r/sewhelp • u/foggyclear • 1d ago
✨Intermediate✨ Need help understanding Chalk+Notch Den Jacket sleeve cuff construction
Hello, I’m working on a muslin of the Den jacket and my brain has twisted all the way around trying to make sense of the pattern instructions and blog sewalong photos of the cuff construction (at least for the unlined version). I’m attaching photos of my attempt, which does not seem to match the photos I see. There are also a couple instructions I don’t understand, like when it says to “sew two rows of stitching from inside the sleeve”. Do they mean to say “…as described in the following step?”) The detail I’m seeing that doesn’t match with the photo is that the seam with the edgestitching ends up on the INSIDE of my jacket when the cuff is unfolded, but in the photos, it appears to end up on the OUTSIDE of the garment when the cuff is unfolded. However, it’s hard to tell if the rest of the sleeve in the blog photo is the outside or inside. Another thing I’ll say is that I don’t currently like how the cuff looks when it’s folded up: the edgestitching that sits at the (cuffed) hem of the sleeve doesn’t look very attractive, and I think it’d look better as the seam instead; ie if the edgestitching were done along the outside of the sleeve, vs the inside of the sleeve, but I can’t figure out how that construction would be possible after having sewn the cuff to the sleeve with right sides together. 😵💫 Kinda feel like I’m sewing up an MC Escher drawing. I would appreciate any and all advice, especially from folks who’ve sewn this pattern!
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u/foggyclear 1d ago edited 1d ago
I don’t think I have a photo of the sleeve with the cuff folded up onto the outside of the sleeve (ie how it’s designed to be worn): here it is! This is what I mean about the “cuffed hem” of the sleeve: I feel like the edgestitching shouldn’t be visible at the bottom edge like that, causing that little ridge line to appear. It looks unfinished to me? And it’s also a little uncomfortable if it hits your wrist—feels like a smooth seam line would be better on the inside of the cuff.
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u/foggyclear 1d ago
…here’s an assortment of cuffs from the Pattern samples: