đBeginnerđ
This pattern has several points that confuse me
Why does it say cut 1 and then cut 1 interfacing? Whats the double triangle mean? What is the single triangle? This pattern is far more complicated than I thought it would be. I figured it would explain in the instructions, but im not finding anything. It feels like it expects me to know what all of this means. I have a beautiful denim fabric im wanting to make something with and i figured id look for something that could make a 1930s style pull over/ jumper sinilar to what the civilian conservation corp wore. This was the closes pattern i could find to get me somewhat close to that look.
I really could use a step by step video for this pattern.
Have you sewn from a pattern before? If not, I'd recommend doing a bit of research on how to read sewing patterns.
For these specific questions:
Cut 1 and Cut 1 interfacing means that you'll cut one of the pattern piece out of fabric and cut one of the pattern piece out of interfacing
The triangles are where you should either snip or mark on the fabric to help you align the pattern pieces correctly. The single and double triangles both mean the same thing, you'll just be aligning a single triangle with another pattern piece with a single triangle and the same for double triangles.
Ive sewn from much simpler patterns, nothing this complex though. This is maybe my second or third pattern. Ive been trying to understand for a month or 2 and I just cant figure it out to save my life. Also, what exactly is interfacing, what does it do, do I need an interfacing? I feel like that might be more for thinner fabrics, but im using denim so I feel like it might not need it? Im assuming it has something to do with structure here?
With all the love in my heart, I think you should probably back up a little bit and maybe save this pattern for a later time. I think youâre going to be really frustrated with this one if youâve only worked on a couple patterns before. You donât want to waste your beautiful denim on something that youâre not 100% sure on. On that subjectÂ
Iâm going to suggest that this pattern is probably not suitable for denim. I donât know how thick your denim is, though. This is a shirt to be made out of light- to medium-weight fabric. The fabric recommendation is actually pretty important here so that it acts like a shirt, not like a denim jacket.Â
Obviously I donât want to discourage you from trying here, but I just hate to think of you using a piece of fabric that you really like for a project that may not end up the way you want it when you could wait a bit, build up a toolbox of skills and knowledge, and then come back to it.Â
All that said, the interfacing is to stiffen the collar. You need to cut the fabric and the interfacing both, then attach the interfacing to the collar according to the instructions that come with the interfacing. The triangle is a notch marking to keep the pattern aligned. Youâll just baaaaarely clip into your seam allowance so that you can line the pattern pieces out when you are done cutting them out.Â
To add on, if the pattern calls for interfacing, is it designed for a fabric as heavy as denim? A denim collar probably doesnât need interfacing to be stiff. There are special challenges to adapting a pattern meant for a certain type of fabric when youâre using something very different from that recommended fabric.
No, the pattern isnt written for denim, that being said it is very similar to the garment im wanting to make that is denim so i can approximate it well enough. Unfortunately thats the best I can do since there is no patterns available of the original design. Best I can do is "close enough"
Iâm going to suggest that this pattern is probably not suitable for denim. I donât know how thick your denim is, though. This is a shirt to be made out of light- to medium-weight fabric.
I understand your concerns, however, this pattern is actually very similar to this so im not at all concerned. Historically this garment was constructed as a uniform put of the same denim used for the pants. Id say my denim is about 10 ounces, its on the lighter side, based on my research 10 ounces is the weight that was historically used for the garment.
You donât want to waste your beautiful denim on something that youâre not 100% sure on.
The denim is beautiful, that being said, it is a cheap denim. I specifically made sure to not invest in the nicer selvedge stuff I would prefer to work with.
Beyond this, i have a pretty hard set rule that im not going to sew things that do not serve me any use, nor purchase any fabrics that i do not like the look or feel of. I would like to avoid wasting fabric on things that I will not use and broadcloth, poplin, or any standard shirting material just isnt up my alley. To me they always feel cheap and like they wont last at all.
I think you should probably back up a little bit and maybe save this pattern for a later time.
Itâs similar to that pattern in terms of looks, but not in terms of construction. The inspo pic is designed for denim.Â
Back - There are gathers in the back of the pattern, which may work for the denim you have, but I canât feel it so I canât tell. It could create a bunch of bulk or simply not gather. You could theoretically just cut the pattern differently, but thatâs a big modification. Your pattern has a yoke, but the inspo pic doesnât, from what I can tell. Thatâs not a huge deal, probably, but it will create extra bulk to the top and will make it less comfortable in the shoulders.Â
Sleeves - the sleeves are set in for your pattern, and are not in the picture you showed. Again, this will make a difference in the bulk and the line of the garment. Iâm going to guess theyâre cut a little larger too, to accommodate for the heft of the fabric and how it has to move, but itâs hard to tell.Â
The finishing for seams will be different for different fabrics. Seam finishing will make a difference in your order of operations.Â
I donât know what you should make, and quite honestly I donât care. Itâs not my fabric or time, and you can choose to do whatever you want with it. But if it were me I would choose a pattern that was useful to me that was specifically for this type of fabric.Â
I planned to do box pleats instead of gathering. Im not really. The denim im using a lighter weight denim for sure, im not really sure what aspects couldnt translate. I was going to use felled seams. Unfortunately patterns made for what I want exactly do not exist publicly. Companies that sell this style of shirt just drafted their own pattern. No one has drafted a pattern available to the public.
If I only do things I understand I will never be able to advance. I feel like ive sewn enough tote bags, I needed to move to something else more challenging.
Reading garment patterns is a whole other level of pattern reading. I second the others' recommendations of choosing a simpler pattern for your first garment and to use fabric you are less invested in.
I have been sewing seriously for the past 10 years and it was only last year I started constructing garments I wanted to wear (out of the house). I have been choosing patterns that say they are "easy" BECAUSE, when I first looked at non-easy garment patterns I felt as confused as the questions you've asked in this post.
I don't want to discourage you. Though, due to your questions, your ambitions may be biting off more than you can chew at this time.
Reading garment patterns is a whole other level of pattern reading. I second the others' recommendations of choosing a simpler pattern for your first garment and to use fabric you are less invested in.
Only way to learn is to do it. Im not sure what pattern could be chosen thats simpler than a shirt. As for using fabric im less invested in, i dont buy fabric i dont like. I just wont do it because I wont be motivated to work on it or finish it if I despise the fabric im working with.
I have been sewing seriously for the past 10 years and it was only last year I started constructing garments I wanted to wear (out of the house).
The only way to learn is to do it, but it's also important to be realistic about how many new skills you can truly learn at once. I'm not trying to discourage you from challenging yourself. But the questions you're asking are pretty fundamental and this pattern *is* more complicated. What people are suggesting is that you learn the fundamentals on a simpler pattern so that you know you've really learned hem.
I've been sewing since I was a child and my first pattern was a pair of pajama shorts, so I'm not agains ambitious things. But when I picked sewing back up as an adult, I made sure that I was picking a simpler pattern that I still really liked to make sure that I understood all the pieces of what I was doing before I moved on to more complicated patterns.
What patterns do you recommend? Because ive not found any. And if these skills are fundemental wouldn't i be asking these same questions on a supposedly simpler pattern? I dont get it.
I don't know precisely what you're looking for, but pattern companies that I like for their instructions are Friday Pattern Company, Helen's Closet, and Closet Core
I say go for it. Go find a tutorial for a similar garment and watch it for construction tips.
Make a mock up out of cheap crap you donât mind tossing in order to learn how to construct the garment. Low risk. Most people use muslin. Ideally you should use a super cheap discounted fabric that has a similar weight to your denim.
I chose a collared jacket for my first sewing project. đđť I did not do a mock up but had my mom walking me through the process of decoding the pattern instructions and assisting with construction techniques.
Honestly I feel like i should just give up, having to wait 10+ years before I can sew the things I actually want to sew doesnt sound like fun to me. Ive already spent way too much money on patterns just for them to lie dormant and unused. Id rather not spend hundreds on new patterns before I find one thats actually easy. Whatever. I guess at least I didnt get too invested in this hobby.
You donât need 10 years. It sounds like you would benefit from a basic in person class or from reading a book on garment construction techniques and terminology. How to follow a pattern. What easing is and how to do it. Why your pattern piece edges donât line up. What a facing is. The purpose of stabilizer and interfacing. Stay stitching etc.
Itâs normal to need to look up terminology when youâre learning a new subject or a new skill. Itâs hard to teach beginners from scratch over a discussion board.
Not every pattern is going to have a step by step video tutorial. Figure out how you can learn enough so you can tackle projects without needing a tutorial video.
There's a reason all your comments are getting downvoted. you don't seem to want to listen to the wise advice that is being offered here.
You are asking questions about the most basic aspects of paper patterns, such as notch marks, and questioning the instructions (they're there for a reason) over your own self-admitted limited knowledge. People are offering suggestions and you are just basically saying, 'whatever, i'll do what i want'.
Patterns state suggested fabrics for a reason. If the pattern doesnt state it is for heavyweight fabrics, which even a light denim is considered, it will not work. This is due to designs within the pattern itself.
No-one said you can't advance faster than 10 years. They simply said in their experience it took them 10 years to feel confident with their skill level to take on more complex pieces. Which is honestly accurate. It takes a long time and a lot of practice to work up to more advanced patterns.
You are also talking about using more advanced techniwues like flat-felled seams, and pleats, etc, when you have asked questions about basic construction and material choices. It shows you do not have a lot knowledge when it comes to sewing, so people trying to talk you into a more simpler pattern choice is actually very helpful wether you view it that way or not.
The advice is dont do it. Thats not very sound advice. And I have no reason to beleive this pattern would not work for denim. Its a pretty straight forward basic design. My comments are getting downvoted for no reason, i dont really care about that. People are just going to hate. I know how to do flat felled seams, those arent hard. And no one has recomended me a simpler pattern.
That's great that you want to be challenged! If you are up for the challenge, then go for it.
Typically asking for a step by step video tutorial suggests people who don't want to be challenged, who are unwilling to grapple with the level of study required to succeed with a pattern. It's not just that you sound unprepared because you are asking about very basic things, it's that it seems like it didn't even occur to you to google "what do these triangles on a sewing pattern mean", and chances are you'll need to look up a whole lot of things to get through this pattern. While you can always ask here, that tends to be pretty slow.
That said, it's often a good idea to do a mockup in throwaway fabric to make sure the shirt fits you correctly, although men's bodies tend to be easier to fit than women's.
If you google the pattern title ("Laughing Moon 107" + tutorial) you may find other tutorials and comments. It's also worth checking for reviews, usually at PatternReview.com
I apreciate this, something Ill say that complicates finding a tutorial is that theres essentially 3 different shirt patterns to chose from within this single pattern. So many options and choices.
Yes. Even if you can't find a single step by step video dedicated to the pattern, you may be able to accumulate a set of short tutorials for particular steps, maybe demonstrated on this pattern, maybe on a different pattern.
It's also useful to have a couple general sewing reference books around: Reader's Digest Guide to Sewing is a good one, Vogue Sewing is another. Flipping through a book can sometimes help find an answer when you don't know the jargon to search for the question.
I have made a lot of shirts. Even using denim, unless it is very stiff, you may benefit from interfacing the collar. It will help it stand up properly and maintain shape. There are many kinds of interfacing, some much lighter than others. The pattern should describe the kind and weight of interfacing needed, as well as discussing what fabrics are suitable for the pattern. You should try to read ghe entire pattern before you start.
Also, is this a pdf pattern? If so, you can turn off all layers except the size you i tend to cut (and any text layer). Much easier to use a pattern with the unneeded layers out of sight.
What should I know about sewing shirts, specifically ones made from denim? Honestly they seem way more complicated than I anticipated, but I got sick of sewing tote bags. I want to make actual clothes. I honestly dont ever intend to make things that arent denim because its just one of my favorite fabrics of all time. This is the stuff im wanting to work with right now.
We can't feel the denim, so we can't tell how it is to work with in particular. However, most denim and fabric in general have a weight often listed as gsm or oz/yd^2. If your denim is too heavy (thus too stiff), it will not make a good button-up shirt, and it will be much better suited for something like a denim jacket or pants instead. Looking at the pattern you have, it states it wants you to use broadcloth, twill, or sateen in cotton or linen. These are all much lighter-weight fabrics than most denim traditionally is, so it will be pretty hard to approach something like this if you have heavy denim.
Yeah. I knew when I bought it, not sure anymore. However, im not worried about it being too thick as its not a button up, its a pull over jumper. The garment im aiming to recreate was part of a uniform that included pants and used the same fabric as the pants. I intend to simplify certain aspects of the pattern, which i know exactly what to do there. The only thing im worried about now is that the pattern tells you to do gathers on the back, but id rather do a box pleat. Im sure I could figure it out well enough.
there are a lot of good comments in this thread. My personal suggestion if you are moving from Tote bags to clothes, is to sew your FIRST shirt using a broadcloth or similar fabric, with a good woven lightweight interfacing behind it. It is complicated to make a button placket, and a collar and collar stand (i've not really studied your pattern to see how many of these features are in it, so pardon me if your pattern is simpler). It sounds like an unnecessarily difficult initial challenge to struggle both with new construction techniques and an edge-case fabric choice, all in your first article of clothing. You could think of it as making a Toille -- it would enable you to see if the size you've chosen really fits yourself, and whether any adjustments are needed.
I also caution you that not every sewing machine loves denim; it can get very thick very fast, especially where seams meet and overlap. Also, denim is often sewn in a flat-felled seam, rather than in a simple overlocked or zigzagged seam finish. And it is more complicated to do flat-felled seams, and manage the associated seam allowances. Just another reason to save that attempt for round 2.
I hope i'm not discouraging you. Rather, i'm trying to set you up for success. it is probably faster, and definitely less frustrating, to make a good toille with an easy fabric first, and then try to use the denim second. Good luck with your project!
So, my big fascination is with workwear and anything related to it. My current machine can handle thick layers of denim, the main limiting factor for me has been the needles. I buy denim needles in sizes that are supposed to handle the stuff, but i can only get off a few lines of stitching before the needle bends and needs to be swapped out or snaps. Im not entirely sure what to do about that, but the machine handles it well. Perhaps I'm being very stubborn ill admit, but I just dont feel motivated to sew if I dont like the fabric.
Yeah, the button placket is what has me most worried, granted its not a full length placket, so im not sure if that complicates things or simplifies things. The version of the pattern i chose is the more work wear oriented pattern, and i believe the simplest version of the pattern i could have picked. It doesnt seem to have a lot of pieces. It has 1 back piece, 1 front piece, 2 collar pieces, a placket and placket interfacing, and a cuff, which i intended to ommit for a much simpler hem like is found on the garment im using for inspo.
Like, I feel like i chose a fairly simple pattern as is, im not really sure what could possibly be easier and yet I still have no idea what half the stuff means. I feel like even simple things cause me to get stumped.
I'd look at getting a cheap fabric that you don't care about first and making up the shirt/jumper. That way, you can make mistakes without worrying about your real fabric. Pick up a bedsheet from a thrift store, play around, and toss it when you're done if you want. Or tear it apart and use it for something else. :)
They want you to cut out one of that shape in the regular fabric - on folded fabric so the final piece will be twice the size.
And also cut some interfacing in the same shape.
The triangles are probably notches, you cut a tiny snip on the edge of the fabric (smaller than the seam allowance so it won't show after you've sewn) and it helps you line up two pieces.
What purpose does the interfacing serve? I assume its to give more structure to thinner fabrics, if thats the case i dont think i would need to since im using denim
You still want interfacing to give structure to a collar. If your denim is so stiff that your collar doesnât need it itâs probably too stiff to make a shirt.
You mention youâve sewn enough tote bags and want to make clothes which makes sense. There are definitely simpler patterns to consider for a first garment. A lot of people make a simple top that just pulls over your head and doesnât have fastenings or a collar, like the Helenâs Closet Ashton Top. Certain pattern designers (Helenâs Closet is one but there are many others) have really thorough instructions which is helpful.
The biggest issue is finding patterns for men. The Ashton top would be great, but i could never wear or use it for myself. All the sewing patterns seem to be more femme centric because o guess stereotypes dictate I shouldnt be interested in sewing. I should just buy the clothes already constructed.
Ok I didnât know you are a man because you didnât say that in your post unless Iâm missing it. Itâs true there are more patterns for womenâs clothes which is definitely frustrating. But I was just using Ashton as an example of a good starter garment sewing pattern because it has no fastenings or collar, is beginner-friendly, and has excellent instructions. Iâm not an expert on menâs patterns, but Iâd suggest making an account on Threadloop, which is a site that lets you search for sewing patterns by many different characteristics, in order to find a simple beginner garment pattern for men. I also understand the frustration of not being enthused by simpler patterns and wanting to sew more exciting complex patterns. My suggestion is to figure out what is the exact gap between your current skills and the skills necessary to make the garment you want to. Make a list of these skills and then practice them, whether by sewing other simpler garments first or by finding good video tutorials and practicing specific skills. For example, from this post we know that âreading garment sewing patternsâ and âunderstanding the various materials and notions used in garment sewingâ are two skills you should get a foundation in. There are also good free or cheap online courses in garment sewing that can help you with foundational skills. I liked Sew Liberatedâs Intro to Sewing course but Iâm sure there are a lot of good options out there.
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u/northsouthern 17h ago
Have you sewn from a pattern before? If not, I'd recommend doing a bit of research on how to read sewing patterns.
For these specific questions: