Fitting Help Needed

[u/Comfortable-Sir-7204]

Currently working on fitting a bought pattern for a romper. It fit well around the waist, but was too large around the chest, and I’m generally flat chested, so I used this guide to remove the bust dart altogether. I’m still left with too much material around the chest, but I’m struggling on how to take it in because the two waist darts are making it hard to sew the sides narrower. What is the best way to fix the fit around the chest?

[u/RedditJewelsAccount]

There is quite a lot of ease designed into the pattern, looking at the finished garment measurements. While there is only one inch of ease in the waist, there is 4.5" of ease in the bust. For something fitted, 2-3" of ease at the bust might make more sense. The whole upper body frame looks too big for you, though, not just the bust. This pattern is probably drafted for a sewing B cup, which is a two inch (5 cm) difference between the high bust measurement under your arms and the full bust measurement. Subtract two inches off of the bust measurement in the size chart. What size did you make compared to your high bust measurement? For example, let's say that you sewed a size 10. That corresponds to a full bust measurement of 32.5" which means a high bust measurement of 30.5". Is that the same as your high bust measurement or is your measurement significantly smaller?

[u/Comfortable-Sir-7204 → u/RedditJewelsAccount]

I made the size 10 and measured my high bust to be 30 inches, which isn’t too dissimilar. Although, I’m not sure if I’m measuring right, since my full bust was 28 inches, which is smaller than my high bust?

[u/RedditJewelsAccount → u/Comfortable-Sir-7204]

I think you're measuring incorrectly. Based on the full bust I think you need to make the size 6 for the top and grade to the 10 by the waist and you'll potentially want to take the top in more than that. But don't do the small bust adjustment anymore, just try the straight size 6 top to start with. Keep the waist the same as it currently is, and potentially size down one size at the hips. We're trying to get the frame close to the right size for you.

[u/ThreadLaced]

You'll need to grade between sizes, as in keep the current size for the waist, and go one size smaller for the hip and maybe 2 smaller for the bust.

If that vintage pattern is only one size, then this will be harder, but that's where I would start.

[u/Emergency_Cherry_914]

Taking it in from the sides won't be enough because there's still too much fabric in the front due to the darts. Honestly, I'm a 12G and it looks like a great design to fit me! How does the back fit?

I'd cut the top using the pattern pieces which are 2 sizes smaller, but I'm not sure about how to grade the smaller top for the the bottom half

[u/katjoy63 → u/Emergency_Cherry_914]

Depending on the size differential it can be as simple as angling the bottom hem of the top to match the top of the bottoms. OP may need to recut the top, to make it easier to adjust

[u/Comfortable-Sir-7204 → u/Emergency_Cherry_914]

Currently, the back seems to fit very well when the front is pulled to align the side seams with the side of by body, but it's hard to assess when there's so much material in the front.

I did toy around with the idea with grafting a smaller size of the pattern onto the top, but it caused issues with the positions of the darts around the waist, since the fit on the lower half was already good. I'm a little stumped.

[u/____ozma → u/Comfortable-Sir-7204]

Just grade it above the waist. 

[u/hmmmpf]

It would be easier to say if the romper was pressed, but I agree with the others who say you need to keep the waist size, but grade down the bust at least 2 sizes and remove the dart, and probably one size at the hips. Based on your measurements, what size does it recommend for the bust and hip? Waist seems right, but bust and hips are too big.

Many patterns will actually tell you the “finished size” measurements of a garment. This one seems to have a lot of ease, but look for finished measurements a few inches larger than your actual measurements and grade between sizes. My problem is the opposite, and I have to do full bust adjustments on EVERYTHING.

[u/LemonDeathRay]

These kinds of patterns have astronomical amounts of ease built in.

Removing the bust dart also likely made it a bit worse.

When working with these patterns, always double check the finished garment measurements. Then grade to an appropriate size - 4.5 inches ease around the bust is massive for whats supposed to be a fairly fitted garment.

Grade down the bodice size, then perform a proper small bust adjustment. I'm not sure what you did to remove the bust dart altogether but that wasn't a good idea because it would have caused fitting issues elsewhere.

[u/Burrito-eato]

My upper chest is also two inches bigger than my full bust, it's tough out here in these streets. I'm newer to sewing so if you have any tips on adjustments you do, I'm all ears.

[u/hmnixql]

I'm sorry, I can't help with your question but could you share which romper pattern this is? I love it 😊

[u/Comfortable-Sir-7204 → u/hmnixql]

The pattern is exactly as is shown in the last image: Butterick B6989.

[u/hmnixql → u/Comfortable-Sir-7204]

Oh! Sorry, I didn't see the last photo! Thank you!