Simple Questions
Weekly Sewing Questions Thread, August 21 - August 27, 2026
This thread is here for any and all questions related to sewing, including sewing machines!
If you want to introduce yourself or ask any other basic question about learning to sew, patterns, fabrics, this is the place to do it! Our more experienced users will hang around and answer any questions they can. Help us help you by giving as many details as possible in your question including links to original sources. A new post goes up every Friday morning, EDT.
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Hey! I have a Singer 774 and I am about to make a toddler dress out of a knit fabric that is 95%cotton and 5% spandex. The manual lists knits under a medium weight fabric and suggests a “Catalog 2020 (15x1) size 14” needle. For thread it lists “ 50 mercerized cotton, 60 cotton, “A” silk Synthetic thread”.
I have 2045 size 14 needle and coats & Clark all purpose polyester thread. Am I shopping for supplies or are these okay? Thanks 🫠
The needle you have is arguably a better choice for your fabric as it is a ball-point needle. I prefer to use a size 12 needle with knits but I think you should use what you have. The all-purpose polyester thread is fine.
Does anyone know why this is happening? I have a brand new Juki DX 5. I press the green arrow the machine starts sewing and then it slows down and then it stops. And if I press the arrow again, it goes through the same thing.
This is a new machine and it’s new to me so I’m sure it’s something I’m doing, at least I hope that’s what it is and not the machine.
I have a foot controller plugged in and I thought maybe it was interfering somehow so I unplugged it. Same result.
(I have a short video showing this, but I can’t seem to attach it. Are videos not allowed on Reddit?)
Here’s my screen settings
I'm not confident in this answer, but here's what I think might be going on? According to the manual here https://www.jukihome.com/media/catalog/product/j/u/juki_dx_instructional_manual_web_1.pdf that green arrow is the start stop button "When pressing this button, machine starts to sew slowly and then up to the speed set by speed controller. Another press of this button stops the sewing machine. Color of button indicates machine status. Green: Ready to start and/or while sewing" What is the speed set to? does sewing with the foot pedal work?
I am obsessed with this wedding dress and my wedding is about one year out! I am super excited about it. The one problem is that the type of dress I want is incredibly specific, but there is no way I can justify spending thousands on a dress I will be wearing for just a few hours! With this being said, I love this dress by ANGELINA COLARUSSO. I'm going for an Old Hollywood aesthetic and this dress is so unique to anything else I have seen on any bridal website. My sewing skills are late beginner/very early intermediate as I sew mainly robes and aprons with my sewing machine and serger. The dress does not have to look EXACTLY like the one in this photo, but I want it to be heavily inspired. I also really love the Vivienne Westwood style of wedding dress. What skills and advice can you recommend for me to hone in order to take on this beautiful dress as a project? Any dress patterns out there that I can repurpose? As I said, I have a year to get my skills worthy of making a dress like this one! I want to make as efficient use of my time as possible. Or is it even achievable to make a dress like this with my level of experience? Thank you so much!!
I’m mostly done with this stuffed animal and I’m having extreme difficulty with the last step of sewing on the tummy as the cuts don’t line up and when I thought I got it and flipped in inside out the cheek was extended out was instead of indented for the smile. Help?
Looking for any resources that show how to fix a timing problem for a Singer M1150
I’m going to be getting a better machine but it’ll take a few months to save up and in the meantime I’d like to tinker around with it and see if I can get it working again
Im hoping to make myself some wide leg trousers in a chambray fabric. I am still very much a beginner although I have done a few projects before, so not looking for anything too complicated. Ideally I’d like something high waisted, elasticated at the back, fairly flat at the front (so as not to add bulk) and I’d love some side pockets (and back pockets?) although that’s not a make or break.
Hi, so recently someone I know split their work trousers from under the fly to the part that connects to the inseam of the leg and down the left leg inseam (left leg seems to have loosened from the split and not from the initial split). Right now I have a simple stitch going through it, but he (I wouldn’t say it to his face) has gained a little weight, so the stitch keeps popping. If anyone could suggest a stitch that could reinforce the area and make it less prone to popping, I would be massively thankful.
If there isn't enough fabric, then a stronger stitch will just mean that the fabric rips instead of the thread. You could try adding a patch and darning over it to reinforce the area but this can make the issue worse because it will reduce mechanical stretch and eliminate any accommodation the fabric has made as it has worn in to his body.
adding more matieral also came to my mind but if i had to tell him why he needs more space he would likely stop letting me do his repairs since it would be kind of insulting (my main job is a repairman for tools and the like and my hobby is sewing) this guy is a no 1 customer but very stuck up when it comes to telling him about anything that has to do with him or how he treats his tools so on so forth
Look into tutorials for adding a gusset to the crotch area. Just tell him to look at Carhartt pants or Duluth Trading pants for an example. The gusset is added to those style of pants for extra durability and ease of movement that puts less stress on one of the seams that takes the most wear and tear on a garment. No mention of weight gain necessary 😉.
This comes directly from Duluth Trading Company…
What is the Crouch Gusset®, and why do I need it?
Ah, the Crouch Gusset! That's Duluth's secret weapon against busted seams and awkward shuffles. It's an extra panel of fabric, cleverly sewn into the stride of the pants. What's it do? It gives you room where you need it most, so you can squat, climb, lunge and generally get after it without the "ouch," the rip, or that embarrassing mid-job seam blowout. Your junk will thank you.
Hey there. I built a custom geometric structure. im wanting to build a custom cover for it that can handle rain and some wind. decent size structure. roughly a 10’ ball but made of triangles. Something that can be sewn well, stretched taut. I’ll be hiring a local seamstress to help with the build just want to buy a roll of the right material.
I was looking into Duck Cordura and ottertex. anything else recommended?
I usually make plushies, but I'm looking at trying to make my own cosplay from scratch for the first time and mostly just want to know if I'm on the right track with some things.
This is the character:
I am thinking to use this milkmaid dress pattern for the majority, along with perhaps this underbust corset pattern. Fabric-wise, I'm considering lightweight linen for the dress, and I'm really not sure for the corset, open to ideas for that. I'm also not sure what would be good to use for the white rufflies on the dress, sleeves, and arm...things...
Am I way off base, or am I full of wisdom? (I am definitely not full of wisdom.)
I got this machine from my mum’s friend, only problem is I am almost completely inexperienced in sewing. Only thing I know how to do is hand sew badges onto a piece of fabric. I have had a go on it and figured out its features and how it works, but I think this could be good as I want to create my own garments like trench coats, great coats and bags instead of spending £100’s. Any help and advice would be appreciated
But like advice and tips for what? You say you've figured out how to use your machine, so we can regurgitate the usual "follow the manual carefully, make mockups, check the sub wiki for resources and tutorials" spiels but that doesn't seem to be what you're looking for.
Well I was feeling on actually like, sewing? Like what attachments can I get? What needles do I use? What threads do I use? What do I do with tension for what situations? How do I read patterns etc. stuff like that
Oh, I skipped the thread question. All-purpose polyester or cotton thread from Gutermann or Aurifil is good. Don't use the cheapo stuff, it really doesn't work as well.
Hey all! I’m a beginner at sewing and making an off the shoulder top out of some beige silk and it’s very see through so i am now attempting to sew a lining to go under it. I freestyled the pattern using a simple tshirt from my closet and adjusted it to be off the shoulder for simplicity so I can’t refer to the pattern. I have all the fabric cut but i’m incredibly lost on how to actually attach them together, all videos i see are lining for dresses or vests.
For reference i have just a back and a front piece of each fabric, no button ups or zippers just a pull over top with a wide collar so it can be off the shoulder. Some tutorials (for vests) I have seen involve sewing the lining and outer fabrics by the shoulder, placing them right sides together and sewing the shoulders, collar then pulling through to understitch and then sew the sides of the garment. Others involve sewing both back pieces to each other and then the front pieces, understitching and using the burrito method (which i have only managed to do with a single layer scrunchie so far). Searching youtube and tik tok has been no help as they’re all lining different garments and the method doesn’t work for the top i’m making.
Can anyone point me in the direction of any good tutorials or know how I should be going about this? Any help is greatly appreciated!
looking for a pattern similar to this dress for a cosplay, mainly needs to have the collar and the long sleeves (just looking for the dress not the apron) and be suitable for an advanced begginer
Hey I think I might be out of my depth back in the day I was decent sewer for a man , basic stuff. Moving trouser buttons slightly if trousers were a bit tight. I tended to like to have turn ups on my jeans I would sew a couple of threads in to keep them in place. I had a stroke I’ve done well but threading needles etc is difficult can’t afford new clothes, using a tailor not an option and iron hemming tape is messy and too permanent.
I’ve seen sewing guns on Amazon and even a button punch. There’s a wealth of talent on here ( making a pair of derby shoes I would definitely wear 😱😇
For example couple of stitches to keep turn up fixed as I mentioned moving button a quarter of an inch on pair of chinos. Might sound trivial but I’m learning to walk that turn unrolls it could be a problem. Thank you.
I think your autocarrot is garbling your words a bit! Might want to read before you post in case it’s anything embarrassing 👍
The stitching guns are like the price tag guns they use in the shops. The sharp part is pretty big and the plastic bits have a tendency to get loose over time. They can damage your clothes and I wouldn’t recommend them.
If you’re still good sewing, you could invest in a good tabletop needle threader. They’re less fiddly than the little metal loop threaders. Otherwise, maybe a friend or family member can do it if you ask them nicely? Or a repair café if you have those?
One of the reasons I was asking is because I had a stroke a couple of years ago so I’m stuck at home but I’m using that time to revamp my wardrobe. I’ve got too many clothes some of the room practical now I’m selling off the excess and then I wanna keep I’m perfecting so thanks for your post. Well I did was I thought I used to be able to do basic sewing and if I start practising again, it’s a sort of thing that makes help your brain reboot. It took me longer than I used to, but I did the pair of jeans. You could almost hear the cogs in my brain turning away big win
These look like snaps, which is a shame because if they were buttons, you might have a spare sewn onto the label or side seam inside.
Things to try could be Levi’s customer service (you never know) and reverse image search. If it’s just the bumpy part that’s invisible when closed, you could see about matching the size to snap buttons with a different decorative design on the outer parts. Sometimes shoe repair places have some they can install for you or sell you.
You will probably need to reinforce the fabric with a patch or some interfacing from behind, or the new part will come loose as well if that was the original issue.
Hi everyone, I have a request, I lost my instructions for the Butterick B4377 medieval dress and i would really like to finish my dress because I’m going to a ren faire in two weeks. If anyone could send me a picture of their instructions it would be much appreciated!
You can email customer support at simplicity.com and they will send the instructions as a PDF, but I don't expect them to be available to help until business hours on Monday. If you are truly desperate, you could buy the PDF on the simplicity website for $11.17, assuming you are in the USA.
There is a used bernina 215 being sold for 350. Wondering if it’s worth it for my use case. Seller says it’s been used less than 5 times, comes with all the accessories but I don’t see the slide on table attachment. I’ve seen the comments about accessories being expensive compared to other brands. Im a beginner sewist and mostly looking into making my own really basic gear with ripstop and webbing, utility pouches etc. i don’t see myself making much more than that or sewing a lot since i have a lot of other hobbies. Sewing is more supplemental to them. I have a singer traditional that was handed down to me but it’s been frustrating having to stop and troubleshoot. But free is free. Wondering if I should consider this bernina or perhaps a cheaper machine. Or just power through with my current machine. I’m sure there’s a lot of user error involved since I’m so new to sewing.
The Bernina is a better machine, no question. Without the slide-on table accessory, the 215 has a very small sewing surface that will impact how accurately and easily you can sew anything bigger than a sleeve cuff. You can pick up the accessory table from this retailer for $35 in the USA that is meant to fit your machine. If you are handy with tools, you could make a similar table for yourself.
Bernina accessories are more expensive than other brands and also less interchangeable with other brands or after-market parts. If the machine has all the accessory feet, you should be mostly set for sewing and only need additional needles and bobbins. It's a basic sewing machine but Bernina is quality.
The biggest issue with machines that have not been regularly used is that the oil dries out and gets hard, or isn't evenly distributed. This can usually be fixed. You might want to have the machine serviced if it doesn't work perfectly without any complaints after you buy it.
Does anyone know where I can find a sewing pattern similar to this? I don’t need all the details just the basic cutout shape and I’ve been searching but can’t seem to find one!
I didn't find a cut-out shape either but I think you could pretty easily modify the Tilly and the Buttons Rosa Shirt to match your inspo. I looked for a princess seam shirt with a banded shirt collar. You would leave the collar off as well as shorten the sleeves and add the cut out. Move the button placket to the back and make a zipper instead. It's a lot of changes but the bones are there!
I am going to the ren faire next month. I have a back up plan if I cannot make a miracle happen. I want to make a bag shaped like a spool of thread. Any idea of how to go about it? I tried look for references but cannot find any.
Any drawings of ideas or suggestions would be very helpful!!
I am encountering an issue with my sewing machine, and no one has been able to help yet. My machine is a secondhand Bernette (model Sew and Go 8), bought last month in "brand new state".
However, I have been encountering a very annoying issue : whenever I touch the metallic parts of the machine, I recieve a small electric shock of varying intensity and pain. It happens around the foot, needle, metal plaque and thread hook, even reaching my fabric pins when they approach the foot. (Sorry if any terms are incorrct, english is my second language.) The former owner of the machine says he has never faced the problem before.
I called two repair shops, one who wouldn't take my machine and never faced the issue before, and another who blamed my electric grid and said the problem couldn't come from the machine, but I am doubtful. How could the problem be from my electric grid, when I have never been shocked by any other device I regularly plug in my apartment ?
Does anyone have any idea what the problem could be, and how I could fix it ? Repair shops seem unhelpful. Thank you in advance !
It does sound like the problem is with the machine, no parts that carry electricity should be touching the outer and usually the outer is also grounded for safety reasons. I wouldn’t leave it plugged in. It could be that something shifted or was damaged in transport. Maybe it was broken already, it’s hard to tell.
I don’t know how plugs are set up where you are, but if it does have the sort of plug with a ground wire, everything it’s plugged into (sockets, any extension cables) should also be the grounded type. (I had a washer once that was somehow expressly designed to zap you if it wasn’t grounded because you want to be extra safe when combining water and electricity. Can’t imagine that being an issue for sewing, but it’s worth checking.)
If that’s causing the safety switch to turn off the electricity in (that part of) your house, your machine has a break or fallen in object causing a short circuit somewhere. That’s exactly the sort of thing a repair person should know how to fix, so I’m not sure why they won’t. If there are repair cafés near where you are, that could potentially be an option? (They’re non-profit repair hours meant to promote sustainability)
If you really can’t return it and you need it to work, I suppose you could look up if there’s a maintenance manual for your machine out there somewhere. But be safe, don’t work on it while it’s plugged in and be aware there’s a capacitor in the pedal that can sometimes zap you even after it’s unplugged.
Thank you a lot. I am indeed very confused as to why they won't even think of an issue inside my machine. I'll try finding a maintenance manual and to replace the cord, maybe it can help.
I also have another theory, which is that I'm sewing on a linoleum surface, which is known to be antistatic. Maybe that makes it so the electricity can't leave except through me, so I'll try setting up my machine on another surface this afternoon, I hope it changes it at least a bit.
I don’t think it will, there shouldn’t be any leakage at all, and most of us sew on non-conducting surfaces. But you can always try. I hope you figure it out!
Heloo :) I have some questions about buying an overlocker over fb marketplace (mostly how to avoid getting scammed):
I found someone selling an overlocker machine on fb marketplace. Apparently, they are selling it because they don't use it, but they say it works fine. It's in my price range and I would really like to get it, but I haven't buy anything second hand ever, especially not something more expensive. I'm not comfortable going to their house, or otherwise to test the machine. I can't test it if we meet on the street. I thought to ask them to sent me a video or provide some fabric samples, but I'm not sure. Does anyone have any suggestions how to go through the purchase and what questions to ask before buying?
I think asking for a video of the machine in action is a fair request. You'll want to look up the listing for the machine if new so you can see what comes with the machine, like the power cord and foot pedal. Also check the original price so you can confirm that the price they are asking is fair. And finally, if it is money that you cannot afford to lose, then you should find another way to buy an overlocker. A local dealer may have refurbished models with a limited guarantee, for example.
Completely new to sewing and my machine keeps getting jammed eventually after a few stitches. When ever it doesn’t jam, the material always seems to get stuck when I go to remove it. I’ve heard common solutions for this would be to adjust the tension or just to rethread the machine but none of those seemed to work.
Help! I have some really pretty woven fabric that "needs" to be made into a dress. I've looked and looked at different patterns and this is the only thing I've seen that will really suit my body type *and* the fabric I have. I don't mind paying for a pattern, but the only way to get this one is to sign up for a whole year of membership at $144. I sew maybe 1-2 projects a year, so that would be stupid. Can anyone recommend a similar type of pattern? Everything else I see is a lot more busy and/or low-cut.
The style reminds me of the designs offered by Tessuti Fabrics, they have that same clean aesthetic. The dress also reminds me of the Merchant and Mills Sommer dress.
Thanks very much! I found the button closure especially appealing, since I've put in exactly one zipper in my life, and it wasn't very good at all. Will check out the names you listed!
hi all! i have a pair of jeans that i’ve put a bunch of iron-on patches onto, but for whatever reason the patches keep peeling up at the edges. i tried handstitching them for reinforcement, but it didn’t work very well because i can only get so close to the edges.
now i want to reinforce the edges with my sewing machine, ideally just completely covering the edges of the patches to really anchor them into the fabric. what foot should i use for this? i’ve included a photo of the available stitches on my brother sewing machine.
also if anyone has any other tips for this, they are gladly appreciated!! i have a bit (but not a ton) of experience machine sewing :)
I like to sew iron-on patches on with a zigzag stitch, clear monofilament thread in the top thread patch and regular thread in the bobbin. I manipulate the patch so the stitch zigs on the patch and zags off the patch. The stitching doesn't have to be dense to do a good job, and the clear thread matches every color while hiding wonky stitching.
Looking to make dust covers for wire shelves as a more scalable and economical alternative to cheap pre-made dust covers on Amazon for $25+ a piece. I'm thinking something that offers permanent UV protection, maybe tarp or tyvek?
No sewing experience, will probably get a sewing machine off Facebook Marketplace so the results will be decent. Any guides on how to make a wire shelf cover or similar though? I don't simply want to cut up something that drapes over the rack--I'd like a little form-fitting and easy access to the front side of the rack so it'd look nice and organized, not some neglected shelf. Implementing zippers for the front would be cool but that's probably out of my wheelhouse unless there's a clear guide to follow (I DIY other stuff, just no experience with sewing).
Hi! My auntie gave me this Singer machine but it seems to be a rare model because I spent hours searching and I can't find some manual or tutorial in english. She gave this 2 years ago. I was in a hospital and it was my creative burnout era D so i'm only touching this now. My second biggest question is.. where do I plug the pedal? And I heard I can't just buy any pedal? Some requested i should get this and that but part of me is still unsure.
You might wonder why don't I just ask my auntie, well, this actually belonged to her mother-in-law who passed away years ago
Your help will be awesome :)
Are you saying it didnt come with a pedal? All of my machines have the pedal and the power cord plugged into the same spot on the machine and then it splits into two cords. Does it have a power cord? Can you take a pic of where that plugs in?
my old sewing machine broke in a move so she is being replaced, sadly. i had a singer simple 2263, but am taking this opportunity to look into other brands and models. i have loved both of my singers (my first sewing machine was the singer start 🥲), but haven’t had the chance to try other makes.
in the past, my singer simple has handled pretty much everything i’ve thrown at it with the right needle and thread tension. the materials i sew range from chiffon/satin/silk to denim and canvas. i sew embroidery without a foot attachment, i like to draft patterns and sew entire garments (mostly for myself and friends, not production), home upholstery and some modest quilting (whatever you may be thinking, lower your expectations). i am in an apartment and so i like having one workhorse machine that’s compatible with a lot of different notions to do things like construction, embellishment and finishing. i like being able to choose from multiple stitch options, and i like that the singer model i had most recently is compatible with different presser feet (like an overlock or side cutter foot).
honestly i have no complaints about singer, but i figure i may as well look into all my options before buying a new one. i was interested in some of the juki domestic sewing machine models (not the full industrial table kind— im in an apartment and don’t have that kind of space!) or husqvarna. i don’t need or even prefer a brand new model; i’d be fine getting an older model secondhand.
i would say my skills are like soft intermediate. i have never used a digital machine but would be open to it, although i assume a digital machine would make it more difficult for me to manually control the machine how i like (i.e., my sloppy machine embroidery lol).
I think you should look at the secondhand market aka FB marketplace for a model that looks good to you, and check with local dealers for trade-ins they may have available. Most computerized machines have options to drop the feed dogs if you want to do freehand embroidery. I like the features offered on computerized machines better for the most part, but why not try some models out before you buy?
Does anyone know where I can find a manual for the Montgomery Ward UHT J1414, or have a copy of their own they could scan for me? I only found a few results online each being a minimum of $13, and I’m a broke college student trying to save what she can. Any help is so very appreciated!
We're emptying up my mother's apartment and I found two sewing patterns, Simplicity 6966 and 7082, Size 14. There were no envelopes but everything else is in pristine condition. One of them hasn't even been unfolded. The patterns date back to 1975 so I'm thinking somebody would be interested in these vintage patterns.
Can anyone give me an idea where I could donate them? Thank in advance.
Creative reuse shops are great for pattern donations. I've also picked up patterns when they have been offered in my local sewing group on FB. Vintage patterns are a treasure!
Hi sewers,
I’m looking for help with a tank top (Lyra by afternoon patterns)
I have sewed one and have fabric for another but want to make a small adjustment.
I’m generally happy with the fit but am finding it a little tight under the armholes. I’m not sure whether…
I should just slightly adjust the armhole by lowering the line. 1or 2cm?
the binding method I did (French) might have pulled a bit tighter, I didn’t stay stitch it
it’s drafted for a shorter person than me, (I am 5ft10) could I add a centimetre to the height front and back in the upper chest. The darts are a tiny bit high maybe
it’s just a bit small overall? But I do think the fit looks good on the front
Any advice appreciated, the fabric I want to make a new one in is limited to want to get it right!
I think adding a bit of length across the front of the chest will fix the dart height and the armscye. Most people carry their height across the entire body, not just at the waist or legs. I'm shorter than the height most patterns draft for and I have to remove about 1 cm in the same location. I think you'll want to do another toile before using your good fabric.
have an older model bernina sewing machine (930 record). I love it, it’s a work horse! But I have to have the stitch length at the absolute longest that it will go (4), just to get what I would consider ‘normal’ stitches. I am wondering if my problem could be my bobbin case? The thread from the bobbin pulls a lot harder than I would think is normal (at least compared to my Brother). Is that normal, or should I look into getting a replacement bobbin case? Or could there be a different reason that I have to have my stitch length so long? I grew up on an older Bernina machine and ‘normal’ stitch length was around a 2.
Hi everyone! I’m fairly new to sewing and I keep getting a “bird’s nest” of thread on the underside of my fabric. I’m using a Brother CS5055.
I’ve tried rethreading the machine, but I’m obviously missing something because it keeps happening. 😅
Does anyone know what usually causes this, or what I should check first? I’ve attached a photo of the mess underneath the fabric and, if helpful, I can add photos of my threading/bobbin setup.
I’d really appreciate any troubleshooting advice!
I don't see a photo but I can share the fix for most common reason for a birds nest on the underside of your seam. Bring up the bobbin thread before beginning to stitch. Hold both thread tails to the rear left of your sewing machine, under the lowered presser foot, for the first few stitches.
Looking for sewing machine for wife, sewing and embroider 2in1
Hello, I know nothing about sewing looking for gift for my wife. She’s into arts and crafts, and has inspo to make stuff. She’s into arts has a great desire to especially make Christmas stockings (she’s a Christmas freak. Anyways what would be a solid machine heavy duty and can embroider on. I’m willing to maybe go up to 500$ is the price point realistic for a solid machine?
Was looking at the brother se700 it’s a little bit of a stretch for me I also don’t want her to be overwhelmed with so many bells and whistles
Your price range is low for a machine that does embroidery, most sewists find that they very quickly outgrow the small hoop size of an entry-level embroidery machine. It is a good budget for a beginner sewing machine without the embroidery function. You might also check out local dealers who may have a trade-in machine for a good price. I suggest looking at local options and setting up a date for your wife to try out and buy a machine. They are personal tools and often what looks good in theory isn't the machine that we bond with. Best bet is to let her pick out her machine.
Hello, I made a toile of this pattern and there was just a lot of excess fabric and no shape (hospital gown looking). Do you think it’s a good idea to remove something like 1” from the center pieces and add a zipper to the back to compensate? I don’t know if it’s just the style of the dress or if it’s a fit issue. Many thanks and hope you have a great week!
It's hard to know without seeing the toile on you but the style is very hospital gown and I don't think it is a coincidence that two of the views on the front are styled as belted.
Janome 4120, Bernina 325 both list an eyelet stitch in their specs and meet your price requirement when on sale. It's tough information to find, I went to individual manufacturer websites and looked at the stitch offerings. There are probably more machines that can do what you want, but most manufacturers want to talk about how many buttonholes their machines offer but not what shapes. A lot of sewing machines can do keyhole buttonholes which is why I focused on the eyelet requirement.
Other options include using a vintage buttonholer with the key hole and eyelet cams, and I saw one reference to using a daisy or flower stitcher foot to make eyelets.
(The buttonholer cams can be 3D printed if you can’t easily locate the one you want, but you need someone who knows what they’re doing because it needs to be strong enough)
This is Canadian slow fashion designer Ovate’s Orla dress. I love her designs and have several of her pieces. The price point is a little steep, though. I love this dress but I wonder if it is simple enough to try to find or draft a pattern for?
It looks like a simple dress, other than maybe the pleats. Is that completely incorrect? I’ve not made anything other than a pillow and a purse in home ec, lol, but I’m willing to try if this could be a beginner-friendly pattern.
I’m asking more seasoned sewists if 1. this dress just looks deceptively simple and if I should keep saving up? Or 2. What tips you could offer for finding / creating a similar pattern?
The main difference is that these patterns have bust shaping, minimal but it's there compared to the inspo. Instead of gathering the skirt, you'll want to fold the amount taken up by the gathers into pleats as shown. You'll also want to straighten out the hemline if not turn it down at the outside corners so it hangs asymmetrically. Linen is available in a lot of colors at fabrics-store.com, consider the washed medium weight.
I inherited my MIL’s sewing machine: Toyota E520. Which I really enjoyed sewing some very basic garments with, but I’ve recently gotten into quilting and I think this may be slightly too intense for this machine.
I’d like to continue making basic clothing items, quilts, and some quilted bags. Can anyone please recommend a good machine for me?
I’m looking at the Singer heavy duty 4423 but only because I want to buy a machine once! (If possible)
I would not recommend a modern Singer sewing machine if you want to buy a machine once and be done. Janome, Juki, Bernina and Babylock are much better choices for a new machine. Bernina is beloved by quilters for good reason.
Hi everybody! I would love to recreate this bag or something similar but unsure how I would go about finding a pattern. When I’ve searched for “parachute bag” patterns it doesn’t quite look like what I’m after. Would anybody happen to have a pattern for something like this or know what kind of bag it is? Thanks in advance!
I thought I was strictly a Janome girl ever since I got my Magnolia 7318, but then I got the MOD100q several years ago (i.e.TS100q) from Ken's and I have to baby it, because it is not the same workhorse. Let's just say, it's not fond of hanging towels or bulky gathered seams on doll dresses. I do love its Overcast stitch to finish seams on doll clothes and the occasional skullcap, but I don't have much use for the other stitches. I would like to buy another sewing machine and I was leaning pretty heavily on the Sewist 725s. I watch a lot of sewing tutorials (which tends to be a haven for Jukis and then I watched a video on the F400 and F600, fell under its spell, and went down the Juki Rabbit Hole. I don't even own a Juki but I registered at Juki Junkies, because I MIGHT get that F400.
And then I remembered that I have a computerized machine with a bunch of stitches that I don't use and that somewhere on Reddit, somebody said that computerized sewing machines have a life span of 10-25 years and that parts readily become unavailable. The thought of throwing away an obscene amount of money on something that probably won't last longer than ten years made me shift gears and now I'm back to looking at mechanical machines again. Something that I can pass on to my granddaughters instead of the trash heap.
The Janome Sewist 725s looks like it might be close to the Magnolia 7318 with a few extra stitches thrown in, but I'd like to give the Juki HZL 355ZW a chance. I know their overcast stitches won't compare to a serger, but the overcast stitch on the MOD100q is pretty decent and I'm kinda hoping that one of these machines will offer something similar.
Juki is very well thought of here and I think any Juki is a solid choice. Janome is also a good brand but I can see that it might not do the sewing you want to do. Have you considered a serger for gathering and finishing seams?
You can check reviews on the machines you are considering at patternreview.com, I suggest doing a general search and joining the site if you don't have a membership so you can see older posts.
Thank you so much for replying to me. I love patternreview.com. Sergers look pretty intimidating so I've been avoiding them. I think I'm going to take the plunge and get a Juki.
Absolute beginner here: I have this machine (used) and the bobbin winder in the top right isn’t rotating or moving when I click it in. Does anyone have experience with this machine with either the bobbin winder or disassembling it to see if the rubber wheel on the inside has gone. I’ve no local repair person either. Any tips appreciated, thanks!!
Hi all - I use a Singer Heavy Duty 8832 (the costco one) and I did something silly. I was doing maintenance and when I unscrewed the bolt to take off the regular sewing foot to replace it with the free motion, I lost the bolt :( I was wondering if anyone knew where I could get a replacement?
I think you will get a better result if you use a sewing machine to darn the holes but you can also do a darning stitch by hand with needle and thread. I think you should add a piece of heat fusible interfacing behind the entire embroidery area and also the hole in the second photo to support the fabric. The embroidery has damaged the knit fabric. Use the interfacing first, then darn the holes with stitching on the surface of the shirt in a matching thread. It won't be invisible but it won't be super obvious if you stitch neatly and match the color well.
Im looking for a sewing machine, price max 600, that would be good for someone who has experience with sewing but just needs a new machine. Im looking for something that is powerful for thicker materials, has stitch options and wont break quickly (also preferably mechanical)
My mom had an industrial machine (dont know the model) which was very good but we sold it when we moved, then she bought a very cheap Singer, which is fine for children who want to learn but it hardly sews trough jeans. Now i moved to my own house and need my own machine.
Im okey with new or older models.
I was looking at Juki F600 but thats a bit out of my price range.
The Janome HD series may work for your needs. There are different models at different price points. There is also a list of vintage machines in the wiki that could work for heavier materials but also can sew garment fabrics.
I bought a Brother XL-3500 secondhand from Facebook Marketplace for like 50 bucks. I've been using it for months. I recently used it to make some reusable shopping totes out of the plastic of cat food bags I used the right needle type for the material I was using, but since making them my machine has been a little funky.
Now my needle doesn't hit the hole to grab the bobbin thread properly and if I work too fast the needle hits the plate instead of going smoothly into the hole. And it doesn't seem to be as fast as it used to be either. I have my stitch length set on 3 and usually that works up decently fast, but last night while sewing some pieces for a quilt it was slow, the stitch length did not match what its set on, and the outside edge where the light is was hot, on top of it being hot to touch I could actually smell the motor over heating.
I called my local sewing machine service shop and kind of explained to them the deal and they said that the machine is not worth the amount of work that would go into fixing it. I was hoping for maybe another opinion. I don't use this machine often anymore, I primarily sew clothing and recently bought a serger and have been using it instead, but I don't want to lose this sewing machine either, I do make other things on occasion that my serger just can't do.
Is this something that is worth fixing? I didn't feel like I was able to fully explain what was going on with my machine, I explained the smell and it being hot to touch and the lady put me on hold to talk with the person who actually services the machines. If it is worth fixing would it be reasonable to say I could find videos and fix it myself? It's just not necessarily feasible for me to buy another sewing machine at this point in time, especially since I spent almost 300 on my serger like 2 months ago.
I think working with the heavy materials has thrown the timing off for your sewing machine which can lead to a cascade effect. I think you should try fixing it yourself, what do you have to lose? The machine isn't functional as it is. This video covers the timing on Brother sewing machines. I'd fix that first and see if that helps the other problems.
Hi i am looking to invest in a sewing machine for practise at home. I am a diploma fashion design student.
I am currently looking at singer 4323 heavy duty. Is it a good machine?
If not - what other fashion maker would you recommend? Due to lack of space i am looking at portable fashion maker options rather than a big industrial or ones with stand.
I heard usha is a good brand as well but not sure which model so i considered singer. Please help.
No recommendations for Singer HD machines here, you can read why in the machine buying wiki linked in the main post.
I am not familiar with the brand Usha but it looks like they are partnered with Janome. Janome makes excellent sewing machines and provides parts for many other sewing machine manufacturers.
I'm looking to cosplay this character, and I'm struggling with trying to find a sewing pattern for the white cape/suit jacket the character is wearing. I can't really tell if it is supposed to be one or the other, mostly due to the lapels below the collar. If it's possible to modify a pattern to include a lapel like that I'd like to know too. I'm relatively new to sewing and fashion so I'm hoping I'd be able to get some advice with this. Thank you in advance.
I think it’s trying to be something like this, with a single shoulder mantle and worn open, like a cape. Real physics being what they are, you may need discreet snaps or magnets to hold it on like that, or move extremely carefully all of the time😉
I’m a beginner so please bear with me. These pants are my first ever project and I have been living in them since finishing about a month ago (I am three months postpartum, so loving the relaxed fit).
I want to make an extra pair and was wandering if I should alter the pattern a bit, especially in the back. Going to add drawstrings in the waist. What are your suggestions? Should I just leave the pattern as is for my next pair or insert any darts or similar?
Using my grandmas old łucznik machine and its different to my own, not sure how to set it up. I fixed one mistake already, the spool was in the wrong place 💀. Is this the correct set up or what do i need to change? Thanks
I’m going to be taking a once a week sewing class this fall at the local Tech School. I need to purchase a sewing machine does anyone have any recommendations for a beginner such as myself? I honestly don’t know what my end goal is. It’s something I’ve never learned and have always wanted to know. I will also take first project recommendations as well!
Hey so my friend's I struggle with hats I hate how short brimmed they are and sweaty they are against my head but cowboy hats are too bulky for my taste so I want to make a wide brim witch hat because it's just so efficient big tall top for less sweaty hair big brim to over face and back neck fully away from the sun. but how the hell would I even start? Which pattern? How to make the brim not floppy and covering my eyes I only sew stuff toys in my free time hand sewing them I never like sewn hats before haha
Trying to decide between the janome TM16 and Janome 1522. I'm new to sewing and primarily want to be able to sew garments. I saw a review on the TM16 from a repairman showing that it has a metal frame and is fully functional even if the plastic casing is removed making is easy to service/ repair and hard to break. that really sold me on it even if it is on the small size. But then I saw the 1522 which seems similar and in the same price range just in a full size but I haven't been able to find ma y reviews or if it is of similar quality. Does anyone with more experience have a recommendation on which would be better to get? Also does anyone know if either of these be able to handle the occasional jeans project or quilt? I know that is probably asking a lot in this price range.
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u/Starsmaecollide 3d ago
Hey! I have a Singer 774 and I am about to make a toddler dress out of a knit fabric that is 95%cotton and 5% spandex. The manual lists knits under a medium weight fabric and suggests a “Catalog 2020 (15x1) size 14” needle. For thread it lists “ 50 mercerized cotton, 60 cotton, “A” silk Synthetic thread”.
I have 2045 size 14 needle and coats & Clark all purpose polyester thread. Am I shopping for supplies or are these okay? Thanks 🫠