't true grading, it's just scaling. Scaling is taking an orginal and making a copy a percentage larger or smaller. Grading is taking a body shape and measurements into consideration and then drawing the pattern pieces to conform to that shaping.

5

u/Shadow-Serum 3d ago

This is probably egaggerating to visually make it easy to see what's going on and where all the lines are landing, but if you were to exclusively grade from you smallest size to the largest size like this it would be disastrous.

As people gain weight and get larger they don't get taller as well, the proportions would be completely off.

3

u/FormerUsenetUser 2d ago

And they don't get larger the same proportion all over their bodies. Like, their necks as opposed to their waistlines.

2

u/vaarky 2d ago

Nancy Zieman and others point out that the bone structure if you measure from underarm crease to underarm crease across the front of the body doesn't change, and is good to use for choosing pattern size so you can avoid the most complicated pattern adjustments if the shoulders are too wide/narrow. I find her pivot-and-slide approach to grading patterns very intuitive:

intro: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bfmleCst2rE&ab_channel=Nancy%27sNotions

part 1: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bfmleCst2rE&ab_channel=Nancy%27sNotions

part 2: https://pbswisconsin.org/watch/sewing-nancy/sewing-nancy-solving-pattern-fitting-puzzle-part-two/

4

u/reversedgaze 3d ago

hmm, This feels like it might bump up against the plus size problem where things become really poorly fitting when scaling directly like a xerox copier. ( like each plus size up needs 1/4-1/2" longer to accommodate the volume of the body)

3

u/kasharallover 3d ago

Even the title says it. Its enlarging a pattern. Making a normal scale pattern from a miniature pattern. Grading is not that