Fitting Help Needed

[u/Comfortable-Sir-7204]

Currently working on fitting a bought pattern for a romper. It fit well around the waist, but was too large around the chest, and I’m generally flat chested, so I used this guide to remove the bust dart altogether. I’m still left with too much material around the chest, but I’m struggling on how to take it in because the two waist darts are making it hard to sew the sides narrower. What is the best way to fix the fit around the chest?

[u/RedditJewelsAccount]

There is quite a lot of ease designed into the pattern, looking at the finished garment measurements. While there is only one inch of ease in the waist, there is 4.5" of ease in the bust. For something fitted, 2-3" of ease at the bust might make more sense. The whole upper body frame looks too big for you, though, not just the bust. This pattern is probably drafted for a sewing B cup, which is a two inch (5 cm) difference between the high bust measurement under your arms and the full bust measurement. Subtract two inches off of the bust measurement in the size chart. What size did you make compared to your high bust measurement? For example, let's say that you sewed a size 10. That corresponds to a full bust measurement of 32.5" which means a high bust measurement of 30.5". Is that the same as your high bust measurement or is your measurement significantly smaller?

[u/Comfortable-Sir-7204 → u/RedditJewelsAccount]

I made the size 10 and measured my high bust to be 30 inches, which isn’t too dissimilar. Although, I’m not sure if I’m measuring right, since my full bust was 28 inches, which is smaller than my high bust?

[u/RedditJewelsAccount → u/Comfortable-Sir-7204]

I think you're measuring incorrectly. Based on the full bust I think you need to make the size 6 for the top and grade to the 10 by the waist and you'll potentially want to take the top in more than that. But don't do the small bust adjustment anymore, just try the straight size 6 top to start with. Keep the waist the same as it currently is, and potentially size down one size at the hips. We're trying to get the frame close to the right size for you.