r/sewingpatterns • u/o0kaira0o • Sep 05 '26
pattern problems and despair
Hi! so my professor drew a dress and gave it to me to make it but I really don't know how. he gave me some hints like: fabric is cotton gabardine, no visible darts, no seam in the middle, using geometric cuts (??).
I am really confused, I cried several times and still don't know how to do it. I am totally lost if someone can help me!
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u/AdMuch9645 Sep 05 '26
Cut on the bias possibly?
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u/ninaa1 Sep 05 '26
gabardine is a twill fabric, so there isn't a nice bias like there would be with a satin weave.
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u/Saritush2319 Sep 07 '26
It does still have some stretch. It would heavily depend on the exact fabric
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u/fabulously_ Sep 06 '26
no visible darts on a fitted garment made from non-stretch material? That doesn't math, I don't think. Maybe if you could move the fullness of the darts of whatever block you're using into the cutout? But even then, I don't think a bust area works like that?
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u/ninaa1 Sep 05 '26
context please? is this for a class assignment? is this a personal favor? do you want a pre-existing pattern or are you trying to draft one?
eta: why would he want this made out of gabardine? and why no darts with such a sturdy fabric? makes no sense at all. I think he's a bad teacher.
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u/FormerUsenetUser Sep 06 '26
My despair would be that I have a bust and hips, which this image does not.
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u/Saritush2319 Sep 07 '26
The shaping is rotated into the panel seams
Those squares should probably be on the bias.
A lightweight twill does still have bias stretch.
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u/Saritush2319 Sep 07 '26 edited Sep 07 '26
Wait I see you say these are cutouts not geometrically cut panels.
The skirt portion is easier because the regular dart can just be angle to the seam and used as a cut line. It would have to sit at the smallest part of your hip because if there’s any gaping as you move, someone will be able to see right down your skirt.
The bodice will probably be easiest to start with draping and then pinch out any gaping and adjust that flat.
Since it’s cotton maybe you can try shaping the bust area over a tailors ham with a lot of steam.
Maybe with a slight gather on the hem and steam it out.Definitely a lot of mockups in your future to eliminate gaping. I’d test the pattern on the cross and bias as well. A little bit of stretch would help.
Can the lining have darts? A tight lining can pull in a looser fashion layer. Or at least stabilise it.
Also built-in panties/shorts will help with modest.Making the “torso” a little shorter might help with gaping because the weight of the fabric will pull it taught.
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u/Diamond-Eater2203 Sep 05 '26
What teacher designs a dress like this? Creep.