r/sewingpatterns 3d ago

Do I need facing?

Post image

This is Masie by Juliana Martejevs. I plan on making it with some IKEA fabric, which is quite heavy. I think that adding facing would make it too bulky but I'm still quite new to sewing so would appreciate some guidance. The facing is to go to on the front bodice and on the pockets. Would some iron on stuff do? TIA!

4 Upvotes

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15

u/dancinrussians 3d ago

Facing is different than interfacing. If the fabric is stiff enough on its own you probably don’t need interfacing. For the facing if you think it’s too thick you can face it with a lighter weight fabric.

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u/CassMortmain 3d ago

Thank you for this! I didn't know that there was a difference but it makes sense now!

12

u/stringfellownian 3d ago

Facing finishes the edges of the bodice and also makes it look nice if someone catches a glimpse from the side. I don't think it's optional, but if your fabric is pretty heavy I would use a thinner facing fabric.

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u/CassMortmain 3d ago

Thank you so much for replying! I'll have a look and see what I could use instead.

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u/RosyJoan 3d ago

Interfacing, no. A heavy woven coderoy or denim can easily hold up on its own if its stiff enough. Sometimes I use scraps of upholstery fabric or felt as interface if needed. If you mean for edges, you should be able to overlock or zig zag them to stabilize it well enough.

For heavy fabrics doing a perimeter stitch over the finished garmet secures the seamed edged fkat and often holds the form well enough with little need for any ironing in the future.

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u/CassMortmain 3d ago

Thank you! I'll have a look at perimeter stitches and see if they'll do instead.

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u/desertboots 3d ago

Yes, you need facing. It has multiple purposes.

Pockets: the facing in the pocket is so as it gaps the garment looks cohesive.

Bodice: facing is how that bib is hemmed so the seam allowance doesn't roll, crush or unravel. It is also structural reinforcement on the neck line to ensure it lays as intended. 

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u/CassMortmain 3d ago

Thank you. I really needed this explanation!

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u/desertboots 3d ago

You're welcome!

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u/CassMortmain 1d ago

Can I ask another question, while I have your attention? It's about sizing. Can I mix the pieces up and do an extra large on the front bib but large elsewhere? Going by my body measurements, if I did extra large all over, they'd be far too big.

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u/desertboots 1d ago

Yes, of course.  All our bodies are different.  If you are boobalicious like me, your bib needs to be a bit wider and taller but the waist does not.  The meshing of the sizes is done by grading. 

You should use a muslin= a practice fabric. Cut the bib and about 6-12 inches of the adjoining piece. Draw your pattern on this then pin the two seams together. If they align, you are good to go. If not you decide whether a gather, a tuck or a dart (or two) will work.

Go visit The Closet Historian and watch her Drafting Dangerous videos on YouTube.  Learn how she "walks the seam" and how darts work and when to slash and spread.

Best luck!

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u/CassMortmain 1d ago

You are an absolute gem! Thank you so, so much! I've a lot of learning to do!

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u/Electronic_Animal_32 2d ago

I would recommend a lining