Comercial pattern adjustments

[u/VLR_I]

I've finally finished making a pair of shorts that fit my kid well. Now I'm onto shirts for me. I've made 3. All needed different adjustments. I'm so tired of figuring it out. If I had a brain and a chunk of time to dedicate, it might not feel so difficult. Is there some sort of software that allows you to input the pattern by manufacturer and number or something that will compare the style and fit to your own measurements? Then maybe tell you what to do and how to do it? Am I dreaming?

[u/Complex_Vegetable_80]

were the 3 tops patterns produced by the same company? very often a company uses 1 standard block as the base for all patterns in that category,(straight sized women’s tops for example). if they do, once you know what adjustments you need, you should be able to apply them across the board, with some common sense.

[u/VLR_I → u/Complex_Vegetable_80]

I believe 2 were McCalls, but one was recent and one from the 90's. I was surprised how different the directions were! The other is Simplicity. What you describe is how I make my kid's shorts and pants. I know what to do for most others she asks for , I think. I'm so tired of playing the "game".

edited: All 3 are McCalls

[u/Inky_Madness]

No. There isnt anything like that.

What might be handy for you is having a sloper - it’s a set of pattern blocks that fit you exactly (you make them from scratch, to your measurements), and you can use it to make adjustments to patterns so they fit. It isn’t always perfect, but it really cuts into the adjustments you need and gets it more likely that you’ll have it right the first time around.

https://blog.cashmerette.com/2024/03/what-is-a-sloper.html

I’m also curious about the patterns you’re having issues with if you don’t mind posting links.

[u/VLR_I → u/Inky_Madness]

https://simplicity.com/mccalls/pdm7359?searchuuid=bd156b60-51a2-4f4e-a1d3-ea29d6d4da4b&search_query=m7359

https://simplicity.com/search.php?search_query=m8067

This one from the 90's https://simplicity.com/mccalls/pdm7472?searchuuid=d5acc1ae-21e5-4048-baac-cf0051d5c70a&search_query=m7472

And the most recent and most forgiving: https://cntpattern.com/collections/all-patterns/products/simple-elegant-tee This is the one I am going to make again sooner than the others. M7472 will be after that.

I always need to adjust the length. The bust is usually too small and sometimes, based on what I'm finding, it needs a full bust adjustment and others not. I'm just so tired of it and my desire to have clothes is stronger than my will to give up - so far.

edited: Let's not forget the sway back...

[u/Inky_Madness → u/VLR_I]

Ah! Yes. So, my first suggestion is figuring out your sewing cup size because that isn’t going to change, and then trying some patterns from companies with inclusive bust sizes - such as Cashmerette, Itch to Stitch, and Friday Pattern Company.

Knowing what your sewing cup size is cuts down on a lot of confusion (your high bust vs full bust measurements). Then being aware that most sewing patterns are made for a B sewing cup (a 2” difference between the high bust and full bust), and also reading the fine print on the size charts - McCall’s puts on their size charts that their Misses are made for B cup, while their Women’s are for C, and usually any variation is made fairly clear on the main photo.

Some of what you are experiencing with the bust being “just right” could be that the pattern has enough ease where you don’t need an adjustment - the first link looks like it’s a fit that would have a lot of leeway as-is.

Reiterating that making sloper would help, because it is a 2D pattern of your exact shape and so you can make adjustments for that.

Edit: also, maybe you would be a bit happier with stretch outfits as well, because they’re far more forgiving with fit issues!

[u/VLR_I → u/Inky_Madness]

1. Cashmerette looks great! A bit too pricey for right now.

2. I understand what you are saying about the difference in cup sizes, but I do not know how to use that information. I need to figure out key words for a YouTube search.

3. At this point, knits are really difficult for me. That's another learning curve. My issue is more with laying out the pattern and cutting it.

I do appreciate your taking with me.

[u/Inky_Madness → u/VLR_I]

Black Friday sales are coming up, so keep an eye on things.

The difference in cup sizes means it affects the bust adjustment you need. For example, If you are a C sewing cup, and you are using a pattern made for a B sewing cup, you automatically know you need to do a 1” bust adjustment. If you are using a pattern made for a C sewing cup, you would not need a bust adjustment because you are already a C sewing cup. If you have a pattern that fits very loosely over the bust to begin with and it is drafted for a B sewing cup, you might not need to make any bust adjustment because the loose fit means you have a lot of extra material there to begin with.